Brewing Master

Question:

 ColorpHast is a good brand, but the key is that the indicator uses  multiple indicator zones.  In my experience, cheap pH meters break quickly What do you mean by "multiple indicator zones"?  I use ColorpHast – does that have multiple or single indicator zones?   (It looks like a single indicator to me,

but I am not sure what you are talking about).  What brand of pH test strip (paper or plastic

strip) has multiple indicator zones?

The Universal (pH 0-14) and Intermediate (pH 0-6, 5-10 or 7.5-14) range ColorpHast sticks use 3 or 4 little squares of indicator on each stick, each square with a different indicator that changes color at a different pH.  This gives much more accuracy over a wide range than a stick with any one indicator. You evidentally are using one of the Narrow range versions (probably pH 4-7), which use a single indicator to give good results over a limited target range.  Provided your sample is within this range, these sticks work just fine, although I personally prefer the multiple indicator versions. — Dave Whitman             "The opinions expressed are those of the                           They made me say that.  Really.

Response:

 ColorpHast is a good brand, but the key is that the indicator uses  multiple indicator zones.  In my experience, cheap pH meters break quickly

What do you mean by "multiple indicator zones"?  I use ColorpHast – does that have multiple or single indicator zones?   (It looks like a single indicator to me, but I am not sure what you are talking about).  What brand of pH test strip (paper or plastic strip) has multiple indicator zones? —

Response:

I’m wondering what are the best and easiest methods of measuring and adjusting the pH of my all-grain mashes.  Do I adjust the mash and sparge waters or measure the mash and adjust it? And what with? — Sorry, but to get really good with measuring pH, paper will not suffice.  You will need to purchase a good meter.

I’m  going to disagree here. I’m a chemist, with a lot of experience in pH measurement. Unless you’re willing to spend about $300 and calibrate against standard buffers at two different pH’s each brewing session, you’re better off using good multiple-indicator papers or plastic strips. ColorpHast is a good brand, but the key is that the indicator uses multiple indicator zones.  In my experience, cheap pH meters break quickly and give no more accuracy than good papers. As for what to use, if you have a pH above these levels, you should use food grade phosphoric acid.

Phosphoric acid is a good choice.  You can also use lactic acid, which may be cheaper and more readily available. — Dave Whitman             "The opinions expressed are those of the                           They made me say that.  Really.

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I’m wondering what are the best and easiest methods of measuring and adjusting the pH of my all-grain mashes.  Do I adjust the mash and sparge waters or measure the mash and adjust it? And what with? —

Sorry, but to get really good with measuring pH, paper will not suffice.  You will need to purchase a good meter.  Yes, the pH of the mash, sparge, and wort should all be adjusted.  The mash pH should be adjusted to 5.3 as this is necessary for starch conv.  The sparge should be adjusted to 5.7 to avoid extraction of tannins., and the wort should be somewhere inbetween to help with hot break (settling of proteins during the boil).  For more info. buy Dave Millers new homebrewing guide, there is some excellent  information in there in this regard.  As for what to use, if you have a pH above these levels, you should use food grade phosphoric acid.  If you look in the back of a BYO mag, or maybe even Zymurgy, there is a guy named George Hrouda that sells it by mail.  It is expensive due to haz mat shipping charges, but the amount in there will last you forever!  pH (up or down) you can use CaCO3, CaCl2, CaSO4, but it all depends on the style of beer you are brewing.  For instance, a pilsener has almost no ionic content, so you should use only phosphoric acid.  Whereas an india pale ale, you may want to use  CaSO4 to adjust pH because the high sulfate content is appropriate for the style.  Hope this helps…any – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Give Me HomeBrew or Give Me Death Think About That.

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I’m wondering what are the best and easiest methods of measuring and adjusting the pH of my all-grain mashes.  

<snip Dave miller’s Homebrewers Handbook has an entire chapter on water. Its a very practical discussion with easy to use methods to adjust PH properly. After reading it, I went out and purchased the test strips and all the chemicals for raising or lowering ph. The next brew I did, I tested the Mash PH (my well water is about 7.2). The mash was already at 5.3, nearly perfect. Seems I didn’t need any chemicals at all. Hope you have good luck with this. Charley

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Adjust the sparge water with lacto acid, to improve the run off. 1-2 ml per 10 litres is enough. Happy Brewing

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Adjust the sparge water with lacto acid, to improve the run off. 1-2 ml per 10 litres is enough. Happy Brewing

Sorry, but it’s more complex than that.  This all assumes that your pH is to high. Adjusting pH should be done carefully.  Water pH may change seasonally depending on where your water comes from and you may only need adjustment part of the year. Your city water department can help.  You can do a test: use a pH meter or litmus paper to determine your pH.  Incrementally add some lactic acid measuring pH until about 7 is reached.  The amount of acid adjusted to the volume of mash water should be ok.  However, if your brew is lower initial gravity, you should consider adjusting pH of mash AND sparge water. There are books on the topic albiet perhaps complex.  I have been developing a homebrewers guide for non-chemists that may help. George

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I’m wondering what are the best…

The best method is with a good pH meter which is capable of handling the rigors associated with brewing and is therefore expensive. This is not the easiest as the meter must be calibrated at least once per brew day and preferably before each measurement depending on the stability of the electrode …and easiest methods of measuring…

The easiest method is with pH strips but they have their own special problems, especially for color blind brewers like me. …and adjusting the pH of my all-grain mashes.  Do I adjust the mash and sparge waters or measure the mash and adjust it? And what with?

The best way to do this is to adjust the chemistry of the brewing water to match the grist such that the pH comes out in the target range at dough-in. This can get to be involved but several readily available sources give direction on how to do it. Breifly, if mash pH is too high (pale malts/ alkaline water) add gypsum to the water. If mash pH is too low (dark malts/ soft water) add calcium carbonate (chalk) to the water. If you work with small amounts of water (say a quart) and grain (about a pound) until a test mash gives the right pH you can then scale up to the amount of water needed for the full brew length you intend. Less desireable is the addition of chalk or gypsum directly to the mash with the main difficulty being getting these powders evenly mixed into the mash. Even less desireable is the addition of a mineral (hydrochloric, sulfuric, phosphoric) or organic (citric, lactic) acid to the mash to reduce pH. Uniform mixing is again a problem and you have to worry about the flavor effects of the anion. Phosphoric is probably the best in this regard and citric the worst though lactic seems to be the most commonly used. The anion is also a problem with gypsum. Adding gypsum to a Bohemian Pilsner mash will lead to hops harshness totally inappropriate for the style. Calcium chloride is a better choice in this case. Already we are starting to get into the complexities of the business. Poke around on the Net and in advanced brewing books for more detail. AJ

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I’m wondering what are the best and easiest methods of measuring and adjusting the pH of my all-grain mashes.  Do I adjust the mash and sparge waters or measure the mash and adjust it? And what with?

Measuring:  Get some good pH test strips – the ones I use are made by Merck and sold by Brewer’s Resource among others – called "ColorpHast" they go for about $15 for a box of 100.  The el-cheapo ones you buy for $2 or so are worthless. Adjusting:  Use either lactic acid or citric acid for adjusting sparge water; the mash shouldn’t usually need much help since the grains are going to force it pretty close to where you’d want it; have some gypsum and/or calcium carbonate on hand if you need to play with it.  The acids should be available from most any homebrew shop. -Marty

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I’m wondering what are the best and easiest methods of measuring and adjusting the pH of my all-grain mashes.  Do I adjust the mash and sparge waters or measure the mash and adjust it? And what with? — Give Me HomeBrew or Give Me Death Think About That.

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