Brewing Master » Homebrew Beer » Partial Mashing Q's
Partial Mashing Q's
Question:
Hi r.c.b., I’m going to do my first partial mash this weekend, and I’d appreciate any feedback on sparging: I have no lauter tun, rather I was going to use a big strainer/collander and slowly pour 170F water over/through the grains into my kettle. I’ve been worried that this method might not be very efficient compared to more controlled sparging.
I wouldn’t worry about it. On the rare occasions i’ve used extracts, I’ve pseudo-mashed in the brewpot at 160 for an hour in a grain bag, swirled/squeezed the bag every 10-15 minutes, and then poured a gallon of 170 degree water through the bag. The yield was comparable to my regular proecedures. (it seems to me that about 4.5 pounds in 6 gallons yeielded 1.020) — R E HAWKINS
Response:
Hi r.c.b., I’m going to do my first partial mash this weekend, and I’d appreciate any feedback on sparging: I have no lauter tun, rather I was going to use a big strainer/collander and slowly pour 170F water over/through the grains into my kettle. I’ve been worried that this method might not be very efficient compared to more controlled sparging.
When doing partial mashes the above method will work just fine. Don’t Worry. This method was suggested by a very respectable all-grain brewer, who’s unfortunately out of contact for a while. Am I correct in assuming that the use of extracts reduces the mash efficiency required in partial mash brewing?
If I understand the question correctly, I would say no. When doing partials you are substuting part of the extract with the sugar from mashed grains. You are still counting on getting a certain amount of sugar from the mashed & sparged grains. But Don’t Worry, if you don’t get the extract rate you needed just add some more malt extract to make up for the loss. Hope this helps. If beer were *my* business, I’d never be late for work!
– Rocky Mountain Homebrew http://www2.csn.net/~vsabbe/rmh_beer_page.html
Response:
What do you mean? As far as I know this is the best sparge you can hope for! I typically mash 3# grain and use 2-4# DME in my beers. I use a large stainless bowl (sold under the brand name "Barf-Bowl"
) to mash in. I’ll add enough 170 deg water to cover the grains while stirring to eliminate lumps. Then its into the oven set at about 180 with the door cracked open so that the thermo in my mash reads 157 or so. After about 45 min, I close the door and get the mess up to 170 or so. This takes about 15 min. Then I pour through a big pasta collander into my brew pot (if I’m gonna brew right away — into a big tupperware dealie if I’m not). Then I sparge with about 3 or 4 quarts of 170 deg water to get out as much of the good stuff as I can. I don’t know what the efficiency is, but as one homebrewer noted, the test of a good beer is whether it passes through the kidneys on it’s way to the toilet.
Your beers must be pretty full-bodied with such high conversion temps.
Response:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m going to do my first partial mash this weekend, and I’d appreciate any feedback on sparging: I have no lauter tun, rather I was going to use a big strainer/collander and slowly pour 170F water over/through the grains into my kettle. I’ve been worried that this method might not be very efficient compared to more controlled sparging. This method was suggested by a very respectable all-grain brewer, who’s unfortunately out of contact for a while. Am I correct in assuming that the use of extracts reduces the mash efficiency required in partial mash brewing? Or…is this something I should (gasp!) worry about? TIA, and HAHB! nickb
Nick This is what I always do. I also will put a large grain bag on in the collander under the grains to provide extra filtering. I also will pour the first runnings from the mash back through the grains to help filter out husks. You are correct that extract efficiency in not too important for the partial masher. Most of your fermentables are comming from the extract. One thing that works in your favor is that you can sparge with a much larger volume of water relative to the size of the mash. Remember you would get respectable beer if you left the mash out all together. Any thing you get from the mash is a bonus so there is no need to worry. Todd
Response:
: I have no lauter tun, rather I was going to use a big strainer/collander : and slowly pour 170F water over/through the grains into my kettle. I’ve : been worried that this method might not be very efficient compared to : more controlled sparging. Well, it might not be as efficient as more controlled sparging, but this is nothing to worry about. The Bitch Goddess Efficiency really isn’t a thing to fear or be concerned about at all–use a tad more grain at $1.2 a pound.
Hey! I got ripped off! I paid $1.50/# for British 2-row…
BUT…using this very method (collander) I’ve had *higher* yields than I have using a controlled recirculating (RIMS) system by about 8-10%. I siphon the sparge water thru an aluminum tube (3/8" soft natural gas supply line tubing) with a 90 degree bend at the end. On the bottom of the tube, in the section that is horizontal I have a bunch of tiny holes drilled into the(thru) the tube to provide a slow sparge. : This method was suggested by a very respectable all-grain brewer, who’s : unfortunately out of contact for a while. Am I correct in assuming that : the use of extracts reduces the mash efficiency required in partial mash : brewing? Don;t understand this question. The use of extract and mash efficiency seem completely unrelated to me–what are you talking about? So you can get
What I’m concerned about is that I’m afraid the ‘pouring water over the collander’ mehod won’t yield as much as a true lautering system would. Therefore, yes, I know I can make up wort OG by using more extract. Guess I didn’t really have a *question* to be answered, rather I was looking for reassurance–which you’ve given! started here is what I’d suggest: compute your OG based on 30 ppg yield of the partial mash. Have enough extra malt extract (pale) on hand so that if you miss the yield you expect from the partial mash you can make it up at the start of the boil using some pale extract. For a 5 gal batch we’re talking maybe 8-10 oz of extra extract, I’d say!
Thanks for the tips! Ha[o]ppy brewing, nickb — If beer were *my* business, I’d never be late for work!
Response:
Hi r.c.b., I’m going to do my first partial mash this weekend, and I’d appreciate any feedback on sparging: I have no lauter tun, rather I was going to use a big strainer/collander and slowly pour 170F water over/through the grains into my kettle. I’ve been worried that this method might not be very efficient compared to more controlled sparging. This method was suggested by a very respectable all-grain brewer, who’s unfortunately out of contact for a while. Am I correct in assuming that the use of extracts reduces the mash efficiency required in partial mash brewing? Or…is this something I should (gasp!) worry about? TIA, and HAHB! nickb — If beer were *my* business, I’d never be late for work!
Response:
: I have no lauter tun, rather I was going to use a big strainer/collander : and slowly pour 170F water over/through the grains into my kettle. I’ve : been worried that this method might not be very efficient compared to : more controlled sparging. Well, it might not be as efficient as more controlled sparging, but this is nothing to worry about. The Bitch Goddess Efficiency really isn’t a thing to fear or be concerned about at all–use a tad more grain at $1.2 a pound. BUT…using this very method (collander) I’ve had *higher* yields than I have using a controlled recirculating (RIMS) system by about 8-10%. I siphon the sparge water thru an aluminum tube (3/8" soft natural gas supply line tubing) with a 90 degree bend at the end. On the bottom of the tube, in the section that is horizontal I have a bunch of tiny holes drilled into the(thru) the tube to provide a slow sparge. : This method was suggested by a very respectable all-grain brewer, who’s : unfortunately out of contact for a while. Am I correct in assuming that : the use of extracts reduces the mash efficiency required in partial mash : brewing? Don;t understand this question. The use of extract and mash efficiency seem completely unrelated to me–what are you talking about? So you can get started here is what I’d suggest: compute your OG based on 30 ppg yield of the partial mash. Have enough extra malt extract (pale) on hand so that if you miss the yield you expect from the partial mash you can make it up at the start of the boil using some pale extract. For a 5 gal batch we’re talking maybe 8-10 oz of extra extract, I’d say!
Response:
I’m going to do my first partial mash this weekend, and I’d appreciate any feedback on sparging: I have no lauter tun, rather I was going to use a big strainer/collander and slowly pour 170F water over/through the grains into my kettle. I’ve been worried that this method might not be very efficient compared to more controlled sparging.
What do you mean? As far as I know this is the best sparge you can hope for! I typically mash 3# grain and use 2-4# DME in my beers. I use a large stainless bowl (sold under the brand name "Barf-Bowl"
) to mash in. I’ll add enough 170 deg water to cover the grains while stirring to eliminate lumps. Then its into the oven set at about 180 with the door cracked open so that the thermo in my mash reads 157 or so. After about 45 min, I close the door and get the mess up to 170 or so. This takes about 15 min. Then I pour through a big pasta collander into my brew pot (if I’m gonna brew right away — into a big tupperware dealie if I’m not). Then I sparge with about 3 or 4 quarts of 170 deg water to get out as much of the good stuff as I can. I don’t know what the efficiency is, but as one homebrewer noted, the test of a good beer is whether it passes through the kidneys on it’s way to the toilet. Matt — Matt Harmon url=http://www.ps.uci.edu/~harmon