How far up into CT do you consider the "Metro" area? I use and recommend Maltose Express in Monroe, CT, run by the people who wrote "Clone Brews" and "Beer Captured". Nice place, very knowledgeable people, reasonable prices. Kind of a hike from Manhattan. For mail order, I’ve used Hops and Dreams in New Hampshire (hopsanddreams.com) and both morebeer.com and williamsbrewing.com in California. The CA shops are bigger, but the shipping takes longer and costs a bit more. Maltose Express will do mail order as well, but their web site isn’t set up for online purchasing. You have to send them email. Still, they ship fast. — Paul Hayslett

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Hi, I’ve dusted off my brewing supplies (and brains) after about 10 years of inactivity, and am looking for purveyors of equipment, yeast, grains, etc.  Any suggestions for distributors in the Metro NY area? Any good/reputable web retailers or mail order sources?  Please help!

The most local metro NY shop, IIRC, is Hydroponic Garden centers, in Flushing ,Queens. Phil visit the New York City Homebrewers Guild http://www.homebrewersguild.org

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Hi, I’ve dusted off my brewing supplies (and brains) after about 10 years of inactivity, and am looking for purveyors of equipment, yeast, grains, etc.  Any suggestions for distributors in the Metro NY area? Any good/reputable web retailers or mail order sources?  Please help! Cheers! Steve

Where abouts are you?

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There is Kedco in farmingdale. Arbor in Islip and brewgus.com online. Hope this helps – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi, I’ve dusted off my brewing supplies (and brains) after about 10 years of inactivity, and am looking for purveyors of equipment, yeast, grains, etc.  Any suggestions for distributors in the Metro NY area? Any good/reputable web retailers or mail order sources?  Please help! Cheers! Steve

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Thanks for the posts.  I am in Nyack (20 Miles NW of NYC), and work in Manahattan.  Has anyone used Corrado’s? Cheers! Steve – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi, I’ve dusted off my brewing supplies (and brains) after about 10 years of inactivity, and am looking for purveyors of equipment, yeast, grains, etc.  Any suggestions for distributors in the Metro NY area? Any good/reputable web retailers or mail order sources?  Please help! Cheers! Steve Where abouts are you?

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**** Post for FREE via your newsreader at post.usenet.com **** They are more orientated toward wine but do have some beer supplies. From Nyack it shouldn’t be a long ride. I’d say it would be worth the ride for you. I live relatively close to it and do most of my beer shopping online if that tells you anything.

Thanks for the posts.  I am in Nyack (20 Miles NW of NYC), and work in Manahattan.  Has anyone used Corrado’s? Cheers! Steve

Hi, I’ve dusted off my brewing supplies (and brains) after about 10 years of inactivity, and am looking for purveyors of equipment, yeast, grains, etc.  Any suggestions for distributors in the Metro NY area? Any good/reputable web retailers or mail order sources?  Please help! Cheers! Steve Where abouts are you?

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My brother lives in Morristown, NJ (I’m in Merrick, LI) and I’ve used Corrados a lot (they own Clifton now, don’t they?). I remember when they operated out of a dumpy place over on Railroad Avenue- They seem to have a broad range of some things (like 30+ varieties of canned malt extract) but only a few of others (yeast, base grain, etc.). Whatever falls off the truck, I guess. A 25Kg bag of Muntons 2 row pale for about $35 is a good price IMHO. Last time I was in there, I asked about Maris Otter and was told they’d order it for me with a few days notice- it would be the same price as their other bags. bob. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Thanks for the posts.  I am in Nyack (20 Miles NW of NYC), and work in Manahattan.  Has anyone used Corrado’s? Cheers! Steve Hi, I’ve dusted off my brewing supplies (and brains) after about 10 years of inactivity, and am looking for purveyors of equipment, yeast, grains, etc.  Any suggestions for distributors in the Metro NY area? Any good/reputable web retailers or mail order sources? Please help! Cheers! Steve Where abouts are you?

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Little Shop of Hops is out of business.  Yahoo still has an address for them (near my work) but it is no longer there. Corrado’s is a hit or miss proposition:  I’ve been in there when it had all malts and kits but no hops or yeasts.  I’ve been there when they had no kits but they were overflowing with yeast.  It just depends when you go.  Also, I didn’t get the impression that I could ask them for any real help or opinions. Also, if you are in New Jersey, you may want to come join our club: http://www.jerseybrewers.com/ Next meeting is Dec 3.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – There is Kedco in farmingdale. Arbor in Islip and brewgus.com online. Hope this helps Hi, I’ve dusted off my brewing supplies (and brains) after about 10 years of inactivity, and am looking for purveyors of equipment, yeast, grains, etc.  Any suggestions for distributors in the Metro NY area? Any good/reputable web retailers or mail order sources?  Please help! Cheers! Steve

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I work on the upper east side, and was all set to walk to Little Shop of Hops, after I found them on Yahoo.  I’m glad I called before I walked the 40 some-odd blocks to discover they were out of business.

You wouldn’t have liked that place if it was open.  Poor service. High prices.  Poor stock.  And extremely dirty.  The place just went to hell.  I’ve had people who’ve walked by it tell me that the place closed down over a year before it really did. Phil visit the New York City Homebrewers Guild website: http://www.homebrewersguild.org

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Thanks for the posts.  I am in Nyack (20 Miles NW of NYC), and work in Manahattan.  Has anyone used Corrado’s?

If you’re in Nyack, you might want to try Party Creations, in Red Hook, NY.  It’s exit 18 or 19 off the New York State Thruway (the Rhinecliff exit).  Maybe an hour’s drive for you. Phil visit the New York City Homebrewers Guild website: http://www.homebrewersguild.org

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Unfortunately, Farmingdale is a bit too far for me.   I went to Corrado’s on Saturday.  The overall selection was pretty decent, and prices were moderate.  The yeast choices were pretty thin (all White Lab), but I was told that if I call before hand, they can arrange to special order Wyeast. Cheers! Steve – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – There is Kedco in farmingdale. Arbor in Islip and brewgus.com online. Hope this helps Hi, I’ve dusted off my brewing supplies (and brains) after about 10 years of inactivity, and am looking for purveyors of equipment, yeast, grains, etc.  Any suggestions for distributors in the Metro NY area? Any good/reputable web retailers or mail order sources?  Please help! Cheers! Steve

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**** Post for FREE via your newsreader at post.usenet.com **** Great Store! Fast cheap shipping. (PA) https://www.thegrape.net Great selection. Slow expensive shipping. (TX) http://www.stpats.com Great selection. Free but slow shipping (CA) http://www.morebeer.com There are many more but these are the more popular ones.

Bill, Which on-line shops do you use?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – **** Post for FREE via your newsreader at post.usenet.com **** They are more orientated toward wine but do have some beer supplies. From Nyack it shouldn’t be a long ride. I’d say it would be worth the ride for you. I live relatively close to it and do most of my beer shopping online if that tells you anything. Thanks for the posts.  I am in Nyack (20 Miles NW of NYC), and work in Manahattan.  Has anyone used Corrado’s? Cheers! Steve Hi, I’ve dusted off my brewing supplies (and brains) after about 10 years of inactivity, and am looking for purveyors of equipment, yeast, grains, etc.  Any suggestions for distributors in the Metro NY area? Any good/reputable web retailers or mail order sources?  Please help! Cheers! Steve Where abouts are you?  *** Usenet.com – The #1 Usenet Newsgroup Service on The Planet! ***                       http://www.usenet.com Unlimited Download – 19 Seperate Servers – 90,000 groups – Uncensored

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Response:

Hi, I’ve dusted off my brewing supplies (and brains) after about 10 years of inactivity, and am looking for purveyors of equipment, yeast, grains, etc.  Any suggestions for distributors in the Metro NY area? Any good/reputable web retailers or mail order sources?  Please help! Cheers! Steve

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*** post for FREE via your newsreader at post.newsfeed.com *** To me they are more orientated toward wine but do have some beer supplies. From Nyack it shouldn’t be a long ride. I’d say it would be worth the ride for you. I live relatively close to it and do most of my beer shopping online if that tells you anything.

Thanks for the posts.  I am in Nyack (20 Miles NW of NYC), and work in Manahattan.  Has anyone used Corrado’s? Cheers! Steve

Hi, I’ve dusted off my brewing supplies (and brains) after about 10 years of inactivity, and am looking for purveyors of equipment, yeast, grains, etc.  Any suggestions for distributors in the Metro NY area? Any good/reputable web retailers or mail order sources?  Please help! Cheers! Steve Where abouts are you?

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I work on the upper east side, and was all set to walk to Little Shop of Hops, after I found them on Yahoo.  I’m glad I called before I walked the 40 some-odd blocks to discover they were out of business. I’ll check out Corrado’s anyway, and hopefully I’ll be able to find what I need for more than a few batches of brew. Brian from Ruffian brew club told me about the jerseybrewers.  My wife are looking for a home in Sparta, and we’ll probably catch your meetings once we settle in. Cheers! Steve – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Little Shop of Hops is out of business.  Yahoo still has an address for them (near my work) but it is no longer there. Corrado’s is a hit or miss proposition:  I’ve been in there when it had all malts and kits but no hops or yeasts.  I’ve been there when they had no kits but they were overflowing with yeast.  It just depends when you go.  Also, I didn’t get the impression that I could ask them for any real help or opinions. Also, if you are in New Jersey, you may want to come join our club: http://www.jerseybrewers.com/ Next meeting is Dec 3. There is Kedco in farmingdale. Arbor in Islip and brewgus.com online. Hope this helps Hi, I’ve dusted off my brewing supplies (and brains) after about 10 years of inactivity, and am looking for purveyors of equipment, yeast, grains, etc.  Any suggestions for distributors in the Metro NY area? Any good/reputable web retailers or mail order sources?  Please help! Cheers! Steve

Response:

Bill, Which on-line shops do you use? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – **** Post for FREE via your newsreader at post.usenet.com **** They are more orientated toward wine but do have some beer supplies. From Nyack it shouldn’t be a long ride. I’d say it would be worth the ride for you. I live relatively close to it and do most of my beer shopping online if that tells you anything. Thanks for the posts.  I am in Nyack (20 Miles NW of NYC), and work in Manahattan.  Has anyone used Corrado’s? Cheers! Steve Hi, I’ve dusted off my brewing supplies (and brains) after about 10 years of inactivity, and am looking for purveyors of equipment, yeast, grains, etc.  Any suggestions for distributors in the Metro NY area? Any good/reputable web retailers or mail order sources?  Please help! Cheers! Steve Where abouts are you?  *** Usenet.com – The #1 Usenet Newsgroup Service on The Planet! ***                       http://www.usenet.com Unlimited Download – 19 Seperate Servers – 90,000 groups – Uncensored

Response:

….so how come I don’t need to show ID when I buy it off the shelf in the supermarket? — Quasi 227/221/180

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….so how come I don’t need to show ID when I buy it off the shelf in the supermarket?

SHHHHHHHHHHHHHhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh! While you’re at it, check the alcohol rating on the rum and anise flavoring bottles. — Bob Kanyak’s Doghouse http://kanyak.com

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….so how come I don’t need to show ID when I buy it off the shelf in the supermarket?

Because "cooking" wines are really crappy wines that are loaded heavily with salt to make them undrinkable (although they were probably deemed undrinkable before they were loaded with salt). But cooking wines are too crappy to be used in cooking.  I use inexpensive drinking wines for cooking, such as blush/chablis-in-a-box for my generic cooking wine, and some kind of burgundy.  I’ve never used vermouth for cooking, but I do keep some dry sherry and some Marsala for particular dishes. Don’t buy the absolute cheapest wine on the shelf, as you might find some of those tend to taste like vinegar and shoe polish, but stuff like Almaden, Gallo, etc., is what I usually use for cooking wine. People who really *like* wine (I like it in cooking, but not for drinking) usually prefer cooking with somewhat higher priced wines, but my palate for wine isn’t developed enough to tell a difference between a Gallo/Almaden type of wine used in cooking and a $20 bottle of wine used in cooking. —                 "There’s a seeker born every minute."

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Yikes! I used some in the marinade for my chicken breast filets! Maybe it won’t be such an obvious bad taste, huh Jamie? Thanks very much for the answer. You can be sure I will use a different wine from now on. (Actually, I *wanted* to use Sake, but couldn’t find it in my supermarket) — Quasi 227/221/180

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – ….so how come I don’t need to show ID when I buy it off the shelf in the supermarket? Because "cooking" wines are really crappy wines that are loaded heavily with salt to make them undrinkable (although they were probably deemed undrinkable before they were loaded with salt). But cooking wines are too crappy to be used in cooking.  I use inexpensive drinking wines for cooking, such as blush/chablis-in-a-box for my generic cooking wine, and some kind of burgundy.  I’ve never used vermouth for cooking, but I do keep some dry sherry and some Marsala for particular dishes. Don’t buy the absolute cheapest wine on the shelf, as you might find some of those tend to taste like vinegar and shoe polish, but stuff like Almaden, Gallo, etc., is what I usually use for cooking wine. People who really *like* wine (I like it in cooking, but not for drinking) usually prefer cooking with somewhat higher priced wines, but my palate for wine isn’t developed enough to tell a difference between a Gallo/Almaden type of wine used in cooking and a $20 bottle of wine used in cooking. —   "There’s a seeker born every minute."

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – ….so how come I don’t need to show ID when I buy it off the shelf in the supermarket? Because "cooking" wines are really crappy wines that are loaded heavily with salt to make them undrinkable (although they were probably deemed undrinkable before they were loaded with salt). But cooking wines are too crappy to be used in cooking.  I use inexpensive drinking wines for cooking, such as blush/chablis-in-a-box for my generic cooking wine, and some kind of burgundy.  I’ve never used vermouth for cooking, but I do keep some dry sherry and some Marsala for particular dishes. Don’t buy the absolute cheapest wine on the shelf, as you might find some of those tend to taste like vinegar and shoe polish, but stuff like Almaden, Gallo, etc., is what I usually use for cooking wine. People who really *like* wine (I like it in cooking, but not for drinking) usually prefer cooking with somewhat higher priced wines, but my palate for wine isn’t developed enough to tell a difference between a Gallo/Almaden type of wine used in cooking and a $20 bottle of wine used in cooking.

There was an article in the LA Times recently about how red and white wine vinegars are very dependent on the quality of the wine used to make them.  Apparently the store-bought vinegars start with bad wine, and if you make your own wine vinegar by aging a wine you actually like (can be done in a jar left in a dark cupboard) the result is amazingly tasty and will make incredible salad dressings, etc. Didn’t sound very hard, but it’s very slow — weeks before it’s ready.

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called a "vinegar mother" and you can usually get them from a store that sells brewing supplies. Ok. Dean brews beer, so getting to the brew store isn’t a problem. Be careful with homemade. Don’t use it for pickling or other preserving. But is it safe for salad dressing? I am the only one of my group of friends who would even know what a pickling crock looks like, so I think we’re ok there. =)

Safe for dressing. The reason pickling isn’t safe is because you don’t know the exact acid level. That needs to be factored into recipes for pickling so the food is safely pickled. If the acidity is too low, it won’t pickle properly and you’ll get a tummy ache and detonate all over the place. Bob, if you have specific ideas on how I could do this, would you email me off-list? Don’t wanna clog things up here. I’d really appreciate it. Sounds cool.

Let’s keep it onlist because others might be interested in making their own vinegars, too. Vinegars need to start with alcohol and a kind of bacteria called acetobacters. They convert alcohol to acetic acid. Any alcoholic liquid will work. Whiskey isn’t good, though because the alcohol levels are high enough to kill the acetobacters. Very clean container (non-metallic) with a loose-fitting cover. A wooden barrel is traditional, but glass, ceramic or enamel on metal will work. Pour in wine, gently add mother, cover and leave in a cool, dark place for months. It will become what it will become. It may be stronger or weaker than what you’re used to. As you remove vinegar, top it back up with new wine. You’ll be able to taste what’s happening in your barrel. If it tastes more like wine than vinegar, leave it alone for a while. If it’s too acid, add more wine. This is a simple overview. If you want to really get into it, hit the library or do some googling. Pastorio

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Thanks Bob! I really appreciate the info. — Lydia Ash If you can’t be nice, at least have the decency to be vague Posted Via Uncensored-News.Com – Still Only $9.95 – http://www.uncensored-news.com       <<<<<<<   The Worlds Uncensored News Source   <<<<<<<<

Response:

and if you make your own wine vinegar by aging a wine you actually like (can be done in a jar left in a dark cupboard) the result is amazingly tasty and will make incredible salad dressings, etc. Didn’t sound very hard, but it’s very slow — weeks before it’s ready. Do you have a link to the article? This sounds like a great idea for xmas presents–to go with some flavored oil.

It’s a tad more complicated than that. It isn’t simply aging wine. You need an acetobacter colony to convert the alcohol to acetic acid. It’s called a "vinegar mother" and you can usually get them from a store that sells brewing supplies. It works by bacterial action. Store-bought vinegars are usually pasteurized so all the bacteria are killed. They don’t want you to be making your own. Be careful with homemade. Don’t use it for pickling or other preserving. You don’t know what the acidity level is and, as a result, you can’t predict whether it will actually do what’s necessary to keep the food safe. Pastorio

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called a "vinegar mother" and you can usually get them from a store that sells brewing supplies.

Ok. Dean brews beer, so getting to the brew store isn’t a problem. Be careful with homemade. Don’t use it for pickling or other preserving.

But is it safe for salad dressing? I am the only one of my group of friends who would even know what a pickling crock looks like, so I think we’re ok there. =) Bob, if you have specific ideas on how I could do this, would you email me off-list? Don’t wanna clog things up here. I’d really appreciate it. Sounds cool. — Lydia Ash If you can’t be nice, at least have the decency to be vague Posted Via Uncensored-News.Com – Still Only $9.95 – http://www.uncensored-news.com       <<<<<<<   The Worlds Uncensored News Source   <<<<<<<<

Response:

and if you make your own wine vinegar by aging a wine you actually like (can be done in a jar left in a dark cupboard) the result is amazingly tasty and will make incredible salad dressings, etc. Didn’t sound very hard, but it’s very slow — weeks before it’s ready.

Do you have a link to the article? This sounds like a great idea for xmas presents–to go with some flavored oil. Thanks! — Lydia Ash If you can’t be nice, at least have the decency to be vague Posted Via Uncensored-News.Com – Still Only $9.95 – http://www.uncensored-news.com       <<<<<<<   The Worlds Uncensored News Source   <<<<<<<<

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I am just returning to brewing after a number of years.  Where is the best online source to order supplies from? Thanks JJB

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I don’t know about the best but I ordered all my gear from http://www.homebrewery.com/ they have one of the better deluxe brewing kits I have seen for a fairly ok price even comes with a wort chiller. "Disclaimer" I am no way affiliated with the above mentioned site just a satisfied customer Liam

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am just returning to brewing after a number of years.  Where is the best online source to order supplies from? Thanks JJB

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I am just returning to brewing after a number of years.  Where is the best online source to order supplies from?

It all depends upon what type of brewing you are doing, and where you live. Tell us what state you reside in, and whether you are doing extract or all grain…. Cheers, Mike

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www.mariettahomebrew.com

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am just returning to brewing after a number of years.  Where is the best online source to order supplies from? Thanks JJB

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I’d be wary of complaining online, remember the tropical plant guys who got there asses sued for online comments.

I think it was fish, but the case is ludicrous in any event. You can be sued for a campaign of malicious lies against a company, but describing your personal experiences accurately? Nah. Well, they can *sue* you but they won’t *win*. They were just hoping to create a climate of fear to prevent people from complaining. I don’t know what happened to the case in the end — I presume it was tossed, like it should have been. Anyone know? ben

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I’d be wary of complaining online, remember the tropical plant guys who got there asses sued for online comments.

So far that has been a single isolated case, let’s hope it statys that way As long as what you say about a retailer on the internet is true, you shouldn’t have to worry. John. —                            *** John P. Kolesar ***            *** Head Administrator, Monty Python’s Flying Talker ***

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I contacted the vendor who promised to credit my charge card for the hops and yeast. I’ll keep all informed… bob. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I recently placed an order online with a merchant who claimed to have hops and other materials in larger than one ounce quantities.

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So far that has been a single isolated case, let’s hope it statys that way As long as what you say about a retailer on the internet is true, you shouldn’t have to worry.

It’s likely to stay a single, isolated case.  If the intimidation doesn’t work, they face a counter-suit for tort and court costs.  Probably damages too (lost work, etc) if you have a good lawyer. — Lafe Homepage:    http://www.lafes.net/ Forums:      http://forums.lafes.net/ Beer Forum:  http://forums.lafes.net/index.php?act=SF&f=3

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I once made an online statement of my experience with a company, and was then threatened over the incident.  The comapny backed down when I held my ground, as they had no case since I was simply relating a true experience. I’d be wary of complaining online, remember the tropical plant guys who got there asses sued for online comments. I have never ordered online for brewing supplies, I always go to the local guys.  If that’s not an option, I guess you should establish a good relationship with a online distributer, but I’d do it over the phone. I second the phone call to the vendor, most likely, they will want to keep you happy, and make you a repeat customer.

– Todd Enlund      "Bandits at 3 O’Clock"      "Roger.  What should I do ’till then?"

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I have never ordered online for brewing supplies, I always go to the local guys.

I am new to brewing, but I do the same thing and with almost all of my purchases, not just brewing supplies. I could save a few dollars buying things mail order but would rather support local businesses that have real people that I can go and talk to.  I got my brewing kit at The Celler in Seattle and the staff there has been most helpful to me, answering a bazillion questions and even declining to sell me things I thought that I needed and don’t.  Good guys, and I wouldn’t know that if I ordered online. jerrybob DALnet #brewing

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All charges were credited. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I contacted the vendor who promised to credit my charge card for the hops and yeast. I’ll keep all informed…

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I agree whole-heartedly. No retailer worth their salt would risk the possible implications involved with ANY bad publicity. Even more so with the threat of being force-fed a budweiser (you can be cruel, can’t you)  :-)     Pete

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – From personal experience, call the vendor and tell them what happened. If they care about happy (and repeat!) customers, they will replace your hops. For a few ounces of hops, they won’t want to lose you as a future customer. Now if they are the opposite, you will find out. A friend ordered a brewing scale (weighing hops, grain) from one large online brew store. They sent the wrong one. He called them, and they sent the right one at no cost to him, and then paid the cost for him to send back the wrong one. And they gave him a free packet of hops (an ounce i think, but a nice touch) on top of it so there, all i can say is let them know, you shouldn’t have to resort to any of the other options if they are a respectable business John In the past, I’ve dealt with StPats, Miswest, Northern, Kedco (LHBS), and a few others, and I’ve NEVER had bad ingredients. What should I do? a) demand refund? b) disclose the vendor? c) suck it up and move on? d) road trip to the shop and force budweiser down his throat? suggestions? bob.

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I’d be wary of complaining online, remember the tropical plant guys who got there asses sued for online comments. I have never ordered online for brewing supplies, I always go to the local guys.  If that’s not an option, I guess you should establish a good relationship with a online distributer, but I’d do it over the phone. I second the phone call to the vendor, most likely, they will want to keep you happy, and make you a repeat customer.

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a) demand refund? b) disclose the vendor?

Contact the vendor, get them to make it right. Report back here good or bad.

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spoke thusly: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I recently placed an order online with a merchant who claimed to have hops and other materials in larger than one ounce quantities. I ordered 12oz of Amarillo hops, 1 pack each of Wyeast 1056 and a Scotch Ale, and 5# of Munich. I received parcel 1 yesterday, hops and yeast. It arrived by USPS about 6 days after I ordered, so the shipping was prompt. The Amarillo hops were brown and had no aroma, were not in a oxygen barrier bag, were not labelled with A/A percentage, and in general looked like they had been sitting on a shelf under fluorescent lights. My first experience with Amarillo was with a gift of 2 oz from the owner of a local micro, so I know what they should be like. The web-site merchant claims to keep all hops frozen until shipment, and the exact alpha is supposed to be printed on each bag. As for the yeast, the Scottish Ale is dated December 2001, and the 1056 is dated May 2002. I passed on dry hopping the Amarillo to my latest 10 gal batch of ale and used an ounce of Challenger that I’ve had in the freezer that’s been opened and resealed many (5) times and still has plenty of aroma. In the past, I’ve dealt with StPats, Miswest, Northern, Kedco (LHBS), and a few others, and I’ve NEVER had bad ingredients. What should I do? a) demand refund?

I would.  I would also talk to someone there (someone "in charge") to get a feel for their attitude. b) disclose the vendor?

That would depend on their attitude and, if I used them again, what the next time was like.  Anybody can have a bad day; I wouldn’t shout it from the rooftops if I thought it was an anomaly. c) suck it up and move on?

In addition, yeah. d) road trip to the shop and force budweiser down his throat?

See:  "attitude". suggestions? bob.

"To be good is noble, but to teach others how to be good is nobler–and less trouble."   –  Mark Twain

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call ‘em up, ask for replacement product, insist on freshness and proper labeling. If they won’t ante up, inform them that you intend to dispute the charge (you must do this).  Then inform your credit card company by phone and in writing that you are disputing the charge.  Make sure you fully document what was ordered and why it wasn’t acceptable.  You probably don’t need to go into details of brewing, just start by saying the products were spoiled due to improper packaging and age (as appropriate to each product). It may also help to re-order indentical products from another supplier using the same credit card.  This shows you really did need replacements, and that another supplier was able to deliver proper product.  If you do this, tell the credit card company that you won’t accept a replacement shipment from the original vendor, only a credit for the original charge will be acceptable. Dave

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I recently placed an order online with a merchant who claimed to have hops and other materials in larger than one ounce quantities. I ordered 12oz of Amarillo hops, 1 pack each of Wyeast 1056 and a Scotch Ale, and 5# of Munich. I received parcel 1 yesterday, hops and yeast. It arrived by USPS about 6 days after I ordered, so the shipping was prompt. The Amarillo hops were brown and had no aroma, were not in a oxygen barrier bag, were not labelled with A/A percentage, and in general looked like they had been sitting on a shelf under fluorescent lights. My first experience with Amarillo was with a gift of 2 oz from the owner of a local micro, so I know what they should be like. The web-site merchant claims to keep all hops frozen until shipment, and the exact alpha is supposed to be printed on each bag. As for the yeast, the Scottish Ale is dated December 2001, and the 1056 is dated May 2002. I passed on dry hopping the Amarillo to my latest 10 gal batch of ale and used an ounce of Challenger that I’ve had in the freezer that’s been opened and resealed many (5) times and still has plenty of aroma. In the past, I’ve dealt with StPats, Miswest, Northern, Kedco (LHBS), and a few others, and I’ve NEVER had bad ingredients. What should I do? a) demand refund? b) disclose the vendor? c) suck it up and move on? d) road trip to the shop and force budweiser down his throat? suggestions? bob.

Response:

I recently placed an order online with a merchant who claimed to have hops and other materials in larger than one ounce quantities. I ordered 12oz of Amarillo hops, 1 pack each of Wyeast 1056 and a Scotch Ale, and 5# of Munich. I received parcel 1 yesterday, hops and yeast. It arrived by USPS about 6 days after I ordered, so the shipping was prompt. The Amarillo hops were brown and had no aroma, were not in a oxygen barrier bag, were not labelled with A/A percentage, and in general looked like they had been sitting on a shelf under fluorescent lights. My first experience with Amarillo was with a gift of 2 oz from the owner of a local micro, so I know what they should be like. The web-site merchant claims to keep all hops frozen until shipment, and the exact alpha is supposed to be printed on each bag. As for the yeast, the Scottish Ale is dated December 2001, and the 1056 is dated May 2002. I passed on dry hopping the Amarillo to my latest 10 gal batch of ale and used an ounce of Challenger that I’ve had in the freezer that’s been opened and resealed many (5) times and still has plenty of aroma. In the past, I’ve dealt with StPats, Miswest, Northern, Kedco (LHBS), and a few others, and I’ve NEVER had bad ingredients. What should I do? a) demand refund? b) disclose the vendor? c) suck it up and move on? d) road trip to the shop and force budweiser down his throat? suggestions? bob.

Response:

From personal experience, call the vendor and tell them what happened. If they care about happy (and repeat!) customers, they will replace your hops. For a few ounces of hops, they won’t want to lose you as a future customer. Now if they are the opposite, you will find out. A friend ordered a brewing scale (weighing hops, grain) from one large online brew store. They sent the wrong one. He called them, and they sent the right one at no cost to him, and then paid the cost for him to send back the wrong one. And they gave him a free packet of hops (an ounce i think, but a nice touch) on top of it so there, all i can say is let them know, you shouldn’t have to resort to any of the other options if they are a respectable business John – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -In the past, I’ve dealt with StPats, Miswest, Northern, Kedco (LHBS), and a few others, and I’ve NEVER had bad ingredients. What should I do? a) demand refund? b) disclose the vendor? c) suck it up and move on? d) road trip to the shop and force budweiser down his throat? suggestions? bob.

Response:

Is it true that De Wolf Cosyns is going out of business? Yep.  Dingemans (sp) is going to take up the slack.

while i haven’t used it, i have heard that the biscuit is the dwc signature malt. is anyone producing a biscuit malt? s

Response:

Is it true that De Wolf Cosyns is going out of business? My LHBS guy told me that’s why he can’t get Special B malt any more! John

Response:

Is it true that De Wolf Cosyns is going out of business? My LHBS guy told me that’s why he can’t get Special B malt any more!

Yep.  Dingermans (sp) is going to take up the slack. Cheers, Mike

Response:

Yep.  Dingermans (sp) is going to take up the slack.

FYO it is "Dingemans." — Dan Listermann Check out our E-tail site at www.listermann.com – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Is it true that De Wolf Cosyns is going out of business? My LHBS guy told me that’s why he can’t get Special B malt any more! Cheers, Mike

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Yep.  Dingermans (sp) is going to take up the slack. FYO it is "Dingemans." — Dan Listermann Check out our E-tail site at www.listermann.com Is it true that De Wolf Cosyns is going out of business? My LHBS guy  told  me that’s why he can’t get Special B malt any more! Cheers, Mike

Having used DWC in professional brewing for 8 years it was sad to hear they were leaving the business. The roasted barley and Special B were their two best products IMO. Dingemans has taken the torch and products to replace DWC. Having tried some substitute Breiss producuts I am giving Dingemans the sale to see what they have. I have had to horde all the DWC I can but that will soon be gone.  The products I have tried from Dinemans have been great, as are the products I use from Weyermann, mmm chocolate rye and carafa 3. So if you can get it use it because I do on a 12 tap pub with a 10 barrel system. Nice pilsen too, although for base malts I use Minnesota Malting Premium 2 Row, reallllll nice stuff. Paul This is not a commercial but I get my malt from Mid America Brewing Supplies and Tom and Jim are great guys.

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 I am about to bottle tonight and want to use Prime Tabs that I purchased and used about 3 months ago. I put the remainder in a zip lock bag. Are these still good? Can they get contaminated? If so can I sterilize them in any way?

Response:

I am about to bottle tonight and want to use Prime Tabs that I purchased and used about 3 months ago. I put the remainder in a zip lock bag. Are these still good?

They will be good forever. Can they get contaminated?

Not really if kept dry. If so can I sterilize them in any way?

You could add them to some preboiled water, but it negates the ease of primetabs.  Just add them to the bottles, bottle as usual and don’t look back. Cheers, Mike

Response:

:  I am about to bottle tonight and want to use Prime Tabs that I purchased : and used about 3 months ago. I put the remainder in a zip lock bag. Are : these still good? Can they get contaminated? If so can I sterilize them in : any way? I have to confess that I’m *really* sloppy when it comes to my prime tabs. I do generally put them in a zip lock, but I have had some spill out into a little basket where I keep other brewing supplies. I’ve used these, and never picked up an infection. I’m sure you’ll be fine. — Bill

Response:

Very few organisms can manage to live in pure sugar.  It’s like salt in that the osmotic pressure dehydrates the invaders.  Old Prime Tabs tend not to dissolve as quickly – you need to invert the bottle every few hours until they disappear.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – :  I am about to bottle tonight and want to use Prime Tabs that I purchased : and used about 3 months ago. I put the remainder in a zip lock bag. Are : these still good? Can they get contaminated? If so can I sterilize them in : any way? I have to confess that I’m *really* sloppy when it comes to my prime tabs. I do generally put them in a zip lock, but I have had some spill out into a little basket where I keep other brewing supplies. I’ve used these, and never picked up an infection. I’m sure you’ll be fine. — Bill

Response:

I, too was bummed when Brewtopia closed down.  However, The Wine Seller in Herndon carries some brewing supplies.  They actually seem to have increased their stock following the demise of Brewtopia.  And they will order special requests. Jim

Response:

You should also check out Jay’s Brewing Supply.  Can find his catalog through www.burp.org.

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I am an all grain brewer and like to use a variety of Wyeast yeasts.  I used to be able to get my supplies at Brew America which closed and then another nearby shop closed this year.  Any suggestions?  I suspect that I will have to mail order.

The closest place I know of in the Metro area is Maryland homebrew in Columbia Maryland. www.mdhb.com I suppose you could take the BW parkway up there, but it’ll probably be a drive. They have good quality stuff there.  The people who work there are all fanatic all grain brewers. CyLZ

Response:

If no local shops are available…just quit brewing…don’t wanna sell out to the Internet corporate sell outs..( wink wink …just to be sure you understand I AM KIDDING )

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am an all grain brewer and like to use a variety of Wyeast yeasts.  I used to be able to get my supplies at Brew America which closed and then another nearby shop closed this year.  Any suggestions?  I suspect that I will have to mail order. Ken Dere

Response:

Ken: I have forgotten the name of the place, but isn’t there a homebrew store in Virginia Beach still open…? Not sure if that’s even close to you, but want to say that it had a pretty good selection when I checked it out in August, and that it might be worth your while to to take a road-trip to check out one weekend. Cheers! Todd Bissell Imperial Beach, CA – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am an all grain brewer and like to use a variety of Wyeast yeasts.  I used to be able to get my supplies at Brew America which closed and then another nearby shop closed this year.  Any suggestions?  I suspect that I will have to mail order. Ken Dere

Response:

I am an all grain brewer and like to use a variety of Wyeast yeasts.  I used to be able to get my supplies at Brew America which closed and then another nearby shop closed this year.  Any suggestions?  I suspect that I will have to mail order. Ken Dere

Response:

Can anyone recommend a sanitizer that comes in powdered form, preferably no rinse?  I receive all of my brewing supplies by mail, and can not receive any liquids.  Also, I am in Mexico, and must count on the sanitizer to kill all the beasties in the local water that I am using to sanitize (I do not brew with tap water, for obvious reasons). I am a long time user of iodaphor, and have been using the locally available vegatable cleaner/sanitizer, but I am starting to doubt the efficiency for brewing purposes.  Thanks, Shane

Response:

One Step, Straight A. B-Bright, Star San. . . —  Dan Listermann Check out our E-tail site at http://www.listermann.com Take a look at the anti-telemarketer forum.  It is my new hobby!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Can anyone recommend a sanitizer that comes in powdered form, preferably no rinse?  I receive all of my brewing supplies by mail, and can not receive any liquids.  Also, I am in Mexico, and must count on the sanitizer to kill all the beasties in the local water that I am using to sanitize (I do not brew with tap water, for obvious reasons). I am a long time user of iodaphor, and have been using the locally available vegatable cleaner/sanitizer, but I am starting to doubt the efficiency for brewing purposes.  Thanks, Shane

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I never top up all the way when the wine is still actively fermenting for just this reason.  You still have lost of CO2 coming out.  There’s plenty of CO2 to blanket your must in the headspace.  I usually do my first racking into a larger carboy (1/2 to 1 gallon bigger) so I don’t have this foaming out the top problem.  Only when the wine stops fermenting do I transfer it to another carboy and top up. —-Greg http://www.ndsu.nodak.edu/instruct/grcook/wine/ http://www.ndsu.nodak.edu/instruct/grcook/garden/ I just racked my first batch from Primary to Secondary. Based on all of the advice I read here, I topped up the carboy with a bottle (and then some) of similar wine until it was about 3 inches from the bung. Within minutes, foam started to push it’s way up into the neck and up through my air-lock, which filled with foam, wine, and oak chips instantly and then the foam started coming right out the top of the air-lock. I new right away that I had gone wrong somewhere, so I siphoned a bit of wine back out (which I drank, why waste it?) and still the foam is coming. I have placed it outside momentarily to see if I can bring the temperature down and get it under control. What a drag. When I removed the bung to suck some of the wine out, at least half of my oak chips spilled over the edge. I know what you are going to say. I racked to early. I took a SG reading and it was at 1.012. Well under the instruction’s recommendation of 1.02 and under. Also, oday as I watched the airlock (while it was in the Primary) it was not incredibly vigourous, just bubbling away happily (and cleanly). So I went for it (what do I know?) I am assuming that the added oxygen from the racking process, combined with the temperature of 24C just made the yeast go crazy again. The question is; what the hell do I do now? The bung won’t even stay in the carboy properly due to the pressure. Should I leave it outside at 8C all night and make it slow down some? Or just put it in the bathtub and let it go? Let this be a warning to all newbies out there. When racking from Primary to Secondary, let it settle for a few days before topping up. I wish I did. — "I’m not afraid to die, I’m not afraid to live, And when I’m flat on my back I hope to feel like I did." -U2 (Bono)

excellent remarks but if yor get a real oak barrel filled to the top you’ll get better flavor with less trouble, forget about using chips all together. since I started using barrels my quality improved 300% just trying to help FLguy Get the facts http://abmefaq.net/

Response:

excellent remarks but if yor get a real oak barrel filled to the top you’ll get better flavor with less trouble, forget about using chips all together. since I started using barrels my quality improved 300% just trying to help

On a small scale barrels have some problems, especially with contact times. I really like the oak stave that go into the carboy. I bulk age by wines in 23L carboys on these staves for months.

Response:

Where do you find these staves? — Mike Polo Community Theater Green Room http://www.communitytheater.org

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – excellent remarks but if yor get a real oak barrel filled to the top you’ll get better flavor with less trouble, forget about using chips all together. since I started using barrels my quality improved 300% just trying to help On a small scale barrels have some problems, especially with contact times. I really like the oak stave that go into the carboy. I bulk age by wines in 23L carboys on these staves for months.

Response:

Where do you find these staves?

They were sold generally here in Canada for a while, but vanished. Production is apparently starting again, and they us (Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies) a sample box of light and dark toast staves and chips in tea bags. sell for about $3.50 CAN for a 3 pk, each stave being about 60gms. Or we sell them individually for $1.50 CAN (about 93 cents US) Cheers, Steve

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I do this all the time with clean paper towels and have never had a problem. —-Greg http://www.ndsu.nodak.edu/instruct/grcook/wine/ http://www.ndsu.nodak.edu/instruct/grcook/garden/ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – After I posted last night, I brought the carboy back inside. The foaming had subsided significantly so I cleaned out and sanitized the airlock and bung and then I put it back in the carboy. Well, the bung still did not want to stay in the carboy, so I took a paper towel (fresh off the roll) and softly dried the bung and the inside of the neck of the carboy. This time the bung secured quite nicely (note to self). I was even able to add slightly more wine a little later and now it is going just fine, with about 4.5 inches between the wine and the bung. My question now is; did I mess up by using a paper towel to dry the bung and the inside neck of the carboy? I am being quite intense about sanitizing everything. Do you think it’ll be OK. — "I’m not afraid to die, I’m not afraid to live, And when I’m flat on my back I hope to feel like I did." -U2 (Bono) I just racked my first batch from Primary to Secondary. Based on all of the advice I read here, I topped up the carboy with a bottle (and then some) of similar wine until it was about 3 inches from the bung. Within minutes, foam started to push it’s way up into the neck and up through my air-lock, which filled with foam, wine, and oak chips instantly and then the foam started coming right out the top of the air-lock. I new right away that I had gone wrong somewhere, so I siphoned a bit of wine back out (which I drank, why waste it?) and still the foam is coming. I have placed it outside momentarily to see if I can bring the temperature down and get it under control. What a drag. When I removed the bung to suck some of the wine out, at least half of my oak chips spilled over the edge. I know what you are going to say. I racked to early. I took a SG reading and it was at 1.012. Well under the instruction’s recommendation of 1.02 and under. Also, oday as I watched the airlock (while it was in the Primary) it was not incredibly vigourous, just bubbling away happily (and cleanly). So I went for it (what do I know?) I am assuming that the added oxygen from the racking process, combined with the temperature of 24C just made the yeast go crazy again. The question is; what the hell do I do now? The bung won’t even stay in the carboy properly due to the pressure. Should I leave it outside at 8C all night and make it slow down some? Or just put it in the bathtub and let it go? Let this be a warning to all newbies out there. When racking from Primary to Secondary, let it settle for a few days before topping up. I wish I did. — "I’m not afraid to die, I’m not afraid to live, And when I’m flat on my back I hope to feel like I did." -U2 (Bono)

Response:

Cool. Thanks. — "I’m not afraid to die, I’m not afraid to live, And when I’m flat on my back I hope to feel like I did." -U2 (Bono)

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I do this all the time with clean paper towels and have never had a problem. —-Greg http://www.ndsu.nodak.edu/instruct/grcook/wine/ http://www.ndsu.nodak.edu/instruct/grcook/garden/ After I posted last night, I brought the carboy back inside. The foaming had subsided significantly so I cleaned out and sanitized the airlock and bung and then I put it back in the carboy. Well, the bung still did not want to stay in the carboy, so I took a paper towel (fresh off the roll) and softly dried the bung and the inside of the neck of the carboy. This time the bung secured quite nicely (note to self). I was even able to add slightly more wine a little later and now it is going just fine, with about 4.5 inches between the wine and the bung. My question now is; did I mess up by using a paper towel to dry the bung and the inside neck of the carboy? I am being quite intense about sanitizing everything. Do you think it’ll be OK. — "I’m not afraid to die, I’m not afraid to live, And when I’m flat on my back I hope to feel like I did." -U2 (Bono) I just racked my first batch from Primary to Secondary. Based on all of the advice I read here, I topped up the carboy with a bottle (and then some) of similar wine until it was about 3 inches from the bung. Within minutes, foam started to push it’s way up into the neck and up through my air-lock, which filled with foam, wine, and oak chips instantly and then the foam started coming right out the top of the air-lock. I new right away that I had gone wrong somewhere, so I siphoned a bit of wine back out (which I drank, why waste it?) and still the foam is coming. I have placed it outside momentarily to see if I can bring the temperature down and get it under control. What a drag. When I removed the bung to suck some of the wine out, at least half of my oak chips spilled over the edge. I know what you are going to say. I racked to early. I took a SG reading and it was at 1.012. Well under the instruction’s recommendation of 1.02 and under. Also, oday as I watched the airlock (while it was in the Primary) it was not incredibly vigourous, just bubbling away happily (and cleanly). So I went for it (what do I know?) I am assuming that the added oxygen from the racking process, combined with the temperature of 24C just made the yeast go crazy again. The question is; what the hell do I do now? The bung won’t even stay in the carboy properly due to the pressure. Should I leave it outside at 8C all night and make it slow down some? Or just put it in the bathtub and let it go? Let this be a warning to all newbies out there. When racking from Primary to Secondary, let it settle for a few days before topping up. I wish I did. — "I’m not afraid to die, I’m not afraid to live, And when I’m flat on my back I hope to feel like I did." -U2 (Bono)

Response:

After I posted last night, I brought the carboy back inside. The foaming had subsided significantly so I cleaned out and sanitized the airlock and bung and then I put it back in the carboy. Well, the bung still did not want to stay in the carboy, so I took a paper towel (fresh off the roll) and softly dried the bung and the inside of the neck of the carboy. This time the bung secured quite nicely (note to self). I was even able to add slightly more wine a little later and now it is going just fine, with about 4.5 inches between the wine and the bung. My question now is; did I mess up by using a paper towel to dry the bung and the inside neck of the carboy? I am being quite intense about sanitizing everything. Do you think it’ll be OK. — "I’m not afraid to die, I’m not afraid to live, And when I’m flat on my back I hope to feel like I did." -U2 (Bono)

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I just racked my first batch from Primary to Secondary. Based on all of the advice I read here, I topped up the carboy with a bottle (and then some) of similar wine until it was about 3 inches from the bung. Within minutes, foam started to push it’s way up into the neck and up through my air-lock, which filled with foam, wine, and oak chips instantly and then the foam started coming right out the top of the air-lock. I new right away that I had gone wrong somewhere, so I siphoned a bit of wine back out (which I drank, why waste it?) and still the foam is coming. I have placed it outside momentarily to see if I can bring the temperature down and get it under control. What a drag. When I removed the bung to suck some of the wine out, at least half of my oak chips spilled over the edge. I know what you are going to say. I racked to early. I took a SG reading and it was at 1.012. Well under the instruction’s recommendation of 1.02 and under. Also, oday as I watched the airlock (while it was in the Primary) it was not incredibly vigourous, just bubbling away happily (and cleanly). So I went for it (what do I know?) I am assuming that the added oxygen from the racking process, combined with the temperature of 24C just made the yeast go crazy again. The question is; what the hell do I do now? The bung won’t even stay in the carboy properly due to the pressure. Should I leave it outside at 8C all night and make it slow down some? Or just put it in the bathtub and let it go? Let this be a warning to all newbies out there. When racking from Primary to Secondary, let it settle for a few days before topping up. I wish I did. — "I’m not afraid to die, I’m not afraid to live, And when I’m flat on my back I hope to feel like I did." -U2 (Bono)

Response:

Paul, The problem you ran into was not how early you racked, necessarily, but that there was lots of dissolved CO2 in the wine. When the chips went in, they provided lots of rough surface for the gas to form bubbles on. Sort of like "boiling chips" added to a chemistry beaker to help small bubbles form. This can happen even after fermentation is over if there’s enough dissolved CO2. It’s something to watch out for if you use a "Fizz-Ex" to degas a wine. Glad it worked out OK.                     Mike MTM – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I just racked my first batch from Primary to Secondary. Based on all of the advice I read here, I topped up the carboy with a bottle (and then some) of similar wine until it was about 3 inches from the bung. Within minutes, foam started to push it’s way up into the neck and up through my air-lock, which filled with foam, wine, and oak chips instantly and then the foam started coming right out the top of the air-lock. I new right away that I had gone wrong somewhere, so I siphoned a bit of wine back out (which I drank, why waste it?) and still the foam is coming. I have placed it outside momentarily to see if I can bring the temperature down and get it under control. What a drag. When I removed the bung to suck some of the wine out, at least half of my oak chips spilled over the edge. I know what you are going to say. I racked to early. I took a SG reading and it was at 1.012. Well under the instruction’s recommendation of 1.02 and under. Also, oday as I watched the airlock (while it was in the Primary) it was not incredibly vigourous, just bubbling away happily (and cleanly). So I went for it (what do I know?) I am assuming that the added oxygen from the racking process, combined with the temperature of 24C just made the yeast go crazy again. The question is; what the hell do I do now? The bung won’t even stay in the carboy properly due to the pressure. Should I leave it outside at 8C all night and make it slow down some? Or just put it in the bathtub and let it go? Let this be a warning to all newbies out there. When racking from Primary to Secondary, let it settle for a few days before topping up. I wish I did. — "I’m not afraid to die, I’m not afraid to live, And when I’m flat on my back I hope to feel like I did." -U2 (Bono)

Response:

I never top up all the way when the wine is still actively fermenting for just this reason.  You still have lost of CO2 coming out.  There’s plenty of CO2 to blanket your must in the headspace.  I usually do my first racking into a larger carboy (1/2 to 1 gallon bigger) so I don’t have this foaming out the top problem.  Only when the wine stops fermenting do I transfer it to another carboy and top up. —-Greg http://www.ndsu.nodak.edu/instruct/grcook/wine/ http://www.ndsu.nodak.edu/instruct/grcook/garden/ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I just racked my first batch from Primary to Secondary. Based on all of the advice I read here, I topped up the carboy with a bottle (and then some) of similar wine until it was about 3 inches from the bung. Within minutes, foam started to push it’s way up into the neck and up through my air-lock, which filled with foam, wine, and oak chips instantly and then the foam started coming right out the top of the air-lock. I new right away that I had gone wrong somewhere, so I siphoned a bit of wine back out (which I drank, why waste it?) and still the foam is coming. I have placed it outside momentarily to see if I can bring the temperature down and get it under control. What a drag. When I removed the bung to suck some of the wine out, at least half of my oak chips spilled over the edge. I know what you are going to say. I racked to early. I took a SG reading and it was at 1.012. Well under the instruction’s recommendation of 1.02 and under. Also, oday as I watched the airlock (while it was in the Primary) it was not incredibly vigourous, just bubbling away happily (and cleanly). So I went for it (what do I know?) I am assuming that the added oxygen from the racking process, combined with the temperature of 24C just made the yeast go crazy again. The question is; what the hell do I do now? The bung won’t even stay in the carboy properly due to the pressure. Should I leave it outside at 8C all night and make it slow down some? Or just put it in the bathtub and let it go? Let this be a warning to all newbies out there. When racking from Primary to Secondary, let it settle for a few days before topping up. I wish I did. — "I’m not afraid to die, I’m not afraid to live, And when I’m flat on my back I hope to feel like I did." -U2 (Bono)

Response:

I just racked my first batch from Primary to Secondary. Based on all of the advice I read here, I topped up the carboy with a bottle (and then some) of similar wine until it was about 3 inches from the bung. Within minutes, foam started to push it’s way up into the neck and up through my air-lock, which filled with foam, wine, and oak chips instantly and then the foam started coming right out the top of the air-lock. I new right away that I had gone wrong somewhere, so I siphoned a bit of wine back out (which I drank, why waste it?) and still the foam is coming. I have placed it outside momentarily to see if I can bring the temperature down and get it under control. What a drag. When I removed the bung to suck some of the wine out, at least half of my oak chips spilled over the edge. I know what you are going to say. I racked to early. I took a SG reading and it was at 1.012. Well under the instruction’s recommendation of 1.02 and under. Also, oday as I watched the airlock (while it was in the Primary) it was not incredibly vigourous, just bubbling away happily (and cleanly). So I went for it (what do I know?) I am assuming that the added oxygen from the racking process, combined with the temperature of 24C just made the yeast go crazy again. The question is; what the hell do I do now? The bung won’t even stay in the carboy properly due to the pressure. Should I leave it outside at 8C all night and make it slow down some? Or just put it in the bathtub and let it go? Let this be a warning to all newbies out there. When racking from Primary to Secondary, let it settle for a few days before topping up. I wish I did. — "I’m not afraid to die, I’m not afraid to live, And when I’m flat on my back I hope to feel like I did." -U2 (Bono)

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I just brewed a recipie kit that I ordered from Midwest Brewing Supplies.  The kit that I brewed was clone of Fosters and other Australian lagers.  Anybody brewed any of their kits and have any input on them?

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Craig – I’ve brewed a wheat and dark wheat kit from midwest as well as ordering my original dual stage kit from them….service has been great and the beer has been excellent!!! Rodney Rein

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I just brewed a recipie kit that I ordered from Midwest Brewing Supplies.  The kit that I brewed was clone of Fosters and other Australian lagers.  Anybody brewed any of their kits and have any input on them?

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Craig – I’ve brewed a wheat and dark wheat kit from midwest as well as ordering my original dual stage kit from them….service has been great and the beer has been excellent!!!

Thanks for the reply.  So far their service has been great.  The kit that I ordered came in very quick, and when I’ve had a question about this or that, they have been quick to respond.  Last Sunday when I was boiling the brew, it was smelling pretty good.  Now it is the long and hard part, the waiting game.  Too bad I do not have any long out of town business trips scheduled.  That would help with the wait.  I’m kind of looking at mid-August being the earliest that I can enjoy my wares, after I bottle it, I want to lager it for a while.  My birthday is in mid-August so this can be a good "self birthday present".

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I just brewed a recipie kit that I ordered from Midwest Brewing Supplies.  The kit that I brewed was clone of Fosters and other Australian lagers.  Anybody brewed any of their kits and have any input on them?

I brewed a Belgian Wit June 13 and I just tested a bottle the other night which resulted in testing another.  This kit is very good!  I added a pinch more corriander than they provide.  I also had purchased the cream ale and a variety of hops to make a Pale Ale but have not yet brewed it.  I usually get all my brewing supplies from either Stpats or Midwest. Let us know how it turns out. Brian

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I find Midwests kits to be great.  I don’t know why, but they seem to turn out better for me than some others like St.Pats. I believe their extract to be fresher.  I made the Cascade Pale and it scored a 32 in a competition last year, but I dry hopped with my own leaf hops. NAJASCYYY Tom Meier Huntsville, AL – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I just brewed a recipie kit that I ordered from Midwest Brewing Supplies.  Anybody brewed any of their kits and have any input on them?

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I live a mile and a half from Midwest, so I don’t use mail order. In store, the staff is a bit spotty (they have a few lines of business entirely unrelated to homebrewing and not all clerks are expert in everything). Midwest’s kits are okay. I vastly prefer the kits from Northern Brewer, finding them to be considerably more complex and interesting, though a tad pricier. Both seem to have fast turnover, so supplies should be fresh.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I just brewed a recipie kit that I ordered from Midwest Brewing Supplies.  The kit that I brewed was clone of Fosters and other Australian lagers.  Anybody brewed any of their kits and have any input on them?

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