Brewing Master » Brewing Beer » mead question
mead question
Question:
I am new to this and have a few questions. In a recipie I saw last week the poster said to add Irish moss to the honey and water mixture when it’s being boiled. What sort of Irish moss is he talking about? How long will it take to ferment (roughly)? What sort of yeast should be used? Can I use dried champaign yeast? What sort of flavour is mead? Probably stupid questions, Thanks, Nial Stewart BNR Europe My views above etc
Response:
|In a recipie I saw last week the poster said to add |Irish moss to the honey and water mixture when it’s |being boiled. What sort of Irish moss is he talking |about? It’s actually a dried seaweed that is used as a clairifing agent toward the end of your boil. |How long will it take to ferment (roughly)? If you add yeast nutrient and a little acid blend, about 3 weeks. |What sort of yeast should be used? Can I use dried |champaign yeast? Yes |What sort of flavour is mead? Dry or sweet depending on how much residual sugar is left. Fruit can be added at the end of the boil and left to steep for 20 minutes before cooling. — Jim Feldman || This space for lease, contact your Digital Equipment Corp || Digital Sales Rep. CSC/Colorado Springs || My opinions are my own and in no way reflect Digital’s POV (unless they’re charging somebody for me to give them).
Response:
What sort of Irish moss is he talking about?
Moss from any old tree in the old country should do nicely. No! Wait, I’m kidding. It’s a dried seaweed, known as "Carageenan" to many. It smells like fish food, and it’s to help precipitate proteins during the boil, which helps with clairty. Some mead enthusiasts insist that these proteins are vital for the "deliacte" flavors of the mead, others say they taste like crap. Personally, I drink a lot of mead made with/without irish moss, and can’t much taste the difference. (Though these meads always vary in many other ways at the same time, so take this with a wee pinch o’ salt.) How long will it take to ferment (roughly)?
2-40 weeks. What sort of yeast should be used?
Depends on how you want it to taste. Can I use dried champaign yeast?
Absolutely. I’ve made some delicious meads with that. What sort of flavour is mead?
It’s kind of honey flavoured. Many of my meads taste like flowers, like springtime. They can range from very sweet to very dry. Often, herbs, fruits, spices, and occasionally small children are added to the mead, and that will change the flavor profile considerably. (Well, okay, no small children, but sometimes the kitchen sink.) Probably stupid questions
The only stupid questions are the ones you want answered but don’t ask. -R
Response:
I know honey can be tough to ferment so it is advised to use yeast nutrients. What about using a little light malt in the recipe to help things along. I know that this really wouldn’t be mead but would it work? I guess what I am thinking of is a barleywine/mead — maybe 3lbs malt to 6lbs honey … Or is this just a whacked out idea that will taste awful? — Joe
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I know honey can be tough to ferment so it is advised to use yeast nutrients. What about using a little light malt in the recipe to help things along. I know that this really wouldn’t be mead but would it work? I guess what I am thinking of is a barleywine/mead — maybe 3lbs malt to 6lbs honey … Or is this just a whacked out idea that will taste awful? — Joe
Yes it will work, it is called a braggot. See http://hbd.org/brewery/cm3/index.html and select the Index link, select braggot for recipes. ampl — Andrew Lynch / Animation Technology / DreamWorks SKG /
Response:
I know honey can be tough to ferment so it is advised to use yeast nutrients. What about using a little light malt in the recipe to help things along. I know that this really wouldn’t be mead but would it work? I guess what I am thinking of is a barleywine/mead — maybe 3lbs malt to 6lbs honey … Or is this just a whacked out idea that will taste awful?
I don’t know if adding malt will help you avoid the yeast nutrient issue. You may still need to add yeast nutrient. On the positive side, the braggot I made last spring (6 lbs DME + 8 lbs honey + 2 ounces of Fuggles) is just begining to hit its prime. It will take longer to ferment than beer. But it is yummy. -georg (hic) non ani sunt permittendi
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: Hi Folks, : I’ve got a young mead, just racked to the secondary–1.5 months since : brewing. We’re hoping for a champagne style in about 10 months time. We : added two teaspoons of acid blend during the honey pastuerization step. : It is very sour right now–what should we do? We don’t want it *this* No wonder it is sour with all that acid blend you added. Taste what you are putting in your mead/beer before you add it. Acid blend has serious pucker-power! A little goes a long way. I stopped adding chemicals to my mead. Water, honey, yeast and occaisionally fruit/spice. This was all the ancient meadmakers had to work with, so it is all that I use now. : sour at the final pouring. Kevin has heard that Tannins (tea) will : help–does anyone know about this? Otherwise, the mead is wonderful. It’s : definetly got punch ;) I’ve heard that black brewed tea will help clear a cloudy mead. I’ve never tried it though. Two years ago, I made a batch of orange mead. It was so sour that I poured out the first three bottles I opened. After a year of bottle conditioning it was getting better. Now, after two years, I wish I had made a five gallon batch. It is delicious. You might have to wait this one out. While you’re waiting, brew another batch; early and often. Jack Costa Mesa, CA
Response:
I’ve got the SAME exact thing going on. Just secondaried a 3lb/gal mead made with Champagne yeast a couple weeks ago and it’s terribly sharp, though fermented through, or very close. I’ve been going with the option of ‘relax, dont worry, have a homebrew’ and just waiting out my mead. Also, in your later post, you mentioned that this was for your wedding??? How cool.. mine is the same.. for my wedding in October 1999. Hopefully it will be good enough by then, but I have my fallback plan: Either Rocky Mountain Meadery or ‘As You Like It’ meadery. Always have a backup plan when brewing for an event. 
Best of luck and congratulations. -j – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Folks, I’ve got a young mead, just racked to the secondary–1.5 months since brewing. We’re hoping for a champagne style in about 10 months time. We added two teaspoons of acid blend during the honey pastuerization step. It is very sour right now–what should we do? We don’t want it *this* sour at the final pouring. Kevin has heard that Tannins (tea) will help–does anyone know about this? Otherwise, the mead is wonderful. It’s definetly got punch ;)
Response:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Folks, I’ve got a young mead, just racked to the secondary–1.5 months since brewing. We’re hoping for a champagne style in about 10 months time. We added two teaspoons of acid blend during the honey pastuerization step. It is very sour right now–what should we do? We don’t want it *this* sour at the final pouring. Kevin has heard that Tannins (tea) will help–does anyone know about this? Otherwise, the mead is wonderful. It’s definetly got punch ;) Six weeks is *awefully* early to tell what a mjood will turn out like; I wouldn’t be surprised if it tasted like battery acid at the point.
heh heh. Yeah, I was suprised it tasted so wonderful (a lot like an oerbeir), but *not* what I wanted my wedding champagne to taste like! This is my first mead, so I’m a little, uh, overanxious? I guess I’m wondering if the sourness will mellow. One of the little joys of twenty liter batches is that you can afford to sample a bottle every couple of weeks, just to see how the baby is doing.
We did a six gallon batch–mbbe lost a gallon during racking (woops). PS. You wouldn’t know Aase Jepsen, would you? She’s doing a PhD at Duke 
Nope, what department? I’m biosciences–zoology to be exact. Don’t get out much though. | L. Caitlin Coberly | ^oo^^oo^^oo^^oo^^oo^^oo^^oo^^oo^^oo^^oo^^oo^ | | | -""–""–""–""–""–""–""–""–""–""–""- | "Theories come and theories go. The frog remains." Jean Rostand 1960
Response:
Hi Folks, I’ve got a young mead, just racked to the secondary–1.5 months since brewing. We’re hoping for a champagne style in about 10 months time. We added two teaspoons of acid blend during the honey pastuerization step. It is very sour right now–what should we do? We don’t want it *this* sour at the final pouring. Kevin has heard that Tannins (tea) will help–does anyone know about this? Otherwise, the mead is wonderful. It’s definetly got punch ;)
Six weeks is *awefully* early to tell what a mjood will turn out like; I wouldn’t be surprised if it tasted like battery acid at the point. One of the little joys of twenty liter batches is that you can afford to sample a bottle every couple of weeks, just to see how the baby is doing. PS. You wouldn’t know Aase Jepsen, would you? She’s doing a PhD at Duke – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Thanks in advance, Caitlin | L. Caitlin Coberly | ^oo^^oo^^oo^^oo^^oo^^oo^^oo^^oo^^oo^^oo^^oo^ | | | -""–""–""–""–""–""–""–""–""–""–""- | "Theories come and theories go. The frog remains." Jean Rostand 1960
Response:
Hi Folks, I’ve got a young mead, just racked to the secondary–1.5 months since brewing. We’re hoping for a champagne style in about 10 months time. We added two teaspoons of acid blend during the honey pastuerization step. It is very sour right now–what should we do? We don’t want it *this* sour at the final pouring. Kevin has heard that Tannins (tea) will help–does anyone know about this? Otherwise, the mead is wonderful. It’s definetly got punch ;) Thanks in advance, Caitlin | L. Caitlin Coberly | ^oo^^oo^^oo^^oo^^oo^^oo^^oo^^oo^^oo^^oo^^oo^ | | | -""–""–""–""–""–""–""–""–""–""–""- | "Theories come and theories go. The frog remains." Jean Rostand 1960
Response:
what do you think of using yeast nutrients to speed up mead fermentation. <snip 15 lbs clover honey (all my supply store stocks) 1 tbs. gypsum 4 tbs. acid blend (this is optional) 1/2 oz yeast extract (this is also optional for speedy fermentation) 1/4 tsp. irish moss 1/2 oz dried Champaign yeast (is there a better yeast strain for this?)
I made a still mead of almost the exact same recipe, minus the irish moss and replacing the yeast extract with nutrient. (NOTE: AFAIK Yeast Nutrient and Yeast Extract/Hulls are for the same purpose — they provide the yeast with the appropriate nutirents to get up to speed fermenting the honey, since the honey doesn’t have the required nutrients). I suggest using nutrient, at least as much as is recommended on the bottle, since the fermentation will be slow regardless — give those yeasties a chance! Since I was planning on leaving my mead in the fermenter for about 1 year, I didn’t think Irish Moss was necessary (after a year, I think it should be clear enough!). I started it in February of 1998, bottled in April 1999, and it is just now coming of age. I used Lalvin Dry Champagne Yeast. Since I made a plain still mead, it is (I guess) somewhat unremarkable, and I probably under-nourished my yeast becuase it is a little sweet (but it is potent, so maybe the yeast puttered out at the 18% mark…). Regardless, as it ages it becomes smoother and better, so plan on a long aging (like another reply said — at least a year in carboy and another year in bottle or keg). Good luck! -Chris
Response:
what do you think of using yeast nutrients to speed up mead fermentation.
Absolutely essential, IMO. For those of you who didn’t see it in HBD #3309 a few days ago, here is what Dr Clayton Cone from Lallemand has to say on the Louis, Thanks for asking about Mead production. Your outline covers the essence of the subject very well. I will briefly elaborate on the on the subject. Several years ago, I visited about 50 Meadaries in several countries. It was not uncommon to find fermentations that had not completed after 3, 6 and even 9 months. It was accepted that this was normal. Perhaps the bees had put preservatives in the honey to protect it from spoilage and this was what made the fermentations so sluggish. Slow fermentations were accepted as part of mead making; it might even be necessary, to produce the best mead. At that time I began to do studies on ‘difficult’ fermentations: honey, corn syrup, rice syrup, cane sugar, highly polished juice from concentrates and ultra filtered single strength juice. It quickly became apparent that they had all or part of the following problems in common (honey, corn syrup, rice syrup and cane sugar has all of the problems, concentrates and ultra filtered juice have part of the problem): 1). Little to no available nutrients for the yeast. It would take 1 – 2 pounds of a well balanced yeast nutrient like Fermaid K plus 2- 4 pounds of Diammonium phosphate per 1000 gallons of fermenting material to make the yeast happy. Subsequent research by others indicates that adding the Fermaid K at the beginning and adding the DAP in increments over the first half of the fermentation is the very best way to feed the yeast. 2). There is little to no buffering material present to prevent the pH from dropping dramatically during the first few hours of the fermentation. With honey, corn syrup and other straight sugar fermentations the pH can drop from 4.8 down to as low as 2.7 within the first 12 hours, seriously stressing the yeast. The yeast often never recover and result in a long drawn out fermentation of many months. Some grape juice loose a great deal of their buffering material (potassium) when being preparing for evaporation. It is necessary to monitor the pH drop during the first 12 – 24 hours to be sure that it does not drop below 3.2. For those with out a pH meter, the addition of one pound of a carbonate such as sodium or potassium carbonate before the 12th hour should minimize the pH problem. 3). Usually there is no vitamin B1 available for the yeast. The Fermaid K will supply this vitamin. 4) Usually there is a deficiency of O2 in the must during the growth phase of the yeast. Leave the air lock off and agitate the fermenting material several times for the first 24 – 36 hours will supply enough O2 for the yeast to produce the necessary lipids to act as a growth factor and protect the cell walls against the alcohol toxicity near the end of the fermentation. Put the air lock on after the first 24 – 36 hours and take the usual precautions to protect against the presents of O2 after this. 5). There are no particulate matter present. Yeast are sociable creatures. They like to snuggle up to something in order to do their best work. With out particulate matter, the yeast tend to settle rapidly to the bottom before the vigorous fermentation begins. Many of the yeast cells remain on the bottom and never get back up where the action is. This occures again near the end of the fermentation when there is very little activity to keep them up in suspension. The addition of 1 – 2 pounds of a product like Vi – A – Dry Inactive Dry Yeast – yeast hulls and an occasional stirring during the first 48 hours and the last few days will prevent the settling and remedy the problem. 6). CO2 under pressure as in commercial beer fermentation or in the lower part of a tall fermenter or when the fermenting material is supersaturated with CO2 can be toxic to the yeast. This usually is a very minor problem, however, when the yeast is under stress for other reasons, it can be just enough of an added stress to cause a sluggish fermentation. An occasional agitation will release excess CO2. Watch out for foaming. Adhere to good sanitary practices. Follow the Yeast rehydration instructions. Use temperature to control fermentation rates and kind of ester profile: 85 – 90 F should take less than 1, 60F should take about 2 – 3 weeks. When you have completed the fermentation you can then decide how long you want the mead or wine to remain on the yeast. If you want it to be light, fresh and fruity, you can remove the yeast and filter immediately. If you desire some yeasty tones and perhaps a little oak you can leave it on the yeast and or in the barrel as long as you desire. With a reasonably rapid fermentation, you can decide on how long you want leave the fermented material on the yeast and age it. With a sluggish fermentation, the yeast is in command and decides how long. With a health, vigorous fermentation you will get the very best flavor and aroma profile out of your chosen yeast. Clayton Cone
Response:
If you don’t use yeast nutrient in making mead, expect your batch to finish in about fifty or sixty years. Honey doesn’t have the nutrients needed to properly ferment. Use about a teaspoon per gallon. If you use too much, your batch (if I recall) will develope a tinny taste. I haven’t used acid blends in making mead, though I plan on doing so this fall (my mead-making season begin in late August). The most important thing to remember is that you can’t rush mead. I’ve read posts on how people drink theirs after a month or two of fermenting. Mead should sit in the carboy (with occasional racking) for one or two years, and then be allowed to age for another one or two years. This is especially true if you’re making a spiced mead. In regards to yeast strains, you can use champagne yeast, sweet mead yeast, dry mead yeast, etc.. There’s a lot out there. One book I recommend is ‘Making Mead (Honey Wine),’ by Roger Morse. Morse isn’t a homebrewer; he’s a mead-maker. The book is pretty opinionated, but it’s educational. Phil Before you buy.
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what do you think of using yeast nutrients to speed up mead fermentation. my book says nothing about how it affects the quality of the mead.
The latest issue of Zymurgy is mostly about mead including receipes, tips, and discussions on the process. There is even a nice chart showing what sort of mead you want (dry, sweet, etc. on one axis and body on the other) and what yeasts they suggest you try. I may give mead a try this year. — http://www.geocities.com/ptimlin/ Before you buy.
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what do you think of using yeast nutrients to speed up mead fermentation. my book says nothing about how it affects the quality of the mead. i am thinking of brewing my first batch of mead and know very little about it so any suggestions would be of great help. i have never tried mead before but i am very interested.here is my recipe. 15 lbs clover honey (all my supply store stocks) 1 tbs. gypsum 4 tbs. acid blend (this is optional) 1/2 oz yeast extract (this is also optional for speedy fermentation) 1/4 tsp. irish moss 1/2 oz dried Champaign yeast (is there a better yeast strain for this?)