Brewing Master » Best Homebrew

return to my roots

admin — Sat, 27 Nov 2004 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

i need to get some electronics stuff like a 300-in-1 kit or do-it-yourself things. i have a breadboard and parts somewhere. i used to enjoy designing stuff, but i rarely got to the construction and soldering phase. maybe i can homebrew some audio gear. i love building subwoofers. the trailor doesn’t have enough room for these things. michael

Response:

On Sat, 27 Nov 2004 20:39:44 GMT, "gravity" wrote: >i need to get some electronics stuff like a 300-in-1 kit or do-it-yourself >things. i have a breadboard and parts somewhere. >i used to enjoy designing stuff, but i rarely got to the construction and >soldering phase. maybe i can homebrew some audio gear. >i love building subwoofers. the trailor doesn’t have enough room for these >things. >michael

Damn, I’m trying to think of the name of the company that used to have all sorts of electronics packages that you could buy..I think it started with an H.. Hamilton? I wonder if they are even around anymore.. Radio Shack may still sell those little electronics books with projects within.. I made a few things with them,..fun stuff! Best, Chris

Response:

Try http://www.heathkit.com/ They no longer make kits, but there are others who do. http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=electronic+kits&btnG=Google+Search John

Response:

> Damn, I’m trying to think of the name of the company that used to > have all sorts of electronics packages that you could buy..I think it > started with an H.. Hamilton? I wonder if they are even around > anymore.. Radio Shack may still sell those little electronics books > with projects within.. I made a few things with them,..fun stuff!

hi Coconut. Heathkit is one as someone mentioned in a later post. i think Heathkit is out of business, or sold the kit company off. but Velleman makes kits now. my favorite kit was the 200-in-1 from Radio Shack and the Microcomputer Trainer from Radio Shack. the latter had cheesy contact switches, a string of LEDs, a 7 segment LED readout, and a TM1320 (?) 4 bit microprocessor. i hear very few people train with such a kit (even with a newer proc), but instead use Basic STAMP, PIC, or something else that interfaces with a computer. you can do the whole compiling and assembling and then put the machine code on the chip. as childish as it seems, a 300 or 500-in-1 radio shack kit can teach one a lot. this brings back memories, as i did shortwave listening and kit building since grammar school. michael

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->hi Coconut. Heathkit is one as someone mentioned in a later post. >i think Heathkit is out of business, or sold the kit company off. but >Velleman makes kits now. my favorite kit was the 200-in-1 from Radio Shack >and the Microcomputer Trainer from Radio Shack. the latter had cheesy >contact switches, a string of LEDs, a 7 segment LED readout, and a TM1320 >(?) 4 bit microprocessor. i hear very few people train with such a kit >(even with a newer proc), but instead use Basic STAMP, PIC, or something >else that interfaces with a computer. you can do the whole compiling and >assembling and then put the machine code on the chip. >as childish as it seems, a 300 or 500-in-1 radio shack kit can teach one a >lot. this brings back memories, as i did shortwave listening and kit >building since grammar school. >michael

Oh yeah, Heathkit, thats it… My father made all sorts of projects using their kits.. I remember as a kid using the Radio Shack kits.. Maybe I’ll ask for one for xmas to give me something to do..lol Best, Chris

Response:

Question re: Fender Tube reverbs (6G15 vs. CBS later SF

admin — Fri, 14 May 2004 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

Anyone have experience with the later CBS tube reverb unit? (Black tolex, silverface panel, tourquoise threaded cloth). Looking at the schematic, it appears there is an extra tube stage post reveb pan. Maybe they thought too much was lost in the reveb pan. Anyway, I was considering a homebrew and that got me thinking of adding the additional stage and adding some tone control… Any thoughts would be appreciated. Tim

Response:

I think the silverface sounds better-but then I think most silverfaces sound better than the blackfaces. I think the biggest factor is the reverb pan. They come in various varieties and sound different. I wonder if a stereo unit with one short three spring and one long two spring would be cool? The can that Mesa used is the best of the bunch to my ears. I think this is the short three spring.

Response:

WiFi question.

admin — Fri, 31 Oct 2003 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

Were going on the road shortly for the winter. What WiFi card is the best for my Lap Top and what software is the best at finding "Hot Spots"?

Orinoco/Proxim, Great signal reception and noise blocking. Only one that I know with an antenna jack. You can find them at Flying J’s, smaller computer stores with knowledgable staff instead of salesmen or Ebay. A relabled Orinoco gold card is available from Dell: http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/productdetail.aspx?sku=430-0284&c=… &cs=19&category_id=4011&page=external For hotspot search software use NetStumbler. http://www.netstumbler.com/ And is a external antenna connector t on the card a must for great distances? If so who makes one? I can’t seem to find one in any of the big electronic stores.

If you stick with pay for play hotspots the signal should be strong enough without needing an external. If you want to use "free sites" then an external with a pigtail is a must to get a strong signal. http://www.etherdesigns.com/pages/1/index.htm has a nice Cantenna style plus pigtails or you can goggle for plans to build your own. Hint the money you save building your own is only minimal once you paid for the parts.

Response:

Not sure what card you will eventually get, but if it has the capabilities of an external antenna there are plenty out there to buy. Check out http://products.wi-fiplanet.com/wifi/antenna/recent1.html for some antenna discriptions. If you are the DIY type, how about making a directional cantenna from the directions at http://www.oreillynet.com/lpt/wlg/448 . He shows you how, step by step using common items (pringle can). And if you think making an antenna out of a can, can’t be competitive with factory built antenna, then look at the story at http://www.wi-fiplanet.com/columns/article.php/1008901 . Two more sources, http://www.turnpoint.net/wireless/cantennahowto.html is making an award winning cantenna. http://www.turnpoint.net/wireless/has.html#performance is about the homebrew antenna test. As far as finding a hot spot, go to http://products.wi-fiplanet.com/wifi/recent1.html and look down the left collumn. There is a place you can look up hot spots in different states. Just interested in WarDriving? Try http://www.onlinesecurity.com/Community_Forum/Community_Forum_detail1… . Well, that should keep you focused for awhile. Have fun on your trip, FMB (only one B in FMB) ps: Not wireless here yet

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Were going on the road shortly for the winter. What WiFi card is the best for my Lap Top and what software is the best at finding "Hot Spots"? And is a external antenna connector t on the card a must for great distances? If so who makes one? I can’t seem to find one in any of the big electronic stores. Thanks in advance for you help. Gene

Response:

Here is one provider: http://www.linkspot.com/portal/common/thisrvpark.html

Response:

Were going on the road shortly for the winter. What WiFi card is the best for my Lap Top and what software is the best at finding "Hot Spots"? And is a external antenna connector t on the card a must for great distances? If so who makes one? I can’t seem to find one in any of the big electronic stores. Thanks in advance for you help. Gene

Response:

I have been traveling with an 802.11b card in my laptop, and have a real hard time getting a signal inside the MH with the internal antenna in the card (even if I drive in the toad the doors or engine block the signal at times). I Finally got an external antenna (with a magnetic base) and have it (and a cellular antenna, also with a magnetic base) on the roof of the MH (or toad when I am driving it), and just plug it into the card (or phone) when needed. For ease of use inside the motorhome (when not wired directly to the antenna) I have a cell repeater (they are coming out with an 802.11x repeater in the next few months) from http://www.cellantenna.com

Response:

Flight planning spreadsheet

admin — Mon, 04 Aug 2003 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

compuserve avsig libraries

*** Does anybody know of a WWW or FTP site where one can get at stuff from these "compuserve avsig libraries"? Most of us probably don’t have Compuserv access. It sounds like there’s some neat stuff there… - Jerry Kaidor

Response:

I got a note from a Doug Ranz at IBM about a remarkably full-function flight planning spreadsheet. If anyone else is interested, you can

I downloaded this and it may be wonderful but I’m buggered if I can get it to do anything! David.

Response:

I got a note from a Doug Ranz at IBM about a remarkably full-function flight planning spreadsheet. If anyone else is interested, you can I downloaded this and it may be wonderful but I’m buggered if I can get it to do anything! David.

Seems like I can’t find the reference to the original site. Got a URL to get to the spreadsheet? John Rodkey — Director of Academic Computing, Westmont College, Santa Barbara, CA, USA

Response:

I got the following; the www.simtel.net site worked for me. ftp://ftp.cc.gatech.edu/pub/people/pas/air/e6b http://www.simtel.net/simtel.net/win3/engin-pre.html compuserve avsig libraries Once I figured out that the blue colored squares were for filling in, it started to make some sense. Blue skies, -Pat Dirks.

Response:

ftp://ftp.cc.gatech.edu/pub/people/pas/air/e6b http://www.simtel.net/simtel.net/win3/engin-pre.html compuserve avsig libraries

Response:

Hi, I got a note from a Doug Ranz at IBM about a remarkably full-function flight planning spreadsheet. If anyone else is interested, you can grab a ftp://ftp.cc.gatech.edu/pub/people/pas/air/e6b http://www.simtel.net/simtel.net/win3/engin-pre.html compuserve avsig libraries The description is as follows: E6B v17 Flight Planning Aid for: Microsoft Excel 5 (.XLS) for Win 3.1, Win95 & Win/NT Lotus 1-2-3 r5 (.WK4) for Win 3.1 & Win95 Lotus 1-2-3 v2.1 (.WG2) for OS2 v2.11 & OS2/Warp Lotus 1-2-3 r2.1 (.WK1) for MS-DOS (by special request only) Airport database has entries for 22,000+ airports worldwide. Reports if your Intel Pentium has the (widely reported) math flaw. you enter: - ICAO airport ID - surface temp (optional) - winds aloft (optional) - aircraft performance profile E6B v17 calcs: - optimum enroute altitude for best speed (or economy) with alt correct for whether east/west-bound and whether ifr or vfr. - great circle distance - great circle mh (corrected using interpolated winds aloft) - density altitude - true airspeed - climb profile (distance, time & gs) - cruise profile (distance, time & gs) - descent profile (distance, time & gs) - leg time, fuel, gs & cost - trip time, fuel, gs & cost - sunrise/sunset - wet/dry freezing levels - airport runway, elev & ctaf info The author can’t contribute to netnews discussions but can be reached Blue Skies, -Patrick Penzias Dirks.

Response:

Hi, I’ve just updated my home page, and have added an easy to use flight-planning spreadsheet that has the look and feel of a standard navigation log. Do check it out under "Planning", in my home page http://www.geocities.com/~srid/flying.html -Sridhar Visit my homepage at http://www.geocities.com/~srid/flying.html !

Response:

If that link didn’t work (there seems to be some problem), try the following http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/1090/flying.html -Sridhar Hi, I’ve just updated my home page, and have added an easy to use flight-planning spreadsheet that has the look and feel of a standard navigation log. Do check it out under "Planning", in my home page http://www.geocities.com/~srid/flying.html -Sridhar Visit my homepage at http://www.geocities.com/~srid/flying.html !

– Visit my homepage at http://www.geocities.com/~srid/flying.html !

Response:

Looks OK Roger, but how do I download it to my Excel?. I can use it alright in explorer but cant save it to my own disk. ( was I meant to be allowed to do that?) Explorer crashes in the process of trying. And I figured the column headed CRS is the magnetic track, but what do the letters CRS stand for ( sorry if its obvious – I’m an Aussie and my American isnt as good as it should be). Eventually figured out the pressure height also, when I realised what the 29.92 was. Cant help wondering whos got the job of changing all the Cessna and Piper altimeter subsetting to mbars for us Aussies , or do they do that at the factory in the States? Dont know why we bother to be honest, if we can work in feet instead of meters we should be able to handle the inches of mercury. Regards Terry – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Got it! Damn parentheses. What a difference a ( ) makes. The corrected spreadsheet is at the original link: http://home.maine.rr.com/rlma/Flightplan.xls — Roger Long

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – other problems than anything else, is trying to get my parentheses in the right places. You should try writing a compiler <:-)) I have. It’s really not that complicated. Just a bunch of basic data structures. I’ve recently had the "opportunity" to work with the Scheme programming language. I’ve not heard of that, but I’ve been out of the business for over 5 years now. Lisp dialect. Lots of Irritating Spurious Parentheses. Been around much longer than 5 years. Post fix is, I believe the same as RPN and I’ve never successfully managed to use a calculator that used RPN. I remember doing planning for a solo cross-country, using my HP calculator to crunch the numbers for W&B. My instructor’s eyes glazed over. Talk about a user-unfriendly language. Try straight C using pointers and dynamic memory allocation. They call it a write only language for a reason. <:-)) Straight C lets you C is a friendly language. It’s just picky about whom it calls its friends.

It’s Powerful, elegant, and relatively simple in its structure. It’s relatively easy for one who has studied it to write some very powerful programs, but without thorough documentation I don’t think I’d ever call it friendly. <:-)) I’ve seen code that students turned in where it took more work to decipher than it did to write it. Course I saw a few students who could write Pascal that way too and it’s almost a plain language when it comes to source code. Roger Halstead (K8RI EN73 & ARRL Life Member) www.rogerhalstead.com N833R World’s oldest Debonair? (S# CD-2) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Morris

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other problems than anything else, is trying to get my parentheses in the right places. You should try writing a compiler <:-))

I have. It’s really not that complicated. Just a bunch of basic data structures. I’ve recently had the "opportunity" to work with the Scheme programming language. I’ve not heard of that, but I’ve been out of the business for over 5 years now.

Lisp dialect. Lots of Irritating Spurious Parentheses. Been around much longer than 5 years. Post fix is, I believe the same as RPN and I’ve never successfully managed to use a calculator that used RPN.

I remember doing planning for a solo cross-country, using my HP calculator to crunch the numbers for W&B. My instructor’s eyes glazed over. Talk about a user-unfriendly language. Try straight C using pointers and dynamic memory allocation. They call it a write only language for a reason. <:-)) Straight C lets you

C is a friendly language. It’s just picky about whom it calls its friends. Morris

Response:

For me, one of the biggest pains in programming, and the cause of more bugs and other problems than anything else, is trying to get my parentheses in the right places. If you use a modern user friendly editor like "vi", you can just hit "%" and it will take you to the matching paren, so you can see if they match up correctly.

Actually any recent incarnation of Excel does that without having to ask. You just have to watch what it’s telling you. Roger Halstead (K8RI EN73 & ARRL Life Member) www.rogerhalstead.com N833R World’s oldest Debonair? (S# CD-2)

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If you use a modern user friendly editor like "vi", you can just hit "%" and it will take you to the matching paren, so you can see if they match up correctly. Be careful, the only thing worse than the high wing-low wing debate is the vi-emacs debate.

Not to me…I don’t like either one of them.<:-)) and haven’t had to be concerned with them for over 5 years..er 6 years. I retired during Osh, at Osh in 97…Took my last week of work on vacation…and they still owed me for something like 90 days of vacation(give or take a couple) We weren’t allowed to carry over more than 10 days from one year to the next, but they made exceptions for those of us who lived with the computers. I only had one day off in my first two years back after college. All those years after I went back to work I carried a pager even on vacation. They even had me paged over the PA system at Oshkosh one year. Roger Halstead (K8RI EN73 & ARRL Life Member) www.rogerhalstead.com N833R World’s oldest Debonair? (S# CD-2) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – - awh (vi forever!)

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: Be careful, the only thing worse than the high wing-low wing debate is the : vi-emacs debate.

MacWrite forever, man! Peace! Rob

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: Be careful, the only thing worse than the high wing-low wing debate is the : vi-emacs debate. MacWrite forever, man! Peace! Rob

Troff rules.

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Got it! Damn parentheses. What a difference a ( ) makes.

I forget those every once in a while. <:-)), at least in spreadsheets. For me, one of the biggest pains in programming, and the cause of more bugs and

There is so much math required to become a programmer, I’d think that using parentheses would become second nature. Prefix, postfix, and infix. other problems than anything else, is trying to get my parentheses in the right places.

You should try writing a compiler <:-)) I’ve recently had the "opportunity" to work with the Scheme programming language.

I’ve not heard of that, but I’ve been out of the business for over 5 years now. What’s one of the key structural elements of its syntax? Parentheses!

Parenthesis is pretty important in most programming languages and in virtually all math that is done within the programs. It sets the order in which operations are performed. True the operators such as +, -, /, *, and ^ have their own precedence, but in the end they all bow to the parenthesis. In school we had a few exercises where we had to perform the same math using prefix, postfix, and infix. Now that got *really* confusing. I don’t think I could do all of them now. Actually that’s not true. I know I couldn’t do all of them now. <:-)) Post fix is, I believe the same as RPN and I’ve never successfully managed to use a calculator that used RPN. Talk about a user-unfriendly language.

Try straight C using pointers and dynamic memory allocation. They call it a write only language for a reason. <:-)) Straight C lets you do virtually anything with almost no type checking. You can add an integer to an address, to a pointer, to a piece of text and it won’t complain. More recent compilers let you turn on type checking, or more correctly they are set up for ANSI C and will allow you to turn the type checking off if you wish. Still…Write something in straight C without internal documentation and then go back six months later and try to follow what you wrote. It’s a relatively elegant language that lets you write very compact code, unlike the visual counterparts which are very easy to use, but generate "bloat code". Roger Halstead (K8RI EN73 & ARRL Life Member) www.rogerhalstead.com N833R World’s oldest Debonair? (S# CD-2) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Rich Lemert

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Or ‘cat’. The editor for those who don’t make mistakes Jeff… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – : If you use a modern user friendly editor like "vi", you can just hit "%" : and it will take you to the matching paren, so you can see if they match : up correctly. : : Be careful, the only thing worse than the high wing-low wing debate is the : vi-emacs debate. : : - awh : : (vi forever!) : Or vi vs. VMS’ edt debate, or unix vs. VMS. –Jerry Leslie (my opinions are strictly my own)

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Yes, it is a big problem– that is, until you’re mind is sufficiently expanded that you look at software in a whole new way and the parenthesis "dissolve" into the background. It’s almost a kind of a "magic-eye" sort of thing, IYSWIM. Good luck, hope you eventually "get it"

Indentation is your friend. Actually, this is related to an aviation topic: CRM. Why do some pilots highlight their route on a chart? Because this makes it far easier for the human eye to locate the route when first looking (back at) the chart. Absent this, various forms of mental processing are required. This takes time and effort. In programming, we’ve the same opportunity to do things in a way that reduces the need to "think" over trivia. Indentation is one good example. Whether you’re programming in a C derivative (in which case you must match braces), a LIST derivative (parens), a language with BEGINs and ENDs, or anything else, doing this "matching" involves work. Proper indentation makes this much easier, as a lexical block is made visually "obvious". It’s the equivilent of highlighting the route. Most modern editors will indent automatically, and even using colors or graphical markers to further enhance the display of the code. Using one of these is like shifting to the use of a moving map GPS. – Andrew

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Got it! Damn parentheses. What a difference a ( ) makes.

For me, one of the biggest pains in programming, and the cause of more bugs and other problems than anything else, is trying to get my parentheses in the right places. I’ve recently had the "opportunity" to work with the Scheme programming language. What’s one of the key structural elements of its syntax? Parentheses! Talk about a user-unfriendly language. Rich Lemert

Response:

For me, one of the biggest pains in programming, and the cause of more bugs and other problems than anything else, is trying to get my parentheses in the right places.

If you use a modern user friendly editor like "vi", you can just hit "%" and it will take you to the matching paren, so you can see if they match up correctly. — "How do you feel about women’s rights?" "I like either side of them." — Groucho Marx, 1890-1977

Response:

Got it! Damn parentheses. What a difference a ( ) makes. For me, one of the biggest pains in programming, and the cause of more bugs and other problems than anything else, is trying to get my parentheses in the right places. I’ve recently had the "opportunity" to work with the Scheme programming language. What’s one of the key structural elements of its syntax? Parentheses! Talk about a user-unfriendly language.

Response:

If you use a modern user friendly editor like "vi", you can just hit "%" and it will take you to the matching paren, so you can see if they match up correctly.

Be careful, the only thing worse than the high wing-low wing debate is the vi-emacs debate. - awh (vi forever!)

Response:

: If you use a modern user friendly editor like "vi", you can just hit "%" : and it will take you to the matching paren, so you can see if they match : up correctly. : : Be careful, the only thing worse than the high wing-low wing debate is the : vi-emacs debate. : : - awh : : (vi forever!) : Or vi vs. VMS’ edt debate, or unix vs. VMS. –Jerry Leslie (my opinions are strictly my own)

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I like putting in the distance, course data, etc. well ahead of time and then plugging in the weather information just before I go. Driving the Sporty’s E6B through it all is just too much work now that I’m no longer a student and don’t have to show my work to anyone. This spreadsheet should make it easier.

I’m not trying to throw cold water on your work but I guess I don’t see any advantage, Roger. Are you going to lug a laptop into the airplane to work the spreadsheet? You mentioned paper folded onto a clipboard. After you plug in the relevant info, how do you print it out — copy by pencil? So, I get this picture…. bags are loaded, preflight is done, now it’s time to call WXBRIEF. Uh oh, the winds at cruise altitude are 65 degrees off the nose and blowing 22 knots. Later on, just past midway on my cross-country, a check with flight watch reveals the winds have shifted around to 20 or so degrees off the nose and picked up 5 knots. In either of the above cases, a few movements of my whiz-wheel will tell me: (1) the mag course to follow to correct for the cross-wind to hold track, (2) the headwind(or tailwind) component and its affect on my ground speed, and (3) the change in fuel consumption. By reverse logic, I can use the whiz-wheel to estimate unknown wind directions and velocities I do my planning on the "Flight Planner" sheets provided by AOPA Air Safety Foundation. In addition to being handy for keeping all the information organized, it is a great memory tickler for getting all the information — a flight planning checklist, so to speak. I saw a favorably impressive demonstration of an electronic gizmo, like Sporty’s E6B. If it weren’t for batteries and LCD screen, I’d probably have one. For now, I use the calculator functions of the KLN-89B in the panel to back up my whiz-wheel. Do it the way it works best for you, Roger. What makes you warm and fuzzy makes flying the best. Regards, Casey

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Ah, I smell a philosophical difference. Since I’m not flying over trackless wastes, have Loran, GPS, VOR’s, finger on the sectional, etc., the plan is just that, a plan. Like a battle plan, it starts to degrade at first contact with reality. The purpose of the spreadsheet is to give me the best prediction of fuel burn, arrival times, and initial headings that can be generated a couple hours before leaving for the airport. The probability that conditions will change significantly is fairly low. Even lower is the probability that the conditions I encounter will exactly match the forecasts. Although the plan is a valuable guide to the flight and rough reality check on in-flight calculations, it’s really more of a "Pick me up at the airport at ____" tool than a "where am I now" tool. If I get a final briefing and find out that the winds are say 10% stronger and have veered 30 degrees, I probably wouldn’t rework the whole thing but just make top of the head adjustments to the numbers. Initial headings are just a convenience to help me settle down on the electric box’s "Direct to" pointer. Similarly, if I start running ahead or behind of my times to waypoints, I’ll just project ahead a similar approximate correction. The spreadsheet is not a substitute for the Wiz Wheel or Electronic E6B. If there is a significant change, say a 10 knot tailwind swinging around to a 25 knot headwind, I might sit down and rework the whole thing by hand with the blank sheets I carry in my flight bag. More likely, in that case, I’ll be worried about the time, just make an overall correction, and interpolate the rest as I go along. The plan, even though based on different wind assumptions, still makes those gut estimates easier. Since I don’t have a $1000 headset or Oregon Aero seats, I don’t fly very deep into my fuel reserves anyway. I have yet to find a reason to fiddle with the E6B in flight. There are too many other ways to get the same answers while keeping eyes outside the cockpit. Set your heading without wind correction, pick a landmark on the horizon, then pick one closer. Crab until they stay in line, then hold that course. Fly 10% of the distance to a waypoint and time it, now you know your arrival ETA. The most important VFR flight instrument is still the sectional on the lap and the fingernail. When the GPS blips off, or the panel goes dark, that’s what will get you down safely. — Roger Long

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There are still significant errors in ground speed. I’m trying to figure out why. — Roger Long

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You might take a look at how Excel defaults its degrees. I believe you may have to convert to Radians or something, versus leaving everything in regular ol’ compass degrees. –Brent – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – There are still significant errors in ground speed. I’m trying to figure out why. — Roger Long

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Got it! Damn parentheses. What a difference a ( ) makes. The corrected spreadsheet is at the original link: http://home.maine.rr.com/rlma/Flightplan.xls — Roger Long

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the . . We are on the same page, so to speak, even with minor philosophical differences. I guess I’m seeing you doing the reinventing/replowing/(other metaphors) thing. What’s wrong with the free service from DUATS? It doesn’t look like an Excell page, but like the Ragu commercial says: "It’s all in there." Perhaps the problem is I begrudge using my time that way. With that aside, I volunteer to beta-test the spreadsheet should you ask. Regards, Casey

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Hi, If you are interested, you can check out the excel spreadsheet that I created a few years ago. There is also a javascript version. http://www.geocities.com/sridhar007/flying.html -Sridhar – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Got it! Damn parentheses. What a difference a ( ) makes. The corrected spreadsheet is at the original link: http://home.maine.rr.com/rlma/Flightplan.xls — Roger Long

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message I’m working on an Excel spreadsheet to do flight planning using formulas from Ed Williams site: http://williams.best.vwh.net/avform.htm

I did this and then some with Excel. http://snow.prohosting.com/cryptwlf/flying/index.html I also hope to expand it when I have a bit more time. There is a lot of gotchas in doing all this in a spreadsheet. My actual personal version is at 1.11 and I’m still adding and changing things. I think I have most of the bugs fixed to where it shouldn’t be to bad. There is several gotcha type problems with doing as much as I did. I also plan on doing programs in either C++ or VB and eliminate the need for Excel.

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You might take a look at how Excel defaults its degrees. I believe you may have to convert to Radians or something, versus leaving everything in regular ol’ compass degrees.

To quote Excel Help: SIN(number) Number is the angle in radians for which you want the sine. Remark If your argument is in degrees, multiply it by PI()/180 or use the RADIANS function to convert it to radians. Roger Halstead (K8RI EN73 & ARRL Life Member) www.rogerhalstead.com N833R World’s oldest Debonair? (S# CD-2) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text —Brent There are still significant errors in ground speed. I’m trying to figure out why. — Roger Long

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I’m working on an Excel spreadsheet to do flight planning using formulas from Ed Williams site: http://williams.best.vwh.net/avform.htm Basically, it will duplicate what I used to do with an E6B and a paper form. The log is set up so that all the information needed in flight is on one half of an 8 1/2 x 11 sheet with the input data on the other half. You can then fold it in half and have the rest of a clipboard size kneeboard available for other stuff. I like putting in the distance, course data, etc. well ahead of time and then plugging in the weather information just before I go. Driving the Sporty’s E6B through it all is just too much work now that I’m no longer a student and don’t have to show my work to anyone. This spreadsheet should make it easier. (Yeah, I know there are all sorts of flight planners out there but I’m a tightwad. Besides, I like simple, homebrew stuff that I can set up the way I want.) I’ve got good agreement between the spreadsheet and the E6B on heading but a few percent disagreement on ground speed. I haven’t done a complete hand verification yet but the spreadsheet actually looks more accurate. When there is an exact headwind, the spreadsheet give the right answer while the E6B is off a couple knots. Does the Sporty’s E6B use some approximations? If anyone who is a wiz with formulas and Excel would like to take a look at this, I’d appreciate it. Anyone who wants, to play with it, further develop it, use it, whatever, feel free to download the in-progress file at: http://home.maine.rr.com/rlma/Flightplan.xls Strictly as-is, use at own risk, public domain. Just let me know if you have any corrections, ideas, or comments. — Roger Long

Response:

Will Too Many Tubes In Parallel Sound Bad?

admin — Thu, 29 May 2003 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

If you want to reach at least 25 Watts with a single-ended guitar amp, that means that you have to use several tubes in parallel.(maybe 4?)

Depends on the tube. So my question is if too many tubes in parallel will sound bad. I’ve heard somewhere that you lose dynamics if you connect too many in parallel. Is that true?

Where did you hear that? I wouldn’t expect a problem, unless you used random, un/mis-matched tubes. John noted that two tubes was barely louder than one. This makes sense. Doubling the power doesn’t raise the volume much. Remember, it takes 10x the power to double the volume. Doubling the power is mostly going to be noticeable as more headroom. Quadruple the power would be more noticeable. Finally, don’t forget that any design using more than two outputs at once into a single OT is running tubes in parallel. A 4 tube output stage has two tubes in parallel on either side of the OT. Several amps, of which the Ampeg SVT is teh best known, used three on each side of teh OT. The SVT was a bass amp, but had more dynamics than most people could stand (at least, close to it without earplugs 8^). At least one amp had *four* tubes on each side of the OT. It was a big, honking Fender. I’ve never heard one that I know of, but I’d like to. Ken Gilbert’s page on his the BAGA (big a** guitar amp) has 12 KT90s – two channels of three KT90s in P-P per side, with both channels slaved together. Worth checking out just for the pic of the tubes: http://www.ken-gilbert.com/images/tubes/kt90s.jpg -Miles

Response:

If you want to reach at least 25 Watts with a single-ended guitar amp, that means that you have to use several tubes in parallel.(maybe 4?) So my question is if too many tubes in parallel will sound bad. I’ve heard somewhere that you lose dynamics if you connect too many in parallel. Is that true? /

One of my curent works in progress is a parrallel SE amp with 6L6 output. The 6L6s will give you 25 watts if you push them abit. I had mine putting out 12 each, 11 watts is the published max. Lately I have been experimenting with SE Push Pull. Its and odd output, sounds more SE then Pushpull but less noise then SE, but noisier then Push Pull. It gives abit more volume, but It does not have the grit of the plain old SE output. The hardest part of makeing SE amps that run over 15 watts is getting a good output transformer that can handle it. I tested my amp through a hammond 125ESE and it handled the extra power fairly well, but you could hear the transformer distorting when the volume was maxed. Right now I have it with a 125ESE for each tube, each feeding their own speaker, I guess this makes it more of two seperate power amps fed by the same pre, but it sounds great. I will bring it back to a full parallel SE output when I find a 30 watt SE output transformer. For awhile I had it as a Parallel 6V6 output which really sounded great, but not enough volume. So I dumped the tube rect and went solid state to give the 6L6s a little more juice. The 6l6s sound more intresting to me, but then again the 6V6s sounded just like my standard 6V6 SE amp, just a little louder, and abit more grit. Adam

Response:

My latest homebrew started out as a switchable 1 or 2-6v6 in pentode (it’s now permanent triode) single-ended design. There wasn’t much volume difference either way (1 vs. 2 tubes).

plate impedance should be matched to the load for best power transfer (thevenin). I’m not surprised there wasn’t a difference as you weren’t using the extra current capacity. or were you? did you drop the primary impedance in half on the OT when running in parallel? — [species: human; planet: earth,milkyway(western spiral arm),alpha sector]

Response:

My latest homebrew started out as a switchable 1 or 2-6v6 in pentode (it’s now permanent triode) single-ended design. There wasn’t much volume difference either way (1 vs. 2 tubes). plate impedance should be matched to the load for best power transfer (thevenin). I’m not surprised there wasn’t a difference as you weren’t using the extra current capacity. or were you? did you drop the primary impedance in half on the OT when running in parallel?

Yes.

Response:

A couple of factors, the extra tubes are a tougher load for the driver, especially at high frequencies. Stability can be an issue, but grid snubbers are almost always enough. I don’t think you’ll have a problem, prefer a 12AT7 over AX7 for the driver. You could get close enough with one SE 6550. Two or three 6L6 or EL34 would do depending on how hard you’re willing to run them. What’d you have in mind for a tranny? Ron

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If you want to reach at least 25 Watts with a single-ended guitar amp, that means that you have to use several tubes in parallel.(maybe 4?) So my question is if too many tubes in parallel will sound bad. I’ve heard somewhere that you lose dynamics if you connect too many in parallel. Is that true? / One of my curent works in progress is a parrallel SE amp with 6L6 output. The 6L6s will give you 25 watts if you push them abit. I had mine putting out 12 each, 11 watts is the published max. Lately I have been experimenting with SE Push Pull. Its and odd output, sounds more SE then Pushpull but less noise then SE, but noisier then Push Pull. It gives abit more volume, but It does not have the grit of the plain old SE output. The hardest part of makeing SE amps that run over 15 watts is getting a good output transformer that can handle it. I tested my amp through a hammond 125ESE and it handled the extra power fairly well, but you could hear the transformer distorting when the volume was maxed. Right now I have it with a 125ESE for each tube, each feeding their own speaker, I guess this makes it more of two seperate power amps fed by the same pre, but it sounds great. I will bring it back to a full parallel SE output when I find a 30 watt SE output transformer. For awhile I had it as a Parallel 6V6 output which really sounded great, but not enough volume. So I dumped the tube rect and went solid state to give the 6L6s a little more juice. The 6l6s sound more intresting to me, but then again the 6V6s sounded just like my standard 6V6 SE amp, just a little louder, and abit more grit.

Fun project, what sort of pre and driver are you running? For the output tranny check out some of the DIY tube audio stuff. Some insanely expensive stuff out there, but also some very reasonable. When looking at them remember that their power ratings are based on things that don’t apply to guitar amps. The power ratings are based on triodes running buckets of current and saturating the core and frequency response down to low bass. The lowest note on a guitar is 80-some Hertz and there’s no 8 watt guitar amp that draws 80mA. What they call a 20W tranny will do 30 very, very well for us. Ron

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – One of my curent works in progress is a parrallel SE amp with 6L6 output. The 6L6s will give you 25 watts if you push them abit. I had mine putting out 12 each, 11 watts is the published max. Lately I have been experimenting with SE Push Pull. Its and odd output, sounds more SE then Pushpull but less noise then SE, but noisier then Push Pull. It gives abit more volume, but It does not have the grit of the plain old SE output. The hardest part of makeing SE amps that run over 15 watts is getting a good output transformer that can handle it. I tested my amp through a hammond 125ESE and it handled the extra power fairly well, but you could hear the transformer distorting when the volume was maxed. Right now I have it with a 125ESE for each tube, each feeding their own speaker, I guess this makes it more of two seperate power amps fed by the same pre, but it sounds great. I will bring it back to a full parallel SE output when I find a 30 watt SE output transformer. For awhile I had it as a Parallel 6V6 output which really sounded great, but not enough volume. So I dumped the tube rect and went solid state to give the 6L6s a little more juice. The 6l6s sound more intresting to me, but then again the 6V6s sounded just like my standard 6V6 SE amp, just a little louder, and abit more grit. Fun project, what sort of pre and driver are you running? For the output tranny check out some of the DIY tube audio stuff. Some insanely expensive stuff out there, but also some very reasonable. When looking at them remember that their power ratings are based on things that don’t apply to guitar amps. The power ratings are based on triodes running buckets of current and saturating the core and frequency response down to low bass. The lowest note on a guitar is 80-some Hertz and there’s no 8 watt guitar amp that draws 80mA. What they call a 20W tranny will do 30 very, very well for us. Ron

The preamp and driver changes alot, it started out alot like the VOX TB, and it has slowly become a nice sounding mess that gives you a headache to look at. Its running with a 6SL7 for the pre fallowed by the TB tone stack and that feeds both halves of aother 6SL7 and each half of the 6SL7 feeds its own 6L6. It changes every other week or so. Just haveing fun playing around with this amp. I take a peek into the audiophile DIY tube world everynow and then to look for a transformers and the such, but I allways end up at OTLs and trying to convince myself to buy a couple dozen 6AS7s (or are they 6SA7s?) and building a circlotron. I can wait on the output transformer untill I decide on the design anyways. But that will probably never happen. adam

Response:

So my question is if too many tubes in parallel will sound bad. I’ve heard somewhere that you lose dynamics if you connect too many in parallel. Is that true? I don’t know about losing dynamics from too many in parallel, but I will say that the only amp I have that uses a parallel pair (1952 Gibsonette) makes much less volume than any of my push-pull 2-6V6 powered amps. In fact, it is only slightly louder than my (1-6V6) Vibro-Champ.

I agree with John. My latest homebrew started out as a switchable 1 or 2-6v6 in pentode (it’s now permanent triode) single-ended design. There wasn’t much volume difference either way (1 vs. 2 tubes). I suspect I’ll try a low voltage (low power) 2-6v6 push pull next time. At least the hum and some of the noise will be lowered. I would guess a pair of EL34’s would get you pretty close to 25 watts, wouldn’t it? A pair of 6550’s would surely reach that power. I suspect you can lose dynamics (and alot more) if you don’t select the right output tranny for both DC bias and load impedance as you scale up. The right tranny will be big, heavy and expensive but if you go with the right one I would think dynamics and everything else would be just fine. Take care, stringbend

Response:

I don’t know about losing dynamics from too many in parallel, but I will say that the only amp I have that uses a parallel pair (1952 Gibsonette) makes much less volume than any of my push-pull 2-6V6 powered amps. In fact, it is only slightly louder than my (1-6V6) Vibro-Champ. Excellent question though! John King

Response:

: If you want to reach at least 25 Watts with a single-ended guitar amp, : that means that you have to use several tubes in parallel.(maybe 4?) No, not really. But if you use the most common designs and the most common tubes, you will probably parallel smaller tubes for increased power. It can be done with one tube…. just not common on the consumer electronics maket and expensive to make. : So my question is if too many tubes in parallel will sound bad. : I’ve heard somewhere that you lose dynamics if you connect too many in : parallel. Is that true? Tube C values sum in some designs. cheers skipp

Response:

what planes are flying route M-750 today?

admin — Mon, 03 Mar 2003 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

It’s 3:00 A.M. and every few minutes a plane goes by my house on air route M-750 here in Taiwan. Let’s say I am curious for more info on those planes than just looking at them in binoculars. Well, I won’t hear them on the radio, as their reporting points are far away at the FIR boundaries. Is there some net site that has their daily list? Or does one just do their best by say looking at lists of arrivals and departures for planes that might be using that route (or the parallel A-1 route, sigh)? Note that at night they are passing thru, not originating locally. — http://jidanni.org/ Taiwan(04)25854780

Response:

Try www.flightexplorer.com – personal edition… not sure if they cover flights to Asia though… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It’s 3:00 A.M. and every few minutes a plane goes by my house on air route M-750 here in Taiwan. Let’s say I am curious for more info on those planes than just looking at them in binoculars. Well, I won’t hear them on the radio, as their reporting points are far away at the FIR boundaries. Is there some net site that has their daily list? Or does one just do their best by say looking at lists of arrivals and departures for planes that might be using that route (or the parallel A-1 route, sigh)? Note that at night they are passing thru, not originating locally.

Response:

# Is there any way to map Mode-C or Mode-S transponder return data to # the actual flight? Mode-C will contain altitude and 4 octal digit # codes. Mode-S might contain more such as the transponder unique # identifier. # # I’m currently in the design phase of building a homebrew Mode-C # transponder decoder. Initially it will consist of a scanner and a PC. # I will tap the discriminator output and feed it into the PC’s sound # card. From there I will attempt to decode any signals. $ apt-cache show multimon Description: Linux Radio Transmission Decoder The multimon software can decode a variety of digital transmission modes commonly found on UHF radio. A standard PC soundcard is used… Maybe you can add onto that. — http://jidanni.org/ Taiwan(04)25854780

Response:

Try www.flightexplorer.com – personal edition… not sure if they cover flights to Asia though…

Me either, as that site just loops in the Mozilla browser. Well, I suppose I’ll have to find out the planes’ flight levels the hard way http://jidanni.org/comm/air/m750/north_pass_en.html using the stars. — http://jidanni.org/ Taiwan(04)25854780

Response:

Try www.flightexplorer.com – personal edition… not sure if they cover flights to Asia though… Me either, as that site just loops in the Mozilla browser.

It works for me in Mozilla. DGB

Response:

Is there any way to map Mode-C or Mode-S transponder return data to the actual flight? Mode-C will contain altitude and 4 octal digit codes. Mode-S might contain more such as the transponder unique identifier. I’m currently in the design phase of building a homebrew Mode-C transponder decoder. Initially it will consist of a scanner and a PC. I will tap the discriminator output and feed it into the PC’s sound card. From there I will attempt to decode any signals. SM

Response:

solar question

admin — Mon, 16 Dec 2002 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

The fridge will be running on butane, but it needs power for the internal lights, fans, etc…. Rick – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a 90 watt panel which is fine for lights and pump, but no way enough for the fridge. I use a solid state cooler for weekend trips on the road which works fine with the solar panel, 4 golf cart batteries and the alternator charge on the road. The batteries and solar panel will cover it with the pump, solid state cooler, a couple of fans, laptop computer and lights for a few days without draining the batteries too much. See: http://www.edsanders.com/solar/hotwater.htm I’ve added a bunch of links at the bottom of the page on solar electricity for my own use that you might find helpful. when dry camping. Im thinking a 32 watt???? Im not trying to run appliances, just power the lights, fridge, and pump. Is this enough? Also, do I need a regulator for this size panel? I would.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m looking for plans for a homebrew solar charger regulator. Does anyone have plans or know where I can get plans ? You might want to hook up an ammeter and try to find the leak first. If you are shutting off all the lights, the fridge, the furnace and the hot water heater, where is your discharge coming from? If you can set up an ammeter, you can start pulling fuses and figure out which circuit has the problem. I had a "Battery MOnitor" installed with my two solar panels, so I’d know what was going on. At night, (no sun to offset usage) with nothing turned on, I get absolutely ZERO draw. The fridge draws a portion of an amp when on propane, as do the other gas appliances, for their control circutry. See http://www.traceengineering.com/products/remotecontrols/TM500/index.html for info on my battery meter.

how about a buying club?

Response:

Sounds like time to disconnect the battery and see if it still runs down. Probably won’t. Check and see if there is a gas detector and if it is still on when all the breakers are off. Bill K7NOM – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I tried letting it sit with a full battery and all breakers thrown and it still discharged. BTW, the battery is new. I asked the dealer about the battery not lasting and he said that they all of the new trailers do this. My thought is that the converter hanging on the 12v system presents a small amount of loading. Probably the best thing, but not the easiest or most conenient would be to disconnect the trailer and connect the panel to the battery directly. Going bigger will also allow for an extended dry camp stay whereas the 5W will not. Rick You might want to hook up an ammeter and try to find the leak first. If you are shutting off all the lights, the fridge, the furnace and the hot water heater, where is your discharge coming from? If you can set up an ammeter, you can start pulling fuses and figure out which circuit has the problem.

Response:

This is true if you use a regulator circuit, but use of a DC to DC converter is much more effecient. The MC33063 is 86% efficient.

Response:

I do have a CO alarm which most likely is off of the battery. This makes lots of sense!!!!

Don’t forget that a DC TV set draws about 1 amp when OFF. Be sure to unplug the TV, not just turn it off. Bill

Response:

I have a 90 watt panel which is fine for lights and pump, but no way enough for the fridge. I use a solid state cooler for weekend trips on the road which works fine with the solar panel, 4 golf cart batteries and the alternator charge on the road. The batteries and solar panel will cover it with the pump, solid state cooler, a couple of fans, laptop computer and lights for a few days without draining the batteries too much. See: http://www.edsanders.com/solar/hotwater.htm I’ve added a bunch of links at the bottom of the page on solar electricity for my own use that you might find helpful. when dry camping. Im thinking a 32 watt???? Im not trying to run appliances, just power the lights, fridge, and pump. Is this enough? Also, do I need a regulator for this size panel?

I would.

Response:

I’m looking for plans for a homebrew solar charger regulator. Does anyone have plans or know where I can get plans ?

The simplest type involves little more than a series diode to block discharging when the panel voltage is lower than the battery voltage, and a parallel shunt device, probably a darlington transistor, triggered by a zener diode or simple voltage comparator circuit. An LED and series resistor in parallel with the regulator input detects PV output and indicates when shunt mode is active by switching off. The most sophisticated type, and the only other style worth considering, is a power-maximizing type. This uses a variable-voltage inverter to maximize power transfer, and requires a lot of finesse in the design to justify the extra cost and complexity. Only recommended for high-power systems, really. Steve * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

Response:

Since you can buy an off the shelf made for solar 4.5 amp regulator for $28, it hardly seems worth it unless you just like to tinker. — Electricity from the sun since 1979 http://www.windsun.com/ (info & specs) http://www.solar-electric.com/ (online store) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I found a kit for a universal battery charger. It is made by velleman-kit K7302 and sells for $13.00 It takes 18vdc input for a 12volt battery. It has selectable current charge rates of 50, 100,200,300 and 400ma.

Response:

I do have a CO alarm which most likely is off of the battery. This makes lots of sense!!!! Rick – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I tried letting it sit with a full battery and all breakers thrown and it still discharged. BTW, the battery is new. I asked the dealer about the battery not lasting and he said that they all of the new trailers do this. My thought is that the converter hanging on the 12v system presents a small amount of loading. Probably the best thing, but not the easiest or most conenient would be to disconnect the trailer and connect the panel to the battery directly. Going bigger will also allow for an extended dry camp stay whereas the 5W will not. Rick You may have a CO or gas alarm direct wired and not through the breakers. RV’n Ken in Las Vegas… Winter is almost over…. Planing summer trip.

Response:

I currently have a 5watt solar panel on a TT but the battery slowly drains when its not in use.

Em, something most be on, as that should keep the battery up just fine. I’d check and see what is on, if nothing is look for shorts. You -might- have a low current short I would like to install a bigger panel to keep the battery charged as well as re-charge the battery when dry camping. Im thinking a 32 watt???? Im not trying to run appliances, just power the lights, fridge, and pump. Is this enough?

Without a battery, no. With well.. I run two 15watt pannels and don’t run out of power over a 3-5 day span (being careful with the use). So I would say, maybe. Because your fridge would draw a -lot- of power. Also, do I need a regulator for this size panel?

Yes —– RV and Camping FAQ

Response:

Did you notice ‘Rick’s’ e-mail address? Yes, I did. And I also know that Camping world publishes a catalog, and that the panel I bought is in their catalog. I don’t know how much it would cost to ship it overseas, but then that information might be on their web site, n’est-ce pas?

OK you noticed the german part, did you also notice he works for one of the largest builders of solar panels? He was also asking for tech help, not a place to buy overpriced (and they are overpriced) panels. Which begs the question why he did ask inside the firm, but…. —– RV and Camping FAQ

Response:

JFYI, Im in California. My email goes thru an exchange server. I am checking to see if I get an employee discount on Siemens Solar! Rick – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Did you notice ‘Rick’s’ e-mail address? Yes, I did. And I also know that Camping world publishes a catalog, and that the panel I bought is in their catalog. I don’t know how much it would cost to ship it overseas, but then that information might be on their web site, n’est-ce pas? — * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

Response:

I found a kit for a universal battery charger. It is made by velleman-kit K7302 and sells for $13.00 It takes 18vdc input for a 12volt battery. It has selectable current charge rates of 50, 100,200,300 and 400ma.

Response:

I tried letting it sit with a full battery and all breakers thrown and it still discharged. BTW, the battery is new. I asked the dealer about the battery not lasting and he said that they all of the new trailers do this. My thought is that the converter hanging on the 12v system presents a small amount of loading. Probably the best thing, but not the easiest or most conenient would be to disconnect the trailer and connect the panel to the battery directly. Going bigger will also allow for an extended dry camp stay whereas the 5W will not. Rick – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – You might want to hook up an ammeter and try to find the leak first. If you are shutting off all the lights, the fridge, the furnace and the hot water heater, where is your discharge coming from? If you can set up an ammeter, you can start pulling fuses and figure out which circuit has the problem.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I tried letting it sit with a full battery and all breakers thrown and it still discharged. BTW, the battery is new. I asked the dealer about the battery not lasting and he said that they all of the new trailers do this. My thought is that the converter hanging on the 12v system presents a small amount of loading. Probably the best thing, but not the easiest or most conenient would be to disconnect the trailer and connect the panel to the battery directly. Going bigger will also allow for an extended dry camp stay whereas the 5W will not. Rick

You may have a CO or gas alarm direct wired and not through the breakers. RV’n Ken in Las Vegas… Winter is almost over…. Planing summer trip.

Response:

There are many solar regulators that will regulate down from 24 to 12 volts. The problem with doing so is that you lose over 1/2 of the power output of the panel. In other words, a 100 watt panel would only put in a little over 3 amps. — Electricity from the sun since 1979 http://www.windsun.com/ (info & specs) http://www.solar-electric.com/ (online store)

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m looking for plans for a homebrew solar charger regulator. Does anyone have plans or know where I can get plans ? go to www.motorola.com and search for MC33063. Its an IC that requires little extra circuitry that provides a DC to DC converter. 0-40V input with user adjustable regulated voltage output. May require current regulator on the converter output. I’m working on one now for my 24V panel. I decided to make one after failing to find a 24V to 12V regulator for solar panels. Parts on order. Give me a couple of weeks and I’ll have schematics for you.

Response:

I currently have a 5watt solar panel on a TT but the battery slowly drains when its not in use. I would like to install a bigger panel to keep the battery charged as well as re-charge the battery when dry camping. Im thinking a 32 watt???? Im not trying to run appliances, just power the lights, fridge, and pump. Is this enough? Also, do I need a regulator for this size panel?

You should use a regulator with ANY size panel to keep from overcharging the battery. By the way; I just bought a system from Camping World – about 20W if I recall, with a controller, for $170. People say, and I agree, that Camping World is pretty high priced, but I could not find a 20W panel for that price anywhere. — * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

Response:

Alan, Did you notice ‘Rick’s’ e-mail address? Mike, CA RVChem.net – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I currently have a 5watt solar panel on a TT but the battery slowly drains when its not in use. I would like to install a bigger panel to keep the battery charged as well as re-charge the battery when dry camping. Im thinking a 32 watt???? Im not trying to run appliances, just power the lights, fridge, and pump. Is this enough? Also, do I need a regulator for this size panel? You should use a regulator with ANY size panel to keep from overcharging the battery. By the way; I just bought a system from Camping World – about 20W if I recall, with a controller, for $170. People say, and I agree, that Camping World is pretty high priced, but I could not find a 20W panel for that price anywhere. — * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

Response:

Did you notice ‘Rick’s’ e-mail address?

Yes, I did. And I also know that Camping world publishes a catalog, and that the panel I bought is in their catalog. I don’t know how much it would cost to ship it overseas, but then that information might be on their web site, n’est-ce pas? — * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

Response:

Rick, You should be able to find the information you’re looking for at the Siemens Solar website at http://www.siemenssolar.com/ . Mike, CA RVChem.net – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I currently have a 5watt solar panel on a TT but the battery slowly drains when its not in use. I would like to install a bigger panel to keep the battery charged as well as re-charge the battery when dry camping. Im thinking a 32 watt???? Im not trying to run appliances, just power the lights, fridge, and pump. Is this enough? Also, do I need a regulator for this size panel? Thanks Rick

Response:

words: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – my remarks as follows: LZ If you are in an area where the wind is reliable, a wind generator is an option. Not too bulky and doesn’t care if the sun shines or not. I have one I bought in ‘99 and have yet to use. Think it is supposed to produce 400 watts max with a 28 MPH wind. People I’ve talked to that used them said they were happy with them. Will: Surely you jest. Wind-powerd generators for rv’s? I gotta tell ya that they are as useless as Oz (we usta say teats on a boar hawg) UNLESS all of the following apply: – you have a tall enuf tower to evade ground effect turbulence LZ: Those I have seen in use are usually only 12-15 ft up. Then you have seen some operating VERY inefficiently. I didn’t say they were perfect. At the locations I saw them they were producing the juice the owners needed. – you have the power needs of a pioneer family Think of it as an assist to solar panels. Fine – but be realistic. I live on a high ridge well above average terrain – my wind machines were idle MOST of the time. Try moving to the Colorado River valley in winter. That’s where they were in use. – the area is as perpetually windy as the Altamont (CA) pass Lots of places along the Colorado River have at least 10-15 knots daily in winter season. For how long? As a rule of thumb, wind power is simply not practical unless AVERAGE winds are 14-15 knots and higher. And if you propose to spend your winters along a CO river, blessings on you. Thousands of people do. Ever heard of Lake Havasu, Bullhead City, Parker and Yuma? – you & neighbors don’t mind the racket All I noticed was a ticking sound. If the wind doesn’t blow, you don’t even hear that! If a good gale gets going, the dang things will rase the dead. Perhaps you should read the specs I furnished? – you have the price of a good genset to spend I only paid about $450 for mine. You sure you know what you are talking about? My wife says it was more like $525. Here is the machine: http://www.solardyne.com/air403wingen.html Then you got what is essentially a toy with virtually no practical use for an rv’er – unless you ALWAYS perch your rig on a high peak or exposed windy ridge. In which case it WILL charge batteries on windy days. AS it happened I paid about tha in ’60’s $$$ for a 200w Wincharger. I think you need to do some climatology studies. My credentials: No degree, no license, no certificate on the wall. Just 10 years of hands-on experience including erecting a 95′ tower and running a pair of machines off & on during that period. Apparently they weren’t that well designed. Try modern technology with graphite blades and more efficient electronics. I make no pretense that the Wincharger was "well designed" – it was rugged & dependable but not efficient. My big machine was a 120v Jacobs, arguably one of the most dependable machines ever made in quantity. (Same type that ran at the South Pole for many years) Think I dunno what I’m talking about? Visit the DOE small wind machine test site at Rocky Flats in CO and find out for yourself. Why not visit dry camping spots along the Colorado river and talk to people who have them in operation? I don’t think they are part of their lawn ornament arrangement. Why not? Because I have figured out what I need to know about wind-powered generators. Only a fool keeps studying once he knows enough to make a decision. Sounds to me like you are talking about 20 year old technology. In another post you write: ::The small set I have will cut out and turn sideways at winds over a ::certain speed. It’s not designed for high speed winds but rather ::moderate speed ones. I think it starts generating at 7 MPH. Haven’t ::read the instruction book for several years though. At the risk of pissing you off, this proves you know next to nothing about wind power. Claims of machines that produce usable power under 10mph are almost always part of a overall campaign of deceptive advertising. So buy one so you can sue the company. In fact the web site you referenced is a classic example of the typical alternate energy dream peddlers ad copy. Look closely at the so-called performance curves. Assume they are correct if you like (something I doubt!), and tell me if you can how much power this machine produces at 10MPH – never mind 7 – in turbulent air. Get out there and RUN the dang thing if you think it is such hot stuff. After you’ve had a few weeks or months of EXPERIENCE, feel free to stand and signify. In the meantime I suggest you don’t make great leaps of faith on the basis of ad copy and testimonials. I bought mine after talking to a number of owners who had used them for two winters. They didn’t try to sell me theirs. Maybe they knew more than you do? At the time I was doing quite a bit of boondocking as I had not become addicted to surfing the net. As an addition to 6 solar panels I think it is a perfectly reasonable option. I am in no hurry to unload mine as I recently purchased a lake lot and may well put the wind generator in service this coming summer. LZ Will Sill BTDT

Ya know, I THOUGHT I remembered you as one of the pompous idjits I had previously filtered – it is starting to come back to me now. G’bye. Will Sill Spout bafflegab to infants, they giggle or cry Spout it on usenet, you get challenged.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – my remarks as follows: LZ If you are in an area where the wind is reliable, a wind generator is an option. Not too bulky and doesn’t care if the sun shines or not. I have one I bought in ‘99 and have yet to use. Think it is supposed to produce 400 watts max with a 28 MPH wind. People I’ve talked to that used them said they were happy with them. Will: Surely you jest. Wind-powerd generators for rv’s? I gotta tell ya that they are as useless as Oz (we usta say teats on a boar hawg) UNLESS all of the following apply: – you have a tall enuf tower to evade ground effect turbulence LZ: Those I have seen in use are usually only 12-15 ft up. Then you have seen some operating VERY inefficiently.

I didn’t say they were perfect. At the locations I saw them they were producing the juice the owners needed. – you have the power needs of a pioneer family Think of it as an assist to solar panels. Fine – but be realistic. I live on a high ridge well above average terrain – my wind machines were idle MOST of the time.

Try moving to the Colorado River valley in winter. That’s where they were in use. – the area is as perpetually windy as the Altamont (CA) pass Lots of places along the Colorado River have at least 10-15 knots daily in winter season. For how long? As a rule of thumb, wind power is simply not practical unless AVERAGE winds are 14-15 knots and higher. And if you propose to spend your winters along a CO river, blessings on you.

Thousands of people do. Ever heard of Lake Havasu, Bullhead City, Parker and Yuma? – you & neighbors don’t mind the racket All I noticed was a ticking sound. If the wind doesn’t blow, you don’t even hear that! If a good gale gets going, the dang things will rase the dead.

Perhaps you should read the specs I furnished? – you have the price of a good genset to spend I only paid about $450 for mine. You sure you know what you are talking about?

My wife says it was more like $525. Here is the machine: http://www.solardyne.com/air403wingen.html Then you got what is essentially a toy with virtually no practical use for an rv’er – unless you ALWAYS perch your rig on a high peak or exposed windy ridge. In which case it WILL charge batteries on windy days. AS it happened I paid about tha in ’60’s $$$ for a 200w Wincharger.

I think you need to do some climatology studies. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – My credentials: No degree, no license, no certificate on the wall. Just 10 years of hands-on experience including erecting a 95′ tower and running a pair of machines off & on during that period. Apparently they weren’t that well designed. Try modern technology with graphite blades and more efficient electronics. I make no pretense that the Wincharger was "well designed" – it was rugged & dependable but not efficient. My big machine was a 120v Jacobs, arguably one of the most dependable machines ever made in quantity. (Same type that ran at the South Pole for many years) Think I dunno what I’m talking about? Visit the DOE small wind machine test site at Rocky Flats in CO and find out for yourself. Why not visit dry camping spots along the Colorado river and talk to people who have them in operation? I don’t think they are part of their lawn ornament arrangement. Why not? Because I have figured out what I need to know about wind-powered generators. Only a fool keeps studying once he knows enough to make a decision.

Sounds to me like you are talking about 20 year old technology. In another post you write: ::The small set I have will cut out and turn sideways at winds over a ::certain speed. It’s not designed for high speed winds but rather ::moderate speed ones. I think it starts generating at 7 MPH. Haven’t ::read the instruction book for several years though. At the risk of pissing you off, this proves you know next to nothing about wind power. Claims of machines that produce usable power under 10mph are almost always part of a overall campaign of deceptive advertising.

So buy one so you can sue the company. In fact the web site you referenced is a classic example of the typical alternate energy dream peddlers ad copy. Look closely at the so-called performance curves. Assume they are correct if you like (something I doubt!), and tell me if you can how much power this machine produces at 10MPH – never mind 7 – in turbulent air. Get out there and RUN the dang thing if you think it is such hot stuff. After you’ve had a few weeks or months of EXPERIENCE, feel free to stand and signify. In the meantime I suggest you don’t make great leaps of faith on the basis of ad copy and testimonials.

I bought mine after talking to a number of owners who had used them for two winters. They didn’t try to sell me theirs. Maybe they knew more than you do? At the time I was doing quite a bit of boondocking as I had not become addicted to surfing the net. As an addition to 6 solar panels I think it is a perfectly reasonable option. I am in no hurry to unload mine as I recently purchased a lake lot and may well put the wind generator in service this coming summer. LZ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Will Sill BTDT

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – words: my remarks as follows: LZ If you are in an area where the wind is reliable, a wind generator is an option. Not too bulky and doesn’t care if the sun shines or not. I have one I bought in ‘99 and have yet to use. Think it is supposed to produce 400 watts max with a 28 MPH wind. People I’ve talked to that used them said they were happy with them. Will: Surely you jest. Wind-powerd generators for rv’s? I gotta tell ya that they are as useless as Oz (we usta say teats on a boar hawg) UNLESS all of the following apply: – you have a tall enuf tower to evade ground effect turbulence LZ: Those I have seen in use are usually only 12-15 ft up. Then you have seen some operating VERY inefficiently. I didn’t say they were perfect. At the locations I saw them they were producing the juice the owners needed. – you have the power needs of a pioneer family Think of it as an assist to solar panels. Fine – but be realistic. I live on a high ridge well above average terrain – my wind machines were idle MOST of the time. Try moving to the Colorado River valley in winter. That’s where they were in use. – the area is as perpetually windy as the Altamont (CA) pass Lots of places along the Colorado River have at least 10-15 knots daily in winter season. For how long? As a rule of thumb, wind power is simply not practical unless AVERAGE winds are 14-15 knots and higher. And if you propose to spend your winters along a CO river, blessings on you. Thousands of people do. Ever heard of Lake Havasu, Bullhead City, Parker and Yuma? – you & neighbors don’t mind the racket All I noticed was a ticking sound. If the wind doesn’t blow, you don’t even hear that! If a good gale gets going, the dang things will rase the dead. Perhaps you should read the specs I furnished? – you have the price of a good genset to spend I only paid about $450 for mine. You sure you know what you are talking about? My wife says it was more like $525. Here is the machine: http://www.solardyne.com/air403wingen.html Then you got what is essentially a toy with virtually no practical use for an rv’er – unless you ALWAYS perch your rig on a high peak or exposed windy ridge. In which case it WILL charge batteries on windy days. AS it happened I paid about tha in ’60’s $$$ for a 200w Wincharger. I think you need to do some climatology studies. My credentials: No degree, no license, no certificate on the wall. Just 10 years of hands-on experience including erecting a 95′ tower and running a pair of machines off & on during that period. Apparently they weren’t that well designed. Try modern technology with graphite blades and more efficient electronics. I make no pretense that the Wincharger was "well designed" – it was rugged & dependable but not efficient. My big machine was a 120v Jacobs, arguably one of the most dependable machines ever made in quantity. (Same type that ran at the South Pole for many years) Think I dunno what I’m talking about? Visit the DOE small wind machine test site at Rocky Flats in CO and find out for yourself. Why not visit dry camping spots along the Colorado river and talk to people who have them in operation? I don’t think they are part of their lawn ornament arrangement. Why not? Because I have figured out what I need to know about wind-powered generators. Only a fool keeps studying once he knows enough to make a decision. Sounds to me like you are talking about 20 year old technology. In another post you write: ::The small set I have will cut out and turn sideways at winds over a ::certain speed. It’s not designed for high speed winds but rather ::moderate speed ones. I think it starts generating at 7 MPH. Haven’t ::read the instruction book for several years though. At the risk of pissing you off, this proves you know next to nothing about wind power. Claims of machines that produce usable power under 10mph are almost always part of a overall campaign of deceptive advertising. So buy one so you can sue the company. In fact the web site you referenced is a classic example of the typical alternate energy dream peddlers ad copy. Look closely at the so-called performance curves. Assume they are correct if you like (something I doubt!), and tell me if you can how much power this machine produces at 10MPH – never mind 7 – in turbulent air. Get out there and RUN the dang thing if you think it is such hot stuff. After you’ve had a few weeks or months of EXPERIENCE, feel free to stand and signify. In the meantime I suggest you don’t make great leaps of faith on the basis of ad copy and testimonials. I bought mine after talking to a number of owners who had used them for two winters. They didn’t try to sell me theirs. Maybe they knew more than you do? At the time I was doing quite a bit of boondocking as I had not become addicted to surfing the net. As an addition to 6 solar panels I think it is a perfectly reasonable option. I am in no hurry to unload mine as I recently purchased a lake lot and may well put the wind generator in service this coming summer. LZ Will Sill BTDT Ya know, I THOUGHT I remembered you as one of the pompous idjits I had previously filtered – it is starting to come back to me now. G’bye.

You plonked me because your windy bullshit and know-it-all attitude was unsuccessful in running me off. Please make it permanent this time. Oh, and get up to speed on wind generators. The 1949 Ford was a great car in its day but obsolete now. LZ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Will Sill Spout bafflegab to infants, they giggle or cry Spout it on usenet, you get challenged.

Response:

http://www.e-marine-inc.com/products/wind_generators/airxmarine.html Here is the link to the wind machine I purchased in ‘99. LZ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Think I dunno what I’m talking about? Visit the DOE small wind machine test site at Rocky Flats in CO and find out for yourself. As a former windmill engineer with experience with machines as small as 400 watts to 400 KW, I have to agree with Will although perhaps with not so much absolutism. Regarding Rocky Flats, that is probably the worst test sites they could have picked to test small wind machines. It has a good average wind speed, but the problem with that is that the wind is quiet for days and then they get these 100 MPH winds tearing down out of the mountains that destroys everything in its path. The small set I have will cut out and turn sideways at winds over a certain speed. It’s not designed for high speed winds but rather moderate speed ones. I think it starts generating at 7 MPH. Haven’t read the instruction book for several years though. I generally don’t recommend wind machines because of the noise and the problems people have being their own utility. That said though, the small units mounted on sailboats seem to work pretty well. A unit big enough to be useful can be a pretty dangerous beast if you aren’t careful to take it down during storm winds. I had one friend who had his trailer skewered with a broken blade that came right down into his bedroom. The blades can sail a long way when they get loose. Then you have to deal with a machine with a very out of balance rotor. That will usually result in the tower coming down. The blades on mine are very narrow, made of graphite and look like knife blades. At the tip they are maybe 1" wide, at the base maybe 2". Sorry to be so pessimistic, but I think the right place for windmills is on a windfarm where regular maintenance by professionals can result in high reliability power. The last job I had was in the Altamont Pass in California working with thousands of machines. These little ones are supposed to be nearly maintenance free. What maintenance would be perform? I’ve seen the huge wind generators near Mojave in California and Minnesota has a lot of them along Buffalo Ridge but those monsters have very little in common with these small ones. These are designed to be portable and used with RVs. LZ Earle Rich Mont Vernon, NH

Response:

From what I’ve read about wind generators, Will, I’m not sure they’re as useful as you indicate. You’re reading must be quite limited. Wind power is quite viable under some conditions. My remarks were intended to highlight some reasons it wasn’t likely to be a big hit with most rv’ers. Will Sill

My reading on this subject has been quite limited. Maybe if I had included a

Response:

http://www.e-marine-inc.com/products/wind_generators/airxmarine.html Here is the link to the wind machine I purchased in ‘99. LZ

snipped Looks good LZ

Response:

From what I’ve read about wind generators, Will, I’m not sure they’re as useful as you indicate.

You’re reading must be quite limited. Wind power is quite viable under some conditions. My remarks were intended to highlight some reasons it wasn’t likely to be a big hit with most rv’ers. Will Sill

Response:

my remarks as follows: LZ If you are in an area where the wind is reliable, a wind generator is an option. Not too bulky and doesn’t care if the sun shines or not. I have one I bought in ‘99 and have yet to use. Think it is supposed to produce 400 watts max with a 28 MPH wind. People I’ve talked to that used them said they were happy with them.

Will: Surely you jest. Wind-powerd generators for rv’s? I gotta tell ya that they are as useless as Oz (we usta say teats on a boar hawg) UNLESS all of the following apply: – you have a tall enuf tower to evade ground effect turbulence

LZ: Those I have seen in use are usually only 12-15 ft up.

Then you have seen some operating VERY inefficiently. – you have the power needs of a pioneer family Think of it as an assist to solar panels.

Fine – but be realistic. I live on a high ridge well above average terrain – my wind machines were idle MOST of the time. – the area is as perpetually windy as the Altamont (CA) pass Lots of places along the Colorado River have at least 10-15 knots daily in winter season.

For how long? As a rule of thumb, wind power is simply not practical unless AVERAGE winds are 14-15 knots and higher. And if you propose to spend your winters along a CO river, blessings on you. – you & neighbors don’t mind the racket All I noticed was a ticking sound.

If the wind doesn’t blow, you don’t even hear that! If a good gale gets going, the dang things will rase the dead. – you have the price of a good genset to spend I only paid about $450 for mine. You sure you know what you are talking about?

Then you got what is essentially a toy with virtually no practical use for an rv’er – unless you ALWAYS perch your rig on a high peak or exposed windy ridge. In which case it WILL charge batteries on windy days. AS it happened I paid about tha in ’60’s $$$ for a 200w Wincharger. My credentials: No degree, no license, no certificate on the wall. Just 10 years of hands-on experience including erecting a 95′ tower and running a pair of machines off & on during that period. Apparently they weren’t that well designed. Try modern technology with graphite blades and more efficient electronics.

I make no pretense that the Wincharger was "well designed" – it was rugged & dependable but not efficient. My big machine was a 120v Jacobs, arguably one of the most dependable machines ever made in quantity. (Same type that ran at the South Pole for many years) Think I dunno what I’m talking about? Visit the DOE small wind machine test site at Rocky Flats in CO and find out for yourself. Why not visit dry camping spots along the Colorado river and talk to people who have them in operation? I don’t think they are part of their lawn ornament arrangement.

Why not? Because I have figured out what I need to know about wind-powered generators. Only a fool keeps studying once he knows enough to make a decision. In another post you write: ::The small set I have will cut out and turn sideways at winds over a ::certain speed. It’s not designed for high speed winds but rather ::moderate speed ones. I think it starts generating at 7 MPH. Haven’t ::read the instruction book for several years though. At the risk of pissing you off, this proves you know next to nothing about wind power. Claims of machines that produce usable power under 10mph are almost always part of a overall campaign of deceptive advertising. In fact the web site you referenced is a classic example of the typical alternate energy dream peddlers ad copy. Look closely at the so-called performance curves. Assume they are correct if you like (something I doubt!), and tell me if you can how much power this machine produces at 10MPH – never mind 7 – in turbulent air. Get out there and RUN the dang thing if you think it is such hot stuff. After you’ve had a few weeks or months of EXPERIENCE, feel free to stand and signify. In the meantime I suggest you don’t make great leaps of faith on the basis of ad copy and testimonials. Will Sill BTDT

Response:

words: If you are in an area where the wind is reliable, a wind generator is an option. Not too bulky and doesn’t care if the sun shines or not. I have one I bought in ‘99 and have yet to use. Think it is supposed to produce 400 watts max with a 28 MPH wind. People I’ve talked to that used them said they were happy with them.

Surely you just. Wind-powerd generators for rv’s? I gotta tell ya that they are as useless as Oz (we usta say teats on a boar hawg) UNLESS all of the following apply: – you have a tall enuf tower to evade ground effect turbulence – you have the power needs of a pioneer family – the area is as perpetually windy as the Altamont (CA) pass – you & neighbors don’t mind the racket – you have the price of a good genset to spend My credentials: No degree, no license, no certificate on the wall. Just 10 years of hands-on experience including erecting a 95′ tower and running a pair of machines off & on during that period. Think I dunno what I’m talking about? Visit the DOE small wind machine test site at Rocky Flats in CO and find out for yourself. Will Sill

Response:

Think I dunno what I’m talking about? Visit the DOE small wind machine test site at Rocky Flats in CO and find out for yourself.

As a former windmill engineer with experience with machines as small as 400 watts to 400 KW, I have to agree with Will although perhaps with not so much absolutism. Regarding Rocky Flats, that is probably the worst test sites they could have picked to test small wind machines. It has a good average wind speed, but the problem with that is that the wind is quiet for days and then they get these 100 MPH winds tearing down out of the mountains that destroys everything in its path. I generally don’t recommend wind machines because of the noise and the problems people have being their own utility. That said though, the small units mounted on sailboats seem to work pretty well. A unit big enough to be useful can be a pretty dangerous beast if you aren’t careful to take it down during storm winds. I had one friend who had his trailer skewered with a broken blade that came right down into his bedroom. The blades can sail a long way when they get loose. Then you have to deal with a machine with a very out of balance rotor. That will usually result in the tower coming down. Sorry to be so pessimistic, but I think the right place for windmills is on a windfarm where regular maintenance by professionals can result in high reliability power. The last job I had was in the Altamont Pass in California working with thousands of machines. Earle Rich Mont Vernon, NH

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – words: If you are in an area where the wind is reliable, a wind generator is an option. Not too bulky and doesn’t care if the sun shines or not. I have one I bought in ‘99 and have yet to use. Think it is supposed to produce 400 watts max with a 28 MPH wind. People I’ve talked to that used them said they were happy with them. Surely you just. Wind-powerd generators for rv’s? I gotta tell ya that they are as useless as Oz (we usta say teats on a boar hawg) UNLESS all of the following apply: – you have a tall enuf tower to evade ground effect turbulence – you have the power needs of a pioneer family – the area is as perpetually windy as the Altamont (CA) pass – you & neighbors don’t mind the racket – you have the price of a good genset to spend My credentials: No degree, no license, no certificate on the wall. Just 10 years of hands-on experience including erecting a 95′ tower and running a pair of machines off & on during that period. Think I dunno what I’m talking about? Visit the DOE small wind machine test site at Rocky Flats in CO and find out for yourself. Will Sill

From what I’ve read about wind generators, Will, I’m not sure they’re as useful as you indicate. CharlieG

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – words: If you are in an area where the wind is reliable, a wind generator is an option. Not too bulky and doesn’t care if the sun shines or not. I have one I bought in ‘99 and have yet to use. Think it is supposed to produce 400 watts max with a 28 MPH wind. People I’ve talked to that used them said they were happy with them. Surely you just. Wind-powerd generators for rv’s? I gotta tell ya that they are as useless as Oz (we usta say teats on a boar hawg) UNLESS all of the following apply: – you have a tall enuf tower to evade ground effect turbulence

Those I have seen in use are usually only 12-15 ft up. – you have the power needs of a pioneer family

Think of it as an assist to solar panels. – the area is as perpetually windy as the Altamont (CA) pass

Lots of places along the Colorado River have at least 10-15 knots daily in winter season. – you & neighbors don’t mind the racket

All I noticed was a ticking sound. – you have the price of a good genset to spend

I only paid about $450 for mine. You sure you know what you are talking about? My credentials: No degree, no license, no certificate on the wall. Just 10 years of hands-on experience including erecting a 95′ tower and running a pair of machines off & on during that period.

Apparently they weren’t that well designed. Try modern technology with graphite blades and more efficient electronics. Think I dunno what I’m talking about? Visit the DOE small wind machine test site at Rocky Flats in CO and find out for yourself.

Why not visit dry camping spots along the Colorado river and talk to people who have them in operation? I don’t think they are part of their lawn ornament arrangement. LZ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Will Sill

Response:

Think I dunno what I’m talking about? Visit the DOE small wind machine test site at Rocky Flats in CO and find out for yourself. As a former windmill engineer with experience with machines as small as 400 watts to 400 KW, I have to agree with Will although perhaps with not so much absolutism. Regarding Rocky Flats, that is probably the worst test sites they could have picked to test small wind machines. It has a good average wind speed, but the problem with that is that the wind is quiet for days and then they get these 100 MPH winds tearing down out of the mountains that destroys everything in its path.

The small set I have will cut out and turn sideways at winds over a certain speed. It’s not designed for high speed winds but rather moderate speed ones. I think it starts generating at 7 MPH. Haven’t read the instruction book for several years though. I generally don’t recommend wind machines because of the noise and the problems people have being their own utility. That said though, the small units mounted on sailboats seem to work pretty well. A unit big enough to be useful can be a pretty dangerous beast if you aren’t careful to take it down during storm winds. I had one friend who had his trailer skewered with a broken blade that came right down into his bedroom. The blades can sail a long way when they get loose. Then you have to deal with a machine with a very out of balance rotor. That will usually result in the tower coming down.

The blades on mine are very narrow, made of graphite and look like knife blades. At the tip they are maybe 1" wide, at the base maybe 2". Sorry to be so pessimistic, but I think the right place for windmills is on a windfarm where regular maintenance by professionals can result in high reliability power. The last job I had was in the Altamont Pass in California working with thousands of machines.

These little ones are supposed to be nearly maintenance free. What maintenance would be perform? I’ve seen the huge wind generators near Mojave in California and Minnesota has a lot of them along Buffalo Ridge but those monsters have very little in common with these small ones. These are designed to be portable and used with RVs. LZ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Earle Rich Mont Vernon, NH

Response:

How many nominal watts of solar panel (or square feet) are needed to get 1kw-hr/day If they are pointed straight up? The vehicle will be south of 30 degrees latitude. My estimates indicate a pretty big array is needed. Like winter at 30 degrees N latitude will only yield about 200-250 watt-hr/sq meter-day. Summer would give about 600 watt-hr/sq meter-day on a sunny day. Four or five square meters of solar cells is a lot of cells! I’ll have to pretty much cover my roof.

Response:

Hello Dave & all; I can answer this, but I’m going to need a bit more info. The typically accepted value for solar insolation (the amount of solar energy falling upon) any given square meter of dirt on this ball of rock is about 1kw. This number is for a pretty near "perfect" day, and will fall off rapidly for increases in latitude, and atmospheric attenuators–rain & fog for instance (the actual insolation value is a bit over a kw/m^2). Now you multiply that value by the efficiency of your cells. The best cells available today can yield more than 30%. Most of the cells in general use yield in the neighborhood of 20-25%. Keep in mind that round cells, by virtue of their inability to be "packed", will lose another 30% or so per unit of area. So your 200-250 w/m^2 are pretty close for a good array, squared cells, clean face, and in good condition. That’s the value you’ll get by pointing directly at the sun. As the sun moves, and the oblique angle of the rays through the atmosphere increase, or the array isn’t driven to be perpendicular to the sun; output will fall off (dramatically). On the typical winter day in the medium latitudes (weather permitting, of course), you can expect 6 hours of output, with the peak around noon or so… You wrote "… to get 1kw-hr/day …". Is that 1kwh of power over the course of the day? Or 1kwh/hr over the course of that same day? If the former, then a 1 m^2 array will be pretty close. If the latter, then you’re gonna need to add 23 times as many cells (and the controllers and batteries to deal with them as well). Hope this helped and I was clear enough… Best regards all, Dusty Bleher San Jose, Ca.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – How many nominal watts of solar panel (or square feet) are needed to get 1kw-hr/day If they are pointed straight up? The vehicle will be south of 30 degrees latitude. My estimates indicate a pretty big array is needed. Like winter at 30 degrees N latitude will only yield about 200-250 watt-hr/sq meter-day. Summer would give about 600 watt-hr/sq meter-day on a sunny day. Four or five square meters of solar cells is a lot of cells! I’ll have to pretty much cover my roof.

Response:

Is that 1kwh of power over the course of the day? Or 1kwh/hr over the course of that same day? ….

Dusty, Thanks for your response. I meant 1kwh/day total. Using data on insolation for a horizontal collector found at: http://rredc.nrel.gov/solar/old_data/nsrdb/redbook/atlas/ and figuring that a "100W" panel gives 100Watts at noon (1kw/sq meter) when pointed straight at the sun, it turns out that for Florida or the Southwest in January about four panels are needed. Three if you can point them at the sun. The data at the nrel website is averages so power storage will be needed to average 1kw-hr/day. I think I’ll insulate my fridge better & maybe keep a lot of ice in it to help make it thru cloudy days. It is my main energy cost.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Is that 1kwh of power over the course of the day? Or 1kwh/hr over the course of that same day? …. Dusty, Thanks for your response. I meant 1kwh/day total. Using data on insolation for a horizontal collector found at: http://rredc.nrel.gov/solar/old_data/nsrdb/redbook/atlas/ and figuring that a "100W" panel gives 100Watts at noon (1kw/sq meter) when pointed straight at the sun, it turns out that for Florida or the Southwest in January about four panels are needed. Three if you can point them at the sun. The data at the nrel website is averages so power storage will be needed to average 1kw-hr/day. I think I’ll insulate my fridge better & maybe keep a lot of ice in it to help make it thru cloudy days. It is my main energy cost.

If you are in an area where the wind is reliable, a wind generator is an option. Not too bulky and doesn’t care if the sun shines or not. I have one I bought in ‘99 and have yet to use. Think it is supposed to produce 400 watts max with a 28 MPH wind. People I’ve talked to that used them said they were happy with them. LZ

Response:

Blue laws by state?

admin — Thu, 28 Nov 2002 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

Thank you! From the Aussies I’ve met in my travels thus far (All fantastic people), my Impression of Australia is (though I haven’t been there yet) as follows A lot like canada but without the snow. Lots of beer. John – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – G’day, have a look at http://www.immi.gov.au/ it may help Is it hard to immigrate to Australia? (ie get Aussie citizenship as well)? — regards Papasnail http://www.leslieweir.com The move from a structuralist account in which capital is understood to structure social relations in relatively homologous ways to a view of hegemony in which power relations are subject to repetition, convergence, and rearticulation brought the question of temporality into the thinking of structure, and marked a shift from a form of Althusserian theory that takes structural totalities as theoretical objects to one in which the insights into the contingent possibility of structure inaugurate a renewed conception of hegemony as bound up with the contingent sites and strategies of the rearticulation of power.

Response:

Indiana, outlined in article 7.5 of the Indiana State Code. alcohol is permitted to be sold 7a.m through 3a.m monday through saturday. Sunday it is not legal to sell any carry out alcohol. You can go to bars and restaurants and drink there though, until midnight sunday (((the bar has to serve food to be able to serve alcohol on sunday))). We have no low point alcohol restrictions. technically you can buy on sunday from 12a.m to 3a.m ((but it is easier to consider this times slot ’saturday night’ rather than ’sunday morning’.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hey guys (and gals) — We’re about to move and I’m sizing up a number of states we picked as potential destinations. As crazy as this sounds, one of my criteria is a state WITHOUT "blue laws"… where I can find a good pub on a Sunday night, or buy a good IPA after 9 pm, etc. Blue laws are an annoyance since much of my time off is on Sunday. Is there a state-by-state breakdown ANYWHERE of blue-law status in each state? I realize a lot of this varies according to county, but there has to be some way of summarizing each state. Still trying to search the Web for such info. At the very least, perhaps a description of how blue laws vary throughout New England would be good. I guess the answer is "move to Las Vegas", but that’s not on our list! :^) MJ

Response:

yup – replace snow with sand.

Response:

John Misrahi wrote … From the Aussies I’ve met in my travels thus far (All fantastic people), my Impression of Australia is (though I haven’t been there yet) as follows A lot like canada but without the snow. Lots of beer.

Just about spot on. Not that Canada doesn’t have lots beer, of course. My Canajun wife would also agree – and doesn’t miss the snow one little bit. Especially since she experienced a summer Christmas on the beach eating prawns and crayfish and drinking a chilled NZ Sauvignon Blanc.

Response:

Oh of course, we do. I think love of beer is pretty mutual. Yeah, i think when i’m done university I may look for a warmer place to live at least for a few years. I don’t mind snow. It’s the shoveling that gets to me. And the cold. And the slush. And getting sprayed with slush by buses passing you by. And the road salt that ruins your shoes….and…. Thing is, most of the hot sunny countries seem to be the most screwed (Socially, politically etc..) up as well, so Australia seems rather special. John – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Just about spot on. Not that Canada doesn’t have lots beer, of course. My Canajun wife would also agree – and doesn’t miss the snow one little bit. Especially since she experienced a summer Christmas on the beach eating prawns and crayfish and drinking a chilled NZ Sauvignon Blanc.

Response:

Didn’t you meeet a couple "real friendly" aussie girls on the rock, a while back? ;-D Paul – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Thank you! From the Aussies I’ve met in my travels thus far (All fantastic people), my Impression of Australia is (though I haven’t been there yet) as follows A lot like canada but without the snow. Lots of beer. John G’day, have a look at http://www.immi.gov.au/ it may help Is it hard to immigrate to Australia? (ie get Aussie citizenship as well)? — regards Papasnail http://www.leslieweir.com The move from a structuralist account in which capital is understood to structure social relations in relatively homologous ways to a view of hegemony in which power relations are subject to repetition, convergence, and rearticulation brought the question of temporality into the thinking of structure, and marked a shift from a form of Althusserian theory that takes structural totalities as theoretical objects to one in which the insights into the contingent possibility of structure inaugurate a renewed conception of hegemony as bound up with the contingent sites and strategies of the rearticulation of power.

Response:

When I was in Arizona recently, I was mildly surprised to see all types of alcoholic substances for sale in the grocery stores. I even saw a gift pack of Knob Creek Bourbon with 2 collector’s shot glasses for sale in a Safeway– a full fifth, even! –for $19.00!!! I bought a fifth here in Oregon last March for our 21st anniversary and spent $32.00. — –DAsh obvious with attbi)

Response:

I don’t believe for a moment that you are the immediate past Prime Minister of Australia.

Hey Paul, I told you on the mailing list that "Paul Keating" was some well-known politician in Aussie-land, I had no idea he was quite this well known, though cheers, -Alan

Response:

Hmmm….. A newfie prime minister of Australia? no , I won’t..there’s just too many possible jokes buried in that which should remain buried.. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I don’t believe for a moment that you are the immediate past Prime Minister of Australia. Hey Paul, I told you on the mailing list that "Paul Keating" was some well-known politician in Aussie-land, I had no idea he was quite this well known, though cheers, -Alan

Response:

HMm….now that you mention it Paul, yes, I did! Gee, i almost *forgot* about that… The next time our paths cross I could give alll the sordid details, but it;s not something for a family NG. John – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Didn’t you meeet a couple "real friendly" aussie girls on the rock, a while back? ;-D Paul Thank you! From the Aussies I’ve met in my travels thus far (All fantastic people), my Impression of Australia is (though I haven’t been there yet) as follows A lot like canada but without the snow. Lots of beer. John

Response:

Say, how’s the new job, Paul? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Didn’t you meeet a couple "real friendly" aussie girls on the rock, a while back? ;-D Paul Thank you! From the Aussies I’ve met in my travels thus far (All fantastic people), my Impression of Australia is (though I haven’t been there yet) as follows A lot like canada but without the snow. Lots of beer. John

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -G’day, have a look at http://www.immi.gov.au/ it may help Is it hard to immigrate to Australia? (ie get Aussie citizenship as well)? — regards Papasnail http://www.leslieweir.com The move from a structuralist account in which capital is understood to structure social relations in relatively homologous ways to a view of hegemony in which power relations are subject to repetition, convergence, and rearticulation brought the question of temporality into the thinking of structure, and marked a shift from a form of Althusserian theory that takes structural totalities as theoretical objects to one in which the insights into the contingent possibility of structure inaugurate a renewed conception of hegemony as bound up with the contingent sites and strategies of the rearticulation of power.

Response:

I don’t believe for a moment that you are the immediate past Prime Minister of Australia.

Response:

G’day, have a look at http://www.immi.gov.au/ it may help Is it hard to immigrate to Australia? (ie get Aussie citizenship as well)?

– regards Papasnail http://www.leslieweir.com The move from a structuralist account in which capital is understood to structure social relations in relatively homologous ways to a view of hegemony in which power relations are subject to repetition, convergence, and rearticulation brought the question of temporality into the thinking of structure, and marked a shift from a form of Althusserian theory that takes structural totalities as theoretical objects to one in which the insights into the contingent possibility of structure inaugurate a renewed conception of hegemony as bound up with the contingent sites and strategies of the rearticulation of power.

Response:

Is it hard to immigrate to Australia? (ie get Aussie citizenship as well)?

My understanding is that yes, it is. If I am not mistaken they have a point system like New Zealand where you get points for various things like having specific trades, being married, having a kid, yadda, yadda, yadda. A buddy of mine tried to immigrate to NZ a few years ago so I got to know a fair bit about the ins and outs of it all. If I am not mistaken NZ based their system on Australia’s. But if you have a university education and a skill that is in demand, that gives you quite a bit of points. cheers, -Alan

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Is it hard to immigrate to Australia? (ie get Aussie citizenship as well)? My understanding is that yes, it is. If I am not mistaken they have a point system like New Zealand where you get points for various things like having specific trades, being married, having a kid, yadda, yadda, yadda. A buddy of mine tried to immigrate to NZ a few years ago so I got to know a fair bit about the ins and outs of it all. If I am not mistaken NZ based their system on Australia’s. But if you have a university education and a skill that is in demand, that gives you quite a bit of points. cheers, -Alan

Wish we had that system in the US…

Response:

Hey guys (and gals) — We’re about to move and I’m sizing up a number of states we picked as potential destinations.

You’ve decided to change states *before* you know where you’re going? :-) Why, may I ask? As crazy as this sounds, one of my criteria is a state WITHOUT "blue laws"… where I can find a good pub on a Sunday night, or buy a good IPA after 9 pm, etc. Blue laws are an annoyance since much of my time off is on Sunday. Is there a state-by-state breakdown ANYWHERE of blue-law status in each state?

Most States in Australia would match your criteria. I live in Canberra, A.C.T. (Australian Capital Territory – kinda like D.C. but larger area, tiny population and *very* much less crime) which is even better in that regard. *And* it has one of the best homebrew shops ever ;-) Cheers Richard F.

Response:

Is it hard to immigrate to Australia? (ie get Aussie citizenship as well)? John – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Most States in Australia would match your criteria. I live in Canberra, A.C.T. (Australian Capital Territory – kinda like D.C. but larger area, tiny population and *very* much less crime) which is even better in that regard. *And* it has one of the best homebrew shops ever ;-) Cheers Richard F.

Response:

Massachusetts it varies by city/town. Bars in Boston are open till 2am, but down on the Cape they close at 1am. Same for liquor stores. Some towns are open till 11pm, others close at 10, some even at 9. Although in Quincy there are some liquor stores that close at 9pm, but others that are open till 11pm. There are also a few towns that wont allow a liquor store to open up for business, but they allow restaurants to serve alcohol. Yes thats right you can drive your car to a restaurant to get drunk then drive home, but you can’t drive your car to a liquor store to get the alcohol to bring home and get drunk in your own home (within town limits that is). I think there are only 1 or 2 towns that have this policy though. On the other hand they can’t stop you from going to the next town to buy the alcohol though. . I also know that in Woburn, MA if your having a drink at the restaurants bar waiting for your table and your table becomes available, but your not done with your drink, the waitress has to take your drink from you and bring it to your table for you. You can’t bring your own drink to your table. Yes there are still some very very stupid by-laws in the great state of Massachusetts. Liquor stores in Mass are closed Sundays, except between Thanksgiving and New Years or in towns that border New Hampshire. New Hampshire liquor stores are open on Sundays year round, but I don’t know about hours of operation. In Connecticut liquor stores close at 8pm. I don’t know about bars. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hey guys (and gals) — We’re about to move and I’m sizing up a number of states we picked as potential destinations. As crazy as this sounds, one of my criteria is a state WITHOUT "blue laws"… where I can find a good pub on a Sunday night, or buy a good IPA after 9 pm, etc. Blue laws are an annoyance since much of my time off is on Sunday. Is there a state-by-state breakdown ANYWHERE of blue-law status in each state? I realize a lot of this varies according to county, but there has to be some way of summarizing each state. Still trying to search the Web for such info. At the very least, perhaps a description of how blue laws vary throughout New England would be good. I guess the answer is "move to Las Vegas", but that’s not on our list! :^) MJ

Response:

I wouldn’t be so concerned with Blue Laws as with alcohol restrictions. Most of the Bible belt is under some sort of restrictions on alcohol content. As far as blue laws, most in the South allows selling till 2am, and purchasing as early as 7 am, except on Sundays where purchasing begins about noon. Cheers, Mike

Response:

Hey guys (and gals) — We’re about to move and I’m sizing up a number of states we picked as potential destinations. As crazy as this sounds, one of my criteria is a state WITHOUT "blue laws"… where I can find a good pub on a Sunday night, or buy a good IPA after 9 pm, etc. Blue laws are an annoyance since much of my time off is on Sunday. Is there a state-by-state breakdown ANYWHERE of blue-law status in each state? I realize a lot of this varies according to county, but there has to be some way of summarizing each state. Still trying to search the Web for such info. At the very least, perhaps a description of how blue laws vary throughout New England would be good. I guess the answer is "move to Las Vegas", but that’s not on our list! :^) MJ

Response:

RootBeer

admin — Tue, 12 Nov 2002 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

most any grocery store will carry root beer concentrate. Most winemaking supply shops have several kinds. Two suggestions. Use about twice the concentrate per volume of water as recommended. It will make a better, richer root beer. Also, if you bottle in glass (Grolsch bottles for example), make several bottles in plastic. Plastic soda bottles work very nicely. When the plastic gets really hard, put the whole batch in the fridge to stop the ferment. The plastic bottles serve as a telltale when the batch is done. If you don’t do this, you risk exploding bottles if you leave the ferment go too long. Trust me on this one.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I know this is a little off topic but if you can please help me out. I have been a reader of this group for sometime now and have made many kits as well as many scratch wines. I would eventually like to try a champange but first I really would like to make some RootBeer like my parents made when i was a kid. The only problem is, do you think I can find any RootBeer extract anywhere? I have looked high and low and can not find any. The wine stores close to me cant even find any (who would of thought) Anyway I bring this to the readers of this news group. If you have made or do make homemade RootBeer and you know where I can get some or order some good RootBeer extract please let me know. Also if you have any tips on homemade RootBeer feel free to drop me a line. I would love to hear from anyone. Thank you in advance. Jay

Response:

You can reuse the caps. A better idea, if you have a keg system is to make or buy a carbonator cap. They are available at homebrew stores for $12-$14. However you can make them at a fraction of the cost. What you’ll need: The cap from your bottle A tire valve from the auto parts store (rubber or metal works the same) A drill bit sized for the valve Pliers Air chuck What you’ll need to do: Drill a hole in the cap of the bottle Insert valve from inside using pliers if necessary You’ll need to attach the air chuck to the hose of your CO2 tank to make the connection between bottle and tank. Chill your beverage (cooler is better) and apply CO2 to about 3 – 4 volumes while shaking for several minutes. Return bottle to fridge to settle. Open, pour, and enjoy. You also don’t even need a carbonating cap for every bottle. After your beverage is well carbonated you can switch out the carbonating cap for a regular one. The benefit of this system is you can basically carbonate anything that you can get into the bottle. I’ve heard of people carbonating grapes even. You can adjust the carbonation to your taste. You don’t need to deal with yeast or the yeasty flavor normally associated with that carbonation method. No bottle bombs. It’s easy to "top-off" the carbonation if a beverage goes flat. And best of all you can enjoy your beverages soon after you make them. No need to wait a week or plan your consumption a week a head of time.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Now that is a great suggestion. Too often I have found out that I had waited to long when the first bottle blew. Do you use the same screw top that came off the bottle or do you get new ones somehow? It has been a while but I may go back and make some batches again. Ray

Response:

I use to be able to get Hires Root Beer Extract at the grocery store. If you can’t find it there, any WineMaking Shop. If you don’t have one, try any on line WineMaking store. I have made it with good results. Ray

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – in I know this is a little off topic but if you can please help me out. I have been a reader of this group for sometime now and have made many kits as well as many scratch wines. I would eventually like to try a champange but first I really would like to make some RootBeer like my parents made when i was a kid. The only problem is, do you think I can find any RootBeer extract anywhere? I have looked high and low and can not find any. The wine stores close to me cant even find any (who would of thought) Anyway I bring this to the readers of this news group. If you have made or do make homemade RootBeer and you know where I can get some or order some good RootBeer extract please let me know. Also if you have any tips on homemade RootBeer feel free to drop me a line. I would love to hear from anyone. Thank you in advance. Jay Jay, The local shop I get my stuff from here in Nampa, ID has it, at around $3 for a bottle if I remember correctly. 1 bottle is enough for 4 gallons. They also have lemon-lime, creme soda, orange, and a bunch of other soda extracts/flavorings. I don’t have the address or phone number here at work, but if you e-mail me (remove the obvious anti-spam part of the address) I will get the information to you when I get home. If nothing else, I can pick some up and send it to you and you can paypal me over the cost. Jeremy — Jeremy Hall Imagine being able to speak with a lawyer for less than the price of a cup of coffee each day… Impossible? It was, until now. E-mail me for details.

Response:

I know this is a little off topic but if you can please help me out. I have been a reader of this group for sometime now and have made many kits as well as many scratch wines. I would eventually like to try a champange but first I really would like to make some RootBeer like my parents made when i was a kid. The only problem is, do you think I can find any RootBeer extract anywhere? I have looked high and low and can not find any. The wine stores close to me cant even find any (who would of thought) Anyway I bring this to the readers of this news group. If you have made or do make homemade RootBeer and you know where I can get some or order some good RootBeer extract please let me know. Also if you have any tips on homemade RootBeer feel free to drop me a line. I would love to hear from anyone. Thank you in advance. Jay

Response:

Jay, The local shop I get my stuff from here in Nampa, ID has it, at around $3 for a bottle if I remember correctly. 1 bottle is enough for 4 gallons. They also have lemon-lime, creme soda, orange, and a bunch of other soda extracts/flavorings. I don’t have the address or phone number here at work, but if you e-mail me (remove the obvious anti-spam part of the address) I will get the information to you when I get home. If nothing else, I can pick some up and send it to you and you can paypal me over the cost. Jeremy — Jeremy Hall Imagine being able to speak with a lawyer for less than the price of a cup of coffee each day… Impossible? It was, until now. E-mail me for details.

Response:

9/11

admin — Wed, 11 Sep 2002 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

One year ago today, as events unfolded, we lost a few good homebrewers. Let’s all honor their lives by tipping a few of our best in their memory. Let the swing cap slap you in the chin as you pound one for America. That’s what homebrewers enjoy the most. Let’s all show the enemy that they can not and will not frighten us. We all have the homebrew and we will not be sharing it with them. Let them drink their sand. Pork, with the SWING-TOP slappy happy on the chin.

Response:

Hi Pork, Let them drink sand is right, hopefully their camels peed in it first. My son passed this on to me last night, http://www.joecartoon.com/pages/osamavideo/ I thought it was quite sick but the ending helps a bit… — Louise:o) http://pages.infinit.net/weez1959/ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – One year ago today, as events unfolded, we lost a few good homebrewers. Let’s all honor their lives by tipping a few of our best in their memory. Let the swing cap slap you in the chin as you pound one for America. That’s what homebrewers enjoy the most. Let’s all show the enemy that they can not and will not frighten us. We all have the homebrew and we will not be sharing it with them. Let them drink their sand. Pork, with the SWING-TOP slappy happy on the chin.

Response:

That sounds great. Now, do you have the balls to let it sit for a FULL year and enjoy it 09/11/03 ??? If you did, that would be AWESOME !!!!! Pork, thinking HE MIGHT wait until 03 to test his 02 brew.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – One year ago today, as events unfolded, we lost a few good homebrewers. Let’s all honor their lives by tipping a few of our best in their memory. Let the swing cap slap you in the chin as you pound one for America. That’s what homebrewers enjoy the most. Let’s all show the enemy that they can not and will not frighten us. We all have the homebrew and we will not be sharing it with them. Let them drink their sand. Pork, with the SWING-TOP slappy happy on the chin. My wife and I brewed a batch of the homebrew last night (09/11) – her choice – a red ale with 1# of cinnamon red hot candies – Reb Hot and Brew.

Response:

My wife and I brewed a batch of the homebrew last night (09/11) – her choice – a red ale with 1# of cinnamon red hot candies – Reb Hot and Brew.