Brewing Master

Question:

It is being widely reported in news here today that, in order to keep prices the same due to increased excise, several breweries are planning to reduce the alcohol content of beer from 4.9% to 4.7% – shock horror! — Tony Bailey Mercury World Travel Mercury Travel Books

Response:

It is being widely reported in news here today that, in order to keep prices the same due to increased excise, several breweries are planning to reduce the alcohol content of beer from 4.9% to 4.7% – shock horror!

Any beer under 5% is for children and the elderly!  Or Americans. Although I’ll admit to downing a few Hahn Lites…..

Response:

what’s your source mate – the smh.com.au makes no mention of it that i can see

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It is being widely reported in news here today that, in order to keep prices the same due to increased excise, several breweries are planning to reduce the alcohol content of beer from 4.9% to 4.7% – shock horror! — Tony Bailey Mercury World Travel Mercury Travel Books

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what’s your source mate – the smh.com.au makes no mention of it that i can see

I saw it here: http://www.news.com.au/common/story_page/0,4057,4690170%255E421,00.html Michelle – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It is being widely reported in news here today that, in order to keep prices the same due to increased excise, several breweries are planning to reduce the alcohol content of beer from 4.9% to 4.7% – shock horror! — Tony Bailey Mercury World Travel Mercury Travel Books

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Whilst undoubtedly under the effects of alcohol, Raffi Balmanoukian It is being widely reported in news here today that, in order to keep prices the same due to increased excise, several breweries are planning to reduce the alcohol content of beer from 4.9% to 4.7% – shock horror! Any beer under 5% is for children and the elderly!  Or Americans. Although I’ll admit to downing a few Hahn Lites…..

Hahn Premium Light and Cascade Premium Light are almost worth drinking purely for the taste – they are that good that you *might* *almost* drink them when you don’t have to worry about your BAC. Almost…… ===== Dave There are 10 types of people – those who understand binary and those who don’t.

Response:

It is being widely reported in news here today that, in order to keep prices the same due to increased excise, several breweries are planning to reduce the alcohol content of beer from 4.9% to 4.7% – shock horror! Any beer under 5% is for children and the elderly!  Or Americans.

Ha ha, American’s are lightweights!!!  I’m off to USA next year to see a mate who’s doing a college course out there.  Can’t wait to drink all those bloody frat boys under the table!!

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Any beer under 5% is for children and the elderly!  Or Americans. Ha ha, American’s are lightweights!!!  I’m off to USA next year to see a mate who’s doing a college course out there.  Can’t wait to drink all those bloody frat boys under the table!!

American beer is like making love in a canoe…f*cking pretty close to water. I love it when the sepps come up here (one bartender client tells Americans that Yank beer has to be purchased in American dollars…at par.  It’s astounding how many just nod and hand over the greenbacks…).  Big bikies will go into the pub bragging about how much beer they can drink…inevitably some 10-stone frostback will put them under the table. Have fun!

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Hahn Premium Light and Cascade Premium Light are almost worth drinking purely for the taste – they are that good that you *might* *almost* drink them when you don’t have to worry about your BAC. Almost……

I was thrilled and a little homesick to find Moose Juice (Moosehead beer) in a speciality store in Glenelg (at at extortionate price).  It’s brewed in Nova Scotia, so it’s just a local drop for us, but it’s magnificent stuff. I had to ask the proprietor, "who drinks it over here?"  Answer:  "You f*cking Canadians."

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It is being widely reported in news here today that, in order to keep prices the same due to increased excise, several breweries are planning to reduce the alcohol content of beer from 4.9% to 4.7% – shock horror! what’s your source mate – the smh.com.au makes no mention of it that i can see

It was reported on the ABC yesterday. miguel — Hit The Road! Photos and tales from around the world: http://travel.u.nu New mini photo-feature: Life in DC: http://travel.u.nu/dc/

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what’s your source mate – the smh.com.au makes no mention of it that i can see I saw it here: http://www.news.com.au/common/story_page/0,4057,4690170%255E421,00.html Michelle

Worst thing to happen to Australian brewing since Alan Bond!

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If you pissheads drink beer only for it’s alcoholic content, hy bother – why not just guzzle straight grain alxcohol with some sort of fizzy shit to cloak the taste? Beer isn’t about killing as many brain cells as you can in the shortest possible time.  This bevvy is much more subtle than that, be it light or king hit. Actually most of the more sophisticated brews these days are much lower in pure alcohol.   Besides the average ocker couldn’t tell the difference between 4.9 and 4.7.  They’re fingers don’t have decimal point options. david. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It is being widely reported in news here today that, in order to keep prices the same due to increased excise, several breweries are planning to reduce the alcohol content of beer from 4.9% to 4.7% – shock horror! — Tony Bailey Mercury World Travel Mercury Travel Books

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http://www.news.com.au/common/story_page/0,4057,4690170%255E421,00.html "The move comes as the cost of the most popular slabs of beer hover around $30, and follows almost a decade of steadily-rising prices." Odd comment. Nearly all beer that I see costs about $22 a slab.

In my slide lectures, I juxtapose Australian priorities, as evidenced by the size of headlines.  "New York in Chaos" or something similar on September 12 in around 2" headlines.  A couple months before, "Beer Prices Rise" in the Adelaide Advertiser, twice the size and above the fold…

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Whilst undoubtedly under the effects of alcohol, Craig Welch http://www.news.com.au/common/story_page/0,4057,4690170%255E421,00.html "The move comes as the cost of the most popular slabs of beer hover around $30, and follows almost a decade of steadily-rising prices." Odd comment. Nearly all beer that I see costs about $22 a slab.

Around $30 in Sydney, depending on whether there are 24, 28 or 30 to the slab. ===== Dave There are 10 types of people – those who understand binary and those who don’t.

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Whilst undoubtedly under the effects of alcohol, Craig Welch "The move comes as the cost of the most popular slabs of beer hover around $30, and follows almost a decade of steadily-rising prices." Odd comment. Nearly all beer that I see costs about $22 a slab. Around $30 in Sydney, depending on whether there are 24, 28 or 30 to the slab. There you go. I’ve never seen a slab that didn’t have 24 containers in it.

Happens a lot in Sydney – mostly they are 24 to a slab, AFAIK Tooheys New is the only one to have 28 (stubbies) to a slab, and then you get the blocks – 30 cans (NOT stubbies) put out by Tooheys and Carlton occasionally. Just today, the 30 can block was cheaper than the 24 stubbie slab of the same product, so it is obviously being subsidised by the brewery. ===== Dave There are 10 types of people – those who understand binary and those who don’t.

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Question:

Clone Brews, actually…. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – There are MANY great recipes in it, including Guinness, Harp, Duvel, Fuller’s ESB, etc.  As you might expect, there are a lot of great UK, and Belgian beers in it, but there are also many from less "beer famous" countries including france, mexico, african countries.  I highly recommend you get yourself a copy.  It kept me brewing for MONTHS. snip I am looking for an authentic Bass Ale recipe. I want to do an all grain, 5 gallon batch. Thanks in advance for any help….Gary I’ve just discovered this ng and assume from the above that we are talking about Dave Line’s "Brewing Beers Like Those You Buy".  I have a copy of this book and can confirm that it does indeed contain a BASS recipe.  Mail me for further info. — Cheers, Compo in Caithness.

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Clone Brews, actually…. <Snip I’ve just discovered this ng and assume from the above that we are talking about Dave Line’s "Brewing Beers Like Those You Buy".  I have a copy of this book and can confirm that it does indeed contain a BASS recipe.  Mail me for further info.

You can generally tell what side of the pond a poster is from by the beer books they’ve got. US is mostly Papazian and Clone Brews. Over here it’s mostly stuff by Graham Wheeler and the late Dave Lines. — Cyclops

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Question:

I’m just curious, what do Homebrewers do for a living (other than homebrew). I would tend to think that most have some sort of technical background. I am a Civil Engineer Vince

Response:

I’m just curious, what do Homebrewers do for a living (other than homebrew). I would tend to think that most have some sort of technical background. I am a Civil Engineer Vince

Me too! I don’t think it’s just technical. I suspect there are far fewer EE brewers than CE brewers. — Mark Recktenwald Stow, Ohio

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EE Colin T * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

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Remember that you’ll get skewed results in this group.  By definition your audience is only that crosssection of homebrewers who use computers a lot. Myself, I’m a geek for a living cheers, -Alan — — Alan McKay Small Site Integration  613-765-6843 (ESN 395) Nortel Networks Internal : http://zftzb00d/alanmckay/ All opinions expressed are my own.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m just curious, what do Homebrewers do for a living (other than homebrew). I would tend to think that most have some sort of technical background. I am a Civil Engineer Vince

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That is the other thing I have noticed, most homebrewers that I know are also computer savvy.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Remember that you’ll get skewed results in this group.  By definition your audience is only that crosssection of homebrewers who use computers a lot. Myself, I’m a geek for a living cheers, -Alan — — Alan McKay Small Site Integration  613-765-6843 (ESN 395) Nortel Networks Internal : http://zftzb00d/alanmckay/ All opinions expressed are my own. I’m just curious, what do Homebrewers do for a living (other than homebrew). I would tend to think that most have some sort of technical background. I am a Civil Engineer Vince

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 i’m a critical care rn.(and isn’t it wonderfull to hAVE access to sterile supplies and friends in the lab )

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Law student

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Systems Administrator – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m just curious, what do Homebrewers do for a living (other than homebrew). I would tend to think that most have some sort of technical background. I am a Civil Engineer Vince

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    I work in sales for a telecommunications company. My degree is in philosophy, but I’ve also studied music and EE. I’m a regular renaissance man, and I don’t mean one of those SCA flakes, either. (just a joke, folks, don’t get your chanmail in a bind…) Mike Fun

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m just curious, what do Homebrewers do for a living (other than homebrew). I would tend to think that most have some sort of technical background. I am a Civil Engineer Vince

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 i’m a critical care rn.(and isn’t it wonderfull to hAVE access to sterile supplies and friends in the lab )

  I’m an accounts payable clerk.  A friend who influenced me to get into home brewing is a critical care nurse.   Eric Nastav

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CPA Steven * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

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I’m just curious, what do Homebrewers do for a living (other than homebrew). I would tend to think that most have some sort of technical background. I am a Civil Engineer

Former grad student in history, now a database designer/manager. There’s a BIG homebrew/computer link.  There’s also a subset that’s also into cycling… — Andrew D. Ager     Chicago, IL andrew-ager at nwu dot edu

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Geophysics student. You will reach me at one of the following two accounts: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m just curious, what do Homebrewers do for a living (other than homebrew). I would tend to think that most have some sort of technical background. I am a Civil Engineer Vince

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Chemist by training, Environmental consultant by experience, Homemaker by fate. Brian Wurst Lombard, Illinois "Nature has formed you, desire has trained you, fortune has preserved you for this insanity." -Cicero Vince Mash wrote… I’m just curious, what do Homebrewers do for a living (other than homebrew). I would tend to think that most have some sort of technical background. I am a Civil Engineer

   http://www.newsfeeds.com       The Largest Usenet Servers in the World!

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Brewing Supplies Retailer (what else would you do with a Philosophy degree?)

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i’m a critical care rn.(and isn’t it wonderfull to hAVE access to sterile

supplies and friends in the lab )<< HA! I can relate to that!!… ex Respiratory Therapist <great access to tubing castoffs, little fittings; now a healthcare Human Resources Consultant… Jim

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Chemist by training, Environmental consultant by experience, Homemaker by fate. Brian Wurst Lombard, Illinois "Nature has formed you, desire has trained you, fortune has preserved you for this insanity." -Cicero Vince Mash wrote… I’m just curious, what do Homebrewers do for a living (other than homebrew). I would tend to think that most have some sort of technical background. I am a Civil Engineer

At our shop and brew club we probably have a greater proportion of engineering/software types than the general population, but we have a pretty eclectic mix: A bunch of teachers, some laywers, actors (this is LA after all), plumbers, carpenters, electricians, grad students in various fields, etc. etc. Thats whats great about brewing. Not to many other places you get such a wide variety of people (in both occupation and age) having a good time together. Its kind of cool to have friends with twenty years age difference on *either* side. — Fred Waltman Culver City Home Brewing Supply (Los Angeles area) www.brewsupply.com   *and*   www.LABeer.com

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Engineer – Agricultural and also Mechanical PE exam on Oct. 29.  Mucho Homebrew afterwards. Mike

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I’m just curious, what do Homebrewers do for a living (other than homebrew). I would tend to think that most have some sort of technical background. I am a Civil Engineer Vince

I’m a top gun, fighter pilot… oh yeah and a cowboy. The Real Robert A. Corny kegs $14.00 – Promash Brewing Software $19.95   http://www.calweb.com/~robertac

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I am a Nuclear Engineer.  I get to break Nuclear Reactors for a living! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m just curious, what do Homebrewers do for a living (other than homebrew). I would tend to think that most have some sort of technical background. I am a Civil Engineer Vince

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I am a Blue Collar Worker Skills include Construction, Cabinetmaker, Factoryworker, Landscaper, and Currently a Cook in a Resturaunt and Sports Bar ( If we last a Microbrewery next year and I will be the Brewmaster)

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I sell plastics. Check my company out at www.lnp.com Burp, -Dan – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m just curious, what do Homebrewers do for a living (other than homebrew). I would tend to think that most have some sort of technical background. I am a Civil Engineer Vince

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wife and I are professional crafts people – potters to be exact. * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

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hmmm, I was a pro Guitarist for most my life. Now I am a webmaster/senior programmer for a fortune 50 Computer wholeseller/retailer… C’ya! -Scott http://www.skotrat.com Skotrats Homebrew Beer Slut Page http://www.skotrat.com/skotrat/webboard Skotrats HomeBrew BBS http://www.skotrat.com/brc1.cfm Skotrats Brew Rat Chat * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

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 i’m a critical care rn.(and isn’t it wonderfull to hAVE access to  sterile supplies and friends in the lab )

I wouldn’t know, I don’t have any sterile friends ;o) Why qualify it, i don’t have friends …period. I sling bacteria for a living, and yes the sterile supplies do come in handy.

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Question:

I am looking to make my first brew with raspberries and would appreciate any recipes, tips, etc. Thanks in advance.

Without trying to sound flippant – put about 7 lbs of raspberries in your favorite light ale recipe and tweak the hop profile way down.  I made a wonderful strawberry blonde about 2 months ago – I’ll include the recipe here.  Substitute raspberries, and it should produce an outstanding brew….                            SUDS Recipe Report                        Page: 1    Category         :  Fruit Beer    Method           :  Full Mash    Starting Gravity :  1.049    Ending Gravity   :  1.012    Alcohol content  :  4.7%    Recipe Makes     :  5.0 gallons    Total Grain      :  9.00 lbs.    Color (srm)      : 13.5    Efficiency       :  75%    Hop IBUs         : 20.4 Malts/Sugars:   6.00 lb. American Two-Row   1.00 lb. American Crystal 30L   1.00 lb. American Victory   1.00 lb. Cara-Pils Dextrine Hops:  0.25 oz. Yakima Magnum   14.0% 60 min  0.50 oz. Cascade          4.1% 20 min  0.50 oz. Cascade          4.1%  5 min Boil temperature of water: 212F Grain Starting Temperature: 80F Desired Grain/Water Ratio: 1 quarts/pound Strike Water:  2.25 gallons of water at 172F First Mash Temperature: 153F Water Absorbed by Grain:  0.90 gal Water Evaporated during boil:  0.75 gal Wort Left in Brewpot:  0.33 gal Add  4.73 gal of water to yield  5.0 gal of wort Rack to secondary with 7# of well crushed strawberries – I pasturized mine at 170 for 15 minutes.  Got major pectin haze, but hey, I brew for my own benefit!  After the berries ferment out, rack off to a tertiery for a week or so.  I also ‘lagered’ it to try to drop out the haze – didn’t work, but it tasted great.  The beer has a _lot_ of body – I designed it that way. I used the yakima hops because they were in the freezer.  Use whatever you have for bittering, just remember to adjust it down – yakima is a rather robust hop.  I used the cascade to get a bit of citrus, and a cultured Chimay yeast for charater – the yeast’s profile set off the strawberry very nicely. You could use just about anything, of course.  1056 is a perennial fave. Rich Moore

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: I am looking to make my first brew with raspberries and would appreciate : any recipes, tips, etc. Here’s how I make my Rasberry Bragot (5gal batch): Ingredients:    Standard beer recepe[5# light dutch dry malt,                         2oz. brewing hops, 1oz finishing hops]                 5# Honey                 6# frozen rasberries                 2 packs London Ale yeast                 Tap water to 5 gals Heat 2gals water. When reaches a boil, remove from heat and mix in malt. Return to heat.  When it reaches a boil again, remove from heat and add honey.  Mix well!!  Return to heat.  When wort reaches boil, add brewing hops.  Keep at a LOW boil for 1 hour.  Add finishing hops 1 minute before end of hour.  Remove heat after 1 hour and let hops steep for 5-10 mins.  At end of steep time, remove hops and add water to 4 gallons. Place thermometer in wort.  When wort’s temperature is around 170F, put frozen berries into 6 gallon plastic bucket, and then pour the still hot wort into the bucket ont op of the frozen berries.  Add water until a few inches short of the top of the bucket(Leave plenty of room in top of bucket for kruzen, there will be a lot!).  When wort reaches about 90F, add yeast. Seal bucket (lid should have an airlock). As soon as airlock activity has stopped, screen out berries and syphon wort into glass carboy.  When wort clears(about 2 weeks in secondary), it’s time to bottle.  If wort hasn’t cleared by two weeks in secondary, rack wort into another carboy, wait for it to clear and then bottle.  Add 1cup corn sugar to wort at bottling for carbonation. Let age for 2 months.  There is a tartness that will mellow with time. jim

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Question:

: I just finished brewing Old Bavarian Dunkles Weissbier (from the book : Classic Beer Styles Series 7:  German Wheat Beer).  The book calls for 4 : pounds of dark malt extract, 4 pounds of Wheat malt extract and 0.8g of : Hallertauer hops.  The book says I should get an original gravity reading : of 1.050.  I got a gravity reading of 1.020.   : Did this guy (author) have too many homebrews and was therefor unable to : read the dial?  Or am I overlooking something? Try stirring your wort, sounds like an incomplete mix -chad : Matt Wilson                                   : Carleton University                           : Erotic Politics III : www homepage http://chat.carleton.ca/~mwilson

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I just finished brewing Old Bavarian Dunkles Weissbier (from the book Classic Beer Styles Series 7:  German Wheat Beer).  The book calls for 4 pounds of dark malt extract, 4 pounds of Wheat malt extract and 0.8g of Hallertauer hops.  The book says I should get an original gravity reading of 1.050.  I got a gravity reading of 1.020.   Did this guy (author) have too many homebrews and was therefor unable to read the dial?  Or am I overlooking something? Matt Wilson                                     Carleton University                             Erotic Politics III www homepage http://chat.carleton.ca/~mwilson

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I just finished brewing Old Bavarian Dunkles Weissbier (from the book Classic Beer Styles Series 7:  German Wheat Beer).  The book calls for 4 pounds of dark malt extract, 4 pounds of Wheat malt extract and 0.8g of Hallertauer hops.  The book says I should get an original gravity reading of 1.050.  I got a gravity reading of 1.020.   Did this guy (author) have too many homebrews and was therefor unable to read the dial?  Or am I overlooking something?

Assuming this is a 5 gallon batch, 1.050 is about what I’d expect with that much malt extract, and 1.020 is *way* low. Are you sure your wort was well mixed, so that the SG was uniform throughout the batch?  Many people boil their wort in part of their water, then add cold water to the boiled wort to bring the batch up to their final volume.  Unless you mix very well after adding the extra water, you can get stratification where part of the wort is very concentrated, and the other part is very dilute.  Could  that be what you’re seeing? I would suggest swirling or shaking your fermenter to remix, then try another reading. — dave whitman             "The opinions expressed are those of the                           They made me say that.  Really.

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Question:

Now, I know that mead isn’t beer but there’s no other newsgroup besides these two which could give me the answer to this question. I want to try some commercially available mead. I live in Dallas and the Whole Foods Market here is said to have it at times but I don’t know what brands to look out for. Can you guys help?

To be honest, there arn’t any good commercial meads out there today. There was a mead available in OK/TX, but I havn’t been able to find it for some time.  It’s called Kedem Mead.  It’s from Israel.  The best answer is, make your own.  If you are game, I have several dozen good recipies. Good hunting.      Barat —      Barat

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Sure . . look no further than Dallas for your Mead.  The first Meadery in the SouthWest (I think…) will soon be open.

No, it’s not the first!  The Rocky Mountain Meadery in Palisade, Colorado opened last spring.  Their phone is 970 464-7899.  They make straight mead for dry to sweet and fruit flavored mead.

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Sure . . look no further than Dallas for your Mead.  The first Meadery in the SouthWest (I think…) will soon be open. No, it’s not the first!  The Rocky Mountain Meadery in Palisade, Colorado opened last spring.  Their phone is 970 464-7899.  They make straight mead for dry to sweet and fruit flavored mead.

Anyone want to send me $100,000 so I can open a meadery in Mead, Colorado? No?  Darn. Hugh — Can you guess whose opinion that was?|            J.Mass.Bar Assoc., April 1992

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        The Chaucer’s Mead mentioned is from Bargetto’s Winery in Soquel, Calif. (or maybe Capitola).  I saw it for sale with spice bags to make warm, spiced mead. —         Robert Teeter           |       "Ripeness is all."         San Jose                |               — Shakespeare

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The Wyncoop brewery in Denver, CO makes a SPECTACULAR mead (I liked it, anyway). – Craig — 1

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I missed the original post and it looks like this thread is concentrating on what’s available in the Western US, but here’s my two-cents from Upstate NY. There’s a small meadery in Cambridge, NY (near Manchester, VT) called The Meadery.  They sell mead, honey, beeswax products, and herbs on-site.  They have honeys from a variety of flowers.  The meads are (I believe) all still meads.  One is flavored with hops (very strange), others have fruits and/or spices and range from very sweet to dry finish.  Since the owners are of Scandinavian (Norwegian?) origin, the meads are named on a Norse theme.  e.g. Thor’s Raspberry Mead.  I was pleasantly surprised to find one or two of their meads on the shelf of a local liquor store next to mead from Bunratty Castle in Ireland (the only other commercial mead I’ve ever had). Bob Waterfall, Troy, NY, USA

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        The Chaucer’s Mead mentioned is from Bargetto’s Winery in Soquel, Calif. (or maybe Capitola).  I saw it for sale with spice bags to make warm, spiced mead.

This is a very nasty mead.      Barat —      Barat

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Mead is available from the Lakewoods vineyard in the Fingerlakes region of New York. Their mead is quite good. like a semi-dry white. they also have fruit meads. Lakewood Vineyerds 4024 State Route 14 Watkins Glen, NY 14891 (607) 535-9252 They can ship half cases UPS to the world Wassail!!!

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Mead is available from the Lakewoods vineyard in the Fingerlakes region of New York

Easley Winery here in Indianapolis has long produced mead.  (Their actual vineyards are south of here.)  Their phone # is 317-636-4516; the address is 205 N. College Avenue, Indianapolis, IN  46202.

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Now, I know that mead isn’t beer but there’s no other newsgroup besides these two which could give me the answer to this question. I want to try some commercially available mead. I live in Dallas and the Whole Foods Market here is said to have it at times but I don’t know what brands to look out for. Can you guys help?

A local wine retailer here in Raleigh carries a mead from California and I intend to buy it whenever they get it back in stock. I think is called "Chaucer’s Honey Mead". Not sure of spelling, but that is pretty close to the correct name. As I say, I’ve never tried it, but the hombrew store owner here recommended it.

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I know of a commercial meadery in upstate New York; I think it is called "The Meadery" and is in Greenwich or Cambridge. Both are in the 518 area code, so you could call information for their number.  I have stopped in in-person and bought mead and I know they do mail order.  Also carry many honey and beeswax products, and they have a neat active bee frame inside the tasting room – the bees enter via a pipe to/from the outside. Good luck, Margaret Steinbugler ("just one of the guys") – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Now, I know that mead isn’t beer but there’s no other newsgroup besides these two which could give me the answer to this question. I want to try some commercially available mead. I live in Dallas and the Whole Foods Market here is said to have it at times but I don’t know what brands to look out for. Can you guys help? alex

Response:

Now, I know that mead isn’t beer but there’s no other newsgroup besides these two which could give me the answer to this question. I want to try some commercially available mead. I live in Dallas and the Whole Foods Market here is said to have it at times but I don’t know what brands to look out for. Can you guys help?

Sure . . look no further than Dallas for your Mead.  The first Meadery in the SouthWest (I think…) will soon be open.  The Golden Grail Meadery located 3000 Main St (Deep Elm area) 214-741-9500.  Jim makes awsome mead. Don

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Now, I know that mead isn’t beer but there’s no other newsgroup besides these two which could give me the answer to this question. I want to try some commercially available mead. I live in Dallas and the Whole Foods Market here is said to have it at times but I don’t know what brands to look out for. Can you guys help? alex — <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< < If I were to tell you that everything I say is a lie, and then if I were to turn around and say that what I just told you is the truth, would you believe me? <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< <

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Question:

I will be bottling my very first ale on Wednesday, and am considering making a lager for my next batch. I have access to a spare refrigerator, but I am looking for a few good recipes to get started. Does anyone have some they would be glad to share. Keep them simple as I am a beginning brewer. I am hoping to make a good moderately hoppy German style lager. Any other information that will assist in making this first attempt successful would be appreciated. TIA STEVE Success is a personal experience.

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I will be bottling my very first ale on Wednesday, and am considering making a lager for my next batch. I have access to a spare refrigerator, but I am looking for a few good recipes to get started. Does anyone have some they would be glad to share. Keep them simple as I am a beginning brewer. I am hoping to make a good moderately hoppy German style lager.

Lager recipies are exquisitly simple: a base of the highest quality Pilsner malt and specialty malts ranging from a few percent to half or more of the total grist depending on the type of lager being brewed. For a German Pils 90-95% Pilsner malt and 5-10% caramel malt with enough Hallertau or Saaz to get to around 40 IBU (moderate to my taste) will do as a starting point. The bear with lager brewing is the process. You must buy and read Greg Noonan’s "Brewing Lager Beer" or some other book or books or have a long session with an experienced lager brewer. If by "beginning brewer" you mean you are just starting out with kits put the lager project on hold for a while and enjoy your ales while you aquire the knowledge and equipment (refrigeration is essential) you need to do lagers. AJ

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I will be bottling my very first ale on Wednesday, and am considering making a lager for my next batch. I have access to a spare refrigerator, but I am looking for a few good recipes to get started. Does anyone have some they would be glad to share. Keep them simple as I am a beginning brewer. I am hoping to make a good moderately hoppy German style lager. Any other information that will assist in making this first attempt successful would be appreciated. TIA STEVE Success is a personal experience.

If you’re a beginner and you want to make a lager you must be pretty ambitious. If you must use malt extract stick with dry, and at least use a good starter culture (2 quarts) of a decent (liquid) lager yeast, otherwise you might be a little disappointed with the results. If you want more details, email me.     Tracy

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Question:

As I am new to this: what is Hot Side Aeration? Can someone please explain? — Feddo Wouters Nijmegen The Netherlands

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As I am new to this: what is Hot Side Aeration? Can someone please explain?

HSA is the exposure of hot wort to air.  Under such contitions, some compounds in the wort will undergo oxidation that after fermentation produce a wet cardboard like flavor. — Phil

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –  I go one step further and wonder if anyone can tell me whether it shouldn’t be done, and if not, why.  I don’t have a wort cooler; I do extract brews with a 50% boil, and then dilute before pitching with cold water.  All the evidence I have heard suggests that cool-down time is the period when you are most likely to get infections in your beer.   Accordingly, lately I have taken to pouring the hot wort over 8lb. of good-quality commercial ice, and then diluting with cold water: it’s ready for pitching almost immediately. Pouring hot wort can lead to hot side aeration (HSA) which produces cardboard like flavors.  Ice can contain microbes.  What constitutes good quality commercial ice and how confident are you that it is microbe free?  A wort chiller will only cost you about $25 to make. It is an investment well worth making. — Phil Has anybody in this group ever experienced the cardboard tast and then be able to trace it to HSA in their brew process?

Good question. I guess maybe someone has, but I have not. I’ve been brewing for about fifteen years and when I began I used the crudest of methods such that even beginners would cringe. I dumped the hot wort into a fermenter partly filled with cold water for many years before I ever even heard of HSA. Only once have I tasted the dreaded wet-cardboard flavor, and I attributed that to using some old LME that was discounted by the supplier to unload it (last time I went for a "bargain" in brew supplies). My technique has come a long way since then (bought my first chiller around ‘88) and I hear and read lots about how bad HSA can be but I have never experienced any problems with it myself, even back when I routinely tempted fate. [snip] (When  I was an extract brewer,  I’d always add my hot wort to cold water, and never noticed the "cardboard" taste..) comments?? nimbus

Me too. I think the potential for HSA to cause noticeable off-flavors is over-emphasized (unnecessarily) in this respect.     tracy

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Has anybody in this group ever experienced the cardboard tast and then be able to trace it to HSA in their brew process? I know that some commercial breweries use a whirlpool following their boil, and in the process of the transfer to the whirlpool the hot wort enters the whirlpool vessel above the liquid level tangential to the vessel, essentially spraying down the inside wall. This gets the liquid whirling, but it seems like HSA would result. Yet the product tastes fine.

Do they purge the air out of the whirlpool vessel with nitrogen before introducing hot wort? — Phil

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Has anybody in this group ever experienced the cardboard tast and then be able to trace it to HSA in their brew process? I know that some commercial breweries use a whirlpool following their boil, and in the process of the transfer to the whirlpool the hot wort enters the whirlpool vessel above the liquid level tangential to the vessel, essentially spraying down the inside wall. This gets the liquid whirling, but it seems like HSA would result. Yet the product tastes fine. Do they purge the air out of the whirlpool vessel with nitrogen before introducing hot wort? — Phil

No purging is done; so there must be HSA, or at least the potential for it. I was surprised to see this done without any concern after the discussions of HSA I’ve seen on this group and in some brewing magazines.  A friend of mine has the Declerk (sp?) book, which I think is where  I saw a similar whirlpool design illustrated and discussed, so maybe  I’ll take a look at it. The brewer I asked about it said, yeah,  I guess it might have some effect. That’s what gives our beer its distinctive flavor. (however he was somewhat joking when he made that comment. Any flavor I notice certainly isn’t objectionable).. nimbus

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –  I go one step further and wonder if anyone can tell me whether it shouldn’t be done, and if not, why.  I don’t have a wort cooler; I do extract brews with a 50% boil, and then dilute before pitching with cold water.  All the evidence I have heard suggests that cool-down time is the period when you are most likely to get infections in your beer.   Accordingly, lately I have taken to pouring the hot wort over 8lb. of good-quality commercial ice, and then diluting with cold water: it’s ready for pitching almost immediately. Pouring hot wort can lead to hot side aeration (HSA) which produces cardboard like flavors.  Ice can contain microbes.  What constitutes good quality commercial ice and how confident are you that it is microbe free?  A wort chiller will only cost you about $25 to make. It is an investment well worth making. — Phil

Has anybody in this group ever experienced the cardboard tast and then be able to trace it to HSA in their brew process? I know that some commercial breweries use a whirlpool following their boil, and in the process of the transfer to the whirlpool the hot wort enters the whirlpool vessel above the liquid level tangential to the vessel, essentially spraying down the inside wall. This gets the liquid whirling, but it seems like HSA would result. Yet the product tastes fine. I’ve even seen whirlpool designs in one of the classic brewing texts that look like this. (When  I was an extract brewer,  I’d always add my hot wort to cold water, and never noticed the "cardboard" taste..) comments?? nimbus

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 I go one step further and wonder if anyone can tell me whether it shouldn’t be done, and if not, why.  I don’t have a wort cooler; I do extract brews with a 50% boil, and then dilute before pitching with cold water.  All the evidence I have heard suggests that cool-down time is the period when you are most likely to get infections in your beer.   Accordingly, lately I have taken to pouring the hot wort over 8lb. of good-quality commercial ice, and then diluting with cold water: it’s ready for pitching almost immediately.

Pouring hot wort can lead to hot side aeration (HSA) which produces cardboard like flavors.  Ice can contain microbes.  What constitutes good quality commercial ice and how confident are you that it is microbe free?  A wort chiller will only cost you about $25 to make. It is an investment well worth making. — Phil

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Hi all, Had a discussion with a friend the other day about why his beers never turned out good.  I suggested a few things but had a mental block on the controversy about dumping your hot wort directly into the cold water in the primary and the problems it can cause (ie. off flavours etc.). Any one care to comment? Thanks. Stu —  _ / ._ _|_ _.._ o _      Stu Miller – Moderator of LIMS mailing list

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controversy about dumping your hot wort directly into the cold water in the primary and the problems it can cause (ie. off flavours etc.). Any one care to comment?

Silly question. In the winter we bury the primary with the sterile water in the snow, then we dump the  hot wort into the secondary with water near freezing. I have not noticed any off tastes, but thats just me! paulc

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  I go one step further and wonder if anyone can tell me whether it shouldn’t be done, and if not, why.  I don’t have a wort cooler; I do extract brews with a 50% boil, and then dilute before pitching with cold water.  All the evidence I have heard suggests that cool-down time is the period when you are most likely to get infections in your beer.   Accordingly, lately I have taken to pouring the hot wort over 8lb. of good-quality commercial ice, and then diluting with cold water: it’s ready for pitching almost immediately.   I should add that I have not had any troubles with it — all such batches have worked out fine.  Am I accumulating a karmic debt? 2718 162nd Ave. SE                               Bellevue, WA 98008-5427

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Question:

 Sp These are from various contributors.  I’ve tried to acknowledge the  Sp source, either at the beginning or end of each sub-list. Here’s another one:  Big Basin Brewing Company, Boulder Creek, California 95006 (410) 338-1907, (800) 509-BREW.  It’s run by Doug Henslee, a friendly and knowledgeable *brewer.*  I visit him at his shop in Boulder Creek for everything I need for all-grain brewing, including some off-beat rye and wheat beers I’ve made.  Anyway, I know he also has a mail-order business.   His prices are good, and I like visiting the store.  I don’t know his exact address (sorry).  It’s on Highway 9 in "downtown" Boulder Creek — which is *very* small.  So far I’ve tried four stores on "the Peninsula" in the Bay Area, and I like BBBC, and its service, the best. … Catch the Blue Wave! ___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.11

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Hello fellow r.c.b.’ers and r.c.w.’ers!

(deleted) I have come up with the idea of compiling the Home Brew Yellow Pages to solve this problem. The basic purpose is to list suppliers around the U.S. (by area code) for use by the r.c.b. and r.c.w. communities.  If there is enough interest, I might expand it to other countries such as Canada and U.K.

(deleted) This seems like a good idea.  However, some participant in this group already maintains a list of suppliers-with-"800"-numbers.  I can’t recall who it is, but the list appears here from time to time; perhaps you and the author should put your heads together on this.  Also, be aware that this won’t be a one-time project, but an ongoing effort as stores open, close, and change their offerings.  Seems like a bit of a project, but if you have the time and energy to put into maintaining such a list, it would be a good net.resource to have. A couple of notes on the information format: 1) it would be good to know whether or not the store does mail-order; 2) the "hours" field should include a time zone. Gaetano, I’ll mail you my supplier’s info as soon as my computer gets off the phone so I can call to check their hours. Good luck with the compilation! -Chris

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These are from various contributors.  I’ve tried to acknowledge the source, either at the beginning or end of each sub-list. <PRE The Brewery             NY      800-762-2560    10-6 M-Sa 12-4 Su EST   MC/VS * The Brewer’s Coop 800-451-6348                                    * Alternative Beverage    NC 800-365-2739                                    * Williams Brewing        VA 800-759-6025                                    * Red Bank Brewing Supply NJ 800-779-7507                                    * Northeast Brewers Sply  RI      800-352-9001    2-9 M-Th 2-6 Fr 10-5 Sa * The Cellar              WA 800-342-1871                                    * New York Homebrew       NY 800-966-2739                                    * Hearts Homebrew Supply  FL      800-392-8322    9-11 M-Th 9-12p Fr-Sa   * Alternative Garden Sply IL 800-444-2837                                    * The Home Brewery        MO 800-321-2739                                    * Heartland Hydr & HB     IL 800-354-4769                                    MC/VS * Great Fermentations     CA 800-542-2520                                    * GFSR                    CA 800-544-1867                                    * BrewHaus                TN 800-638-2437                                    * Great Lakes Brew Supply NY 800-859-4527                                    * The Grape & Granary     OH 800-695-9870                                    * Beer & Wine Hobby       MA 800-523-5423                                    * The Vineyard            MA 800-626-2371                                    MC/VS * The Homebrewers Store           800-827-2739 Helpful Not Cat for aWhile * Sebastion Brewers Sply  FL 800-780-7837                                    * James Page Brewery      MN 800-347-4042                                    * Quality Homebrew        WI 800-236-6258                                    * The Brew Place          WI 800-847-6721                                    * — Kevin M. Hardee                      UUCP: …uunet!fozzy!khardee Alcatel Network Systems, Inc. Richardson, TX                       PHONE:  (214) 996-6112 In today’s HBD, you asked about mail order sources.  I shop at aplace here in Austin which does more mail order than local business. (Iactually worked there on and off all year depending on Lynne’s needs.  Thestore is called St. Patrick’s of Texas, and their E-mail address is                          12922 Staton Dr.                          Austin, TX  78727.                          Tel (512) 832-9045. Lynne O’Connor is the owner.  She is a very nice and helpful person,and she has some of the best prices in the country on many items (ofcourse, shipping costs depend on where you live, but you should at least geta catalog regardless of where you are.  Best of luck to you and hopeyou get the car running again soon. As far as disclaimers go, I like the owner of St. Pat’s, I do sometimes work there so I guess I’m not impartial… I have a supply house that I can recommend very highly, in terms of quality, value (very low prices and shipping), customer service and efficiency. The company is very small yet they produce a very informative and complete catalogue.  Enough!  Here’ sthe info:              William’s Brewing              2594 Nicholson St.              P.O. Box 2195              San Leandro, CA              94577 P.S. I am in no way connected with William’sBrewing—Blah-Blah-Blah.                             Taylor Standlee         Department of Germanic & Slavic Languages & Literatures            Phone: (805)-893-2131        FAX: (805)-893-2374          Actually, being at Argonne, you have two really good          local choices so that you can avoid mail-order.          The first is the place where I buy my stuff. My          supplier, Greg Lawrence, operates a shop out of his     basement. He keeps a goodstock of grains and extracts, and I do     over ninety percent of my businesswith him. He makes a good     attempt to match his competitors’ prices(and has been quite     successful at it, might I add.)          The address/phone is:          Lil’ Olde Winemaking Shoppe          4 S 245 Wiltshire Lane          Sugar Grove, IL 60554          (708) 557-2523          Just give him a call and ask for a catalog.          Another good choice is Al Korzonas’ Sheaf and Vine          in Countryside.  Al rents space in the Main Street Deli and     Liquor Store.  Hedoesn’t have as much space as Greg does, so his     in-store selection isnot as good, but he is a very knowledgeable     brewer.          Again, I prefer dealing with Greg because he is closer,          his prices are lower, and he’s a good buddy of mine, but Al     will not steer you wrong. You can rest assured that with either you     will get good stuff for a good price.                                                      Cheers,                                                      Phillip The Frozen Wort  (413) 773-5920 Great Fermentations of Santa Rosa (800) 544-1867 Northeast Brewers Supply (800) 352-9001 Williams Brewing (510) 895-2739 Brewhaus  (800) 638-2437 Somethings Brewing (802) 660-9007 American Brewmaster (919) 850-0095 Kraus (816) 254-0242 James Page Brewery (store) (800) 347-4042 Call the above and get their catalogs.  I have dealt with them all and found them to be reputable and also have a decent selection. Larry L.                       American Homebrewers Association                                  PO Box 1679                            Boulder, CO  80306-1678                                (303) 447-0816 Mail order homebrew shops (retail – organized by region) List updated 11/1/92                                NORTHEAST U.S. Barleymalt & Vine        Beer & Wine Hobby          Beer & Winemaking Supp. 4 Corey Street           180 New Boston St. Rear    154 King Street W. Roxbury, MA  02132    Woburn, MA  01801 Northhampton, MA  01060 (800) 666-7026                                      (800) 473-BREW Berkshire Homebrew Co.   Bierhaus International     Boston Brewin’ 151 Park Avenue          3723 W. 12th Street        75 Maple Street Dalton, MA  01226        Erie, PA  16505            Danvers, MA 01923 (413) 684-4414           (814) 833-7747             (800) 866-BREW The Brewery              Bryant Brewing             Country Wines 11 Market Street         RD1 Box 262                3333 Babcock Blvd. Potsdam, NY  13676       Austin, PA  16720          Pittsburgh, PA  15237 (800) 762-2560                                      (412) 366-0151 Crossfire                DP Homebrew Supply         Feen’s Country Living PO Box 530W              PO Box 37                  Twin City Mall Somersville, CT  06072   Mohegan Lake, NY  10647    Leominster, MA  01453 (203) 623-6537                                      (800) 922-8490 Marc C. Fritz            The Frozen Wort            GSB Homebrew Supply 18 Main Street           PO Box 947                 20 Bell Avenue Potsdam, NY  13676       Greenfield, MA  01302      Blue Point, NY  11715 (800) 762-2560           (413) 773-5920             (516) 363-2704 The Happy Troll          Hayes Homebrewing          The Home Brewery 21 E. Main Street        208A W. Hamilton #117      118 Fort Lee Road Cambridge, NY  12816     State College, PA  16801   Teaneck, NJ 07666 (800) 735-BREW                                      (800) 426-BREW Home Sweet Homebrew      Hometown Homebrew          Jasper’s Homebrew Supp. 2008 Sansom Street       PO Box 74                  116 Page Road Philadelphia, PA  19103  Kulpmont, PA  17834        Litchfield, NH  03051                          (800) 547-7709             (800) FOR-BREW The Mad Capper           Maine Homebrewing Supply   Martin’s PO Box 310126            PO Box 202                 2230 Friendship Street Newington, CT  06131     Gorham, ME  04038          Philadelphia, PA  19149 (203) 667-7662           (207) 773-6858 The Modern Brewer        Mountaintop Brewing        New York Homebrew, Inc. 2304 Massachesettes Ave  RR9 Box 21D                38 Cherry Lane Cambridge, MA 02140      Mountaintop, PA  18707     Floral Park, NY  11001 (800) SEND-ALE           (717) 474-6668             (800) YOO-BREW Northeast Brewers Supp.  RCA Distributors           Red Bank Homebrewers 140 Point Judith #C-45   10 North Street            67 Monmouth Street Narragansett, RI  02882  North Walpole, NH  03609   Red Bank, NJ  07701 (800) 352-9001           (603) 445-2018             (908) 842-7507 S&R Homebrewing          SECT Brewing Supply        Something’s Brewing PO Box 5544              20 Attawan Road            196 Battery Street Endicott, NY  13763      Niantic, CT  06357         Burlington, VT  05401 (607) 748-1877           (203) 739-3609             (802) 660-9007 Terrapin Brewers         The Vineyard               The Whip & Spoon 5B Winkler Lane          PO Box 80                  161 Commercial St. #567 LaPlata, MD  20646       Upton, MA  01568           Portland, ME  04108                          (800) 626-2371             (800) 937-9447 Wine Hobby USA           Bottom of the Barrel       The Brewery Shop 2306 W. Newport Pike     280 E. Dominick St.        830 Varick Street Stanton, DE  19804       Rome, NY  13440            Utica, NY 13502 (302) 998-8303           (800) 437-3451             (800) 765-6228 Homebrewer’s Connection  Kedco 198 Smith Road           564 Smith Street Spring Valley, NY  10977 Farmingdale LI, NY  11735 (800) BREW-123           (800) 654-9988                                 SOUTHEAST US Alternative Beverage     American Brewmaster        Birmingham Homebrew 114-O Freeland Lane      2940-6Z Trawick Rd.        1917 29th Ave. S. Charlotte, NC  28217     Raleigh, NC  27604         Birmingham, AL 35209 (800) 365-2739           (919) 850-0095             (800) BUY-MALT Black Fox Meadery        The Brewhaus               The

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Response:

Hello fellow r.c.b.’ers and r.c.w.’ers! Have you noticed one of the most frequently asked questions that is not handled by the r.c.b. and r.c.w. faqs is "Where is the nearest supply?"   I have come up with the idea of compiling the Home Brew Yellow Pages to solve this problem. The basic purpose is to list suppliers around the U.S. (by area code) for use by the r.c.b. and r.c.w. communities.  If there is enough interest, I might expand it to other countries such as Canada and U.K. To get started, however, I need your help.  Please submit to information is requested: Name Address City, State, Zip Phone (Voice, Order line, FAX etc.) E-mail (Internet or other service) Hours Proprietor’s name Payment methods (other than cash i.e. credit cards) Other pertinent info (such as "Carboy distributor" etc.) Thanks in advance. — DISCLAIMER: The views expressed are my |             Some people like cupcakes. own.  As if anybody else would take    |    But I, for one, care less for them. credit for them!                       |         -"The Muffin Man", Frank Zappa

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Question:

   ice-water)  Set your regulator for ~15PSI and hook it up to the keg.    When it stops hissing, shake the daylights out of the keg, and wait for    it to stop hissing again.      Repeat lots of times until not much hissing occurs. Or for a slower (but easier to regulate in my opinion) method simply set the regulator to ~20 or so psi and let it sit for two days.  This method has given me the most mileage.    Be sure you get the kegs CLEAN before you do anything or you will have    Dr. Pepper-homebrew or something :-{‘ Moreover, may I suggest that if the keg was ever used for soda pop that you throw away the O-ring and replace it with a new one.  You never know where that ring has been and you certainly want it sanitary. Enjoy, —   Mark Alston                   "U.S. out of North America"   PGP Public key available via finger

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I just got some 5-gal syrup kegs.  What is the best way to carbonate them?  Can I just mix sugar and let that prime the keg, if so, how much corn sugar would be needed.  If I went the co2 route, what all items would I need for a 3-keg setup? Larry Loe — Rivercity Matrix  –  +1 (210) 561-9815/21

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I just got some 5-gal syrup kegs.  What is the best way to carbonate them?  Can I just mix sugar and let that prime the keg, if so, how much corn sugar would be needed.  If I went the co2 route, what all items would I need for a 3-keg setup? Larry Loe

Well there are two basic ways of carbonating beer in soda kegs: Add sugar (about the same as if you were bottling, think of it as one BIG bottle!) Or, you can pressurize it with CO2 and force-carbonate it.  There are formulas for it but the basics from  memory  are: get the beer in the keg, and COLD (~32 F or as close as you reasonably can, i.e. put the keg in a trash can of ice-water)  Set your regulator for ~15PSI and hook it up to the keg. When it stops hissing, shake the daylights out of the keg, and wait for it to stop hissing again.   Repeat lots of times until not much hissing occurs. Drink. Whichever way you go you will need at a minimum: 1 CO2 tank ( a SMALL 5lb one will do) 1 CO2 regulator (I prefer 2 gauge models, others will disagree) 2 quick connects for the keg – 1 gas and one liquid 1 tap hose for CO2 – keg hose for keg – tap that setup can be shared among all your kegs, so no need to duplicate, unless you are going to serve from more than one at a time. Be sure you get the kegs CLEAN before you do anything or you will have Dr. Pepper-homebrew or something :-{‘ — Kevin Farlee       | DISCLAIMER                   | Stupid questions are                    | my own, and not my employers | to stupid mistakes

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